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day 35 Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d'Arda - day 2 for 2026

Day 35 - day 2 for 2026
Tuesday 28 April
Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d’Arda - 13 km today
851 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
864 km on my Via Francigena (26 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in the town square at 07h and are soon off. She has her mops well trained and I follow behind. She signals the turns well beforehand and Via Francigena stickers confirm. At 07h there is quite a bit of traffic on these back country roads and we stand on the edge (and even off when there is passing traffic). When walking in country areas at home I use the one finger salute and get a good response. Here I use a wave of the palm and are getting a very good response.

Today is, like Monday, as flat as a pancake. But to my right I can see the Pennine range. At this place it reminds me of the Tararua Range when coming down from Woodville to Greytown – there but not menacing – I take several photos to remind me.

There were two major items on the walk today – both were river crossings.

The first was quite benign: slow flowing clear shallow with a good base – easy peasy but still take care.

The second was a different kettle of fish:: faster with a sticky muddy base and muddy approaches. I was very pleased to have Nadine with me.

We were in Fiorenzuola d’Arda by 10h30 with a few micro pauses. After some orange drinks we inspect the cathedral. I then find my hostel and check-in. Then stay with Nadine until her check-some two hours later.

Time for a kip, a search for dried fruit and a lie down.

Eileen comes into my room. She is an Australian from Sydney walking with her husbsnd. They started at Aosta several weeks sgo. She invites me to join them for a meal. Another pilgrim, Lassie is what I hear, from Norway. The only place open is a pizerria and between we demolish two and drink each. On our return thirst again strikes us and we find a bar near the cathedral before returning to our rooms

And so to my bed.

day 34 Piacenza to Cadeo - day 1 for 2026

Monday, 27 April
Piacenza to Cadeo - 13 km today
838 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
851 km on my Via Francigena (13 km for 2026)

I am back on the road at last

To get here from London included attendance at the ANZAC Day service at 5 am at Hyde Park Corner, a barbie at the home of my London based son, his partner and my grandson before going to Gatwick for the 2 hour flight to Milan. The train to Piacenza (my restart point) had me seeing the sights I missed in 2023.

My accommodation is but 300 metres from the Via Francigena route to Rome. This is quite new with a good set up and E24 for the night.

Monday up, breakfasted and off just after 07h. As always, with the sun to the south, way finding can be check and check and check again. This time I had a major land based feature, the railway line always on my left both on the map and in reality.

After 6 km the only choice was the major SS9 highway: one lane in each direction and a barely adequate shoulder with some rough to use when large trucks rolled past. But well before 10h I arrive at Pontenure for morning coffee, church visit, note a new (2026) memorial “Ai Caduti “ (to the fallen), lunch break, encounter a French pilgrim (who is staying at the same hostel as me tonight), afternoon coffee before setting off with the sun behind me. The last 4 kilometres are also on the SS9 and takes a while. I stop for every big truck to pass. But a I arrive, get a key to the hostel and encounter, not unexpectedly, the French woman(Nadine from Loire Valley) from Pontenure town square. We agree to have a meal together. We don’t have a language in common so we use a translation app. She is from the lower Loire valley and knows of Le Puy-en-Velay in the upper Loire valley. The meal ends.

And so to our own beds.

day 33 bis London

In late February 2026 I booked air travel to London for a few days after Easter and bought travel insurance for UK, France, Switzerland and Italy.

On 17 March I started my last training walk for at least 14 km into Hutt central and possibly another 4 km to Petone. One km before Hutt central I stumbled. The bumps and scratches did my pride no good. However, the small team that instantly gathered to get me upright included two registered nurses: from their very professional concerns they called an ambulance resulting in a good check over at Hutt Hospital emergency department before sending me home. A week later I consulted my GP. After a check over, she advised going to London and “testing the water” so to speak and then make decision whether or not to go to Italy.

The journey up to Shanghai was uneventful. The journey from Shanghai to London was a sign of the times. On two previous trips througgh China, the "grest circle flight psth was used. This took me over, for exampoe, Ekatenburg and near Moscow before the descent into London. This time the flight wsd directly east across China and the 'Stans, then across the Caspian Sea about 100 km north of Iran to join whst the flight path would be if coming Saudi Arabia. And then heading for London.

