Day 33 bis London

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy.  Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well.  Sockets to power or charge abound  The trains keep to the timetable.  And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away. 

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view.  And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up.  Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible. 

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month,  I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common.  From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle.  And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837.  Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place.  This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road.  And a lot is on roads, with or without houses.  And, at times, the signage was very good.  And at times it wasn't. 

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.  

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance. 

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania.  His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s.  He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism.  Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation. 

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings.  But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.  

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks.  Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits. 

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.




Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

  • Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
  • Sunday, 23 September  
  • Orio Litta to Piacenza   24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
  • 814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
  •   24 km for today
  • 838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30.  I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.  

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together. 

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino.   Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong.  I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.  

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage  town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza. 

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home.  There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment. 

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry.  There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside,  a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none..  I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery.  As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business.  No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.  

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon,  I decide not to continue to Lucca.  Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza.  So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.

Day 33 bis London

Day 33 bis London I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy.  Generally the carriages up relatively new, and t...