In the two weeks since I have completed 10 of the 24 stages of the 244 km London Outer Orbital Path (LOOP) and a 20 km stage of Thames Path from Twickenham to Putney.

With some confidence I have booked a return to Piacenza, my last stop in 2023.

Like my efforts on LOOP, my daily stages between hostels in Italy will be less than 20 km.

I am now “resting’ in Hounslow for two days and taking in the local activities.

On Saturday, with my London based son, I plan to attend the ANZAC dawn parade at the NZ memorial at Hyde Park Corner.

Written at Hounslow on a sunny Thursday afternoon.

Day 33 bis Wellington

Now in early 2026: Looking back on my adventures in August and September 2023, I was content with the progress I had made down into Italy but disapointed a heavy cold prevented my going up to the Great Saint Bernard Pass. I was relaxed about the decision at the time and are looking how to include that into my 2026 adventures.

During 2024 and 2025 I kept up my regular routine of day walks and kept noting my stamina was holding back the distances achieved. I consulted the very helpful world wide community at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community. The response was very supportive and suggested I aim for not more than 20 km a day and in reality often less from one suitable hostel/backpack to the next. My indicative 2026 trip log from Piacenza to Sienna is built accordingly.

About 10 days ago I booked a flight (in early April) to London via Shangahi Pudong. I have yet to book a flight to Milan. And then by train to my start point Piacencza.

Then two days ago the US started "a war to end all wars", in the middle east at least!

Looking at the map, my flight from Shanghai should, literally, fly well above and north of any difficulties. But ...

In 2025, with 84 day trips around the Wellington region, I completed just over 1,400 km. I noted my speed when walking had dropped from a high of about 5.5 kph to around 5.1 (age does weary and the years do condemn). To hekp give me the best I consulted a personal trainer I first met in late 2023: the brief assist with stamina and tone my legs. After a week (five to go) the pace is about right and I am feeling very positive.

It is early morning as I write this, so I will rise and shine.

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy. Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well. Sockets to power or charge abound The trains keep to the timetable. And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away.

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view. And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up. Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible.

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month, I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common. From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle. And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837. Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place. This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road. And a lot is on roads, with or without houses. And, at times, the signage was very good. And at times it wasn't.

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance.

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania. His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s. He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism. Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation.

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings. But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks. Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits.

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.

Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
Sunday, 23 September
Orio Litta to Piacenza 24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
24 km for today
838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30. I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together.

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino. Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong. I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza.

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home. There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment.

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry. There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside, a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none.. I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery. As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business. No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon, I decide not to continue to Lucca. Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza. So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.

Day 32 - Pavia to Orio Litta

Day 32 - day 11 for 2023
Satuday, 22 September
Pavia to Orio Litta 36 km today - bus 14 - walking 22
778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023
36 km for today
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023)

l rise early so I can leave by 07h30.

The bus to Belgioioso leaves at 07h40 and I don't wish to miss it - the next is at 11h00.

I get off about 08h30 and look for a cash point and underway just after 09h.

I am on the roads because the official route (not the one created by Archbishop Sigeric) goes backwards and forwards and adding considerable distance in the process.

I am surprised by the many small retail shops selling cold water and similar. But I can feel my strength ebbing.

As today's journey nears its end there is a guy standing on my side of the r9as and waving at me. I stop: he has two questions -

Why aren't I on the official route? My answer - Archbishop Sigeric, no doubt keen to get back to Canterbury, would not have taken the now official route.

What does a Scotsman wear under the kilt? My answer - not telling.

I've almost got over the head cold acquired at Montreux more than a week ago. And I'm waking during the night and not getting back to sleep as much as I would like.

At last I come under a railway arch and there is thr church for Orio Litta less than 2 km. But the path is over 2.5 km to go.

I struggle with this information and the church never seems to get closer. But then I am there.

I goto to the vigil Eucharist for the Sunday.

And begin looking for accommodation for Sunday night in Piacenza.

And so to bed.

Day 31 - Tromello to Pavia

Day 31 - day 10 for 2023
Friday, 22 September
Tremello to Pavia
751 km to Day 29 (239 km for 2023)
27 km for today all by train
778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023)

l want to be on the road early today as its a longish distance and the days are getting warm again.

My hostess has left a nice variety in the hostel kitchen. The whole of the top floor is devoted to the hostel with four beds. And I have been the, b only resident this past evening.

I over imbibe and am out the door just after sunrise.

I have gone about 30 minutes when I notice a railway level crossing. I reach for my camera: it's not in my shoulder bag nor in my pockets. I double check and start heading back to the village.

Conundrum:

I can't knock on the front door as its about 20 metres from the locked gate.

cannot ring.

I walk about the town and notice both the local train station and the local police offce.

I enter the police station and between them, they recognize the property and within 30 minutes my phone and I are united

The second part of the conundrum is can I reach Pavia, the next town and where I have booked a bed for the night.

I choose what I am sure Archbishop Sigeric would have chosen, the current version of a fast horse. One thing I have noticed about European railway systems: there is almost no noise of buffering when a train goes over points, turnouts, call then what you will.

I am at the accommodation, about 2km to the east of the rail station in Pavia by 13h and spend the afternoon looking around the central city.. A lot is relatively new. The old is the University and the churches. What seems quite new is a statue of Pavia: you can do your own research.

For the Saturday I have decided to bus about 10 km to Belgioioso and walk my more direct version of 20 km to Orio Litta.

At Belgioioso I gave trouble locating the bank and its ATM (or BancoMat). So, I go into the cade across the busy road. Coming out after coffee and a Pastry, I can see the signs clearly - when walking past on a 600 mm wide footpath, the detail get lost in the need to look at my feet and not take in the bigger picture.

The distance is about 20 km and I am surprised how many refreshment stops there are.

While making progress, the heat is, for me, very tiring.

The official path and I coincide at a bridge slightly more than 2 km to my destination. The whole time the destination is clearly visible, but my energy is fast fading.

I make the hostel and made very welcome. I get a wash of the days clothes, go to a vigil eucharist and a pasta with tomato sauce and basil.

Before sleep overtakes me, I look at the accommodation and fire off some emails.

And so to bed.

day 30 - Robbio to Tremello

Day 30 - day 9 for 2023
Thursday, 21 September
Robbio to Tremello
723 km to Day 29 (211 km for 2023)
28 km for today
751 km on my Via Francigena (239 km for 2023)

I rise about 06h and leave the Community hostel about 07h30, having heated and eaten a cachet of Rizzoli integrale.

The route to Mortara will follow the Via Francigena route almost exactly. Simple explanation: it is shorter than the road by about 6 km or about 90 fewer minutes walking.

Surprise: most of the road is sealed and the unsealed bits are not rough, so the going is good.

On both sides I see crops of not great height. I am reminded of wheat, but this is much shorter. And there is an abundance on water reticulation channels.

About 09h is Nicorvo and a café and the first coffee of the day. Near the counter are vacuum sealed packs of rice. Looking at the owner I point at the packs and then sweep my hand around. He nods expressively, and sweeps his hand around also. On leaving the village, I go into the chapel and say the morning office.

The flat road entices me back and the town of Albanese comes up about 10h30. Time for a quick cold drink and back on the sealed road to Mortara.

The roads are generally good and the traffic generally light. So, I practice my wave and get many good responses.

Then someone stops and, using a translation app, asks if I need assistance. I tell him what I am doing and the reaction and he is content.

Mortara comes up before 12 noon and I am soon seated with a large cappuccino and brioche marmelittia.

Here I look at accommodation for tonight in Tremello and ring one. We talk in simple terms, I am booked in and please be here by 16h. It is 12 km and I have about 3 hours.

Before setting off a bottle of Moretti is called for.

I make good progress, a car stops: the occupants want to know about the kilt and offer me a ride to Tremello. We chat on the way and I arrive.

From the works of art on the walls, the lady owner has some skills. The property is named The House of the Nocciolo.

I do another wash, of today's clothes, and have a meal.

My choice of restart, Vercelli, could not have been better.

And so to bed.

Day 29 - Vercelli to Robbio

Day 29 - day 8 for 2023
Wedneday, 20 September
Vercelli to Robbio
705 km to Day 28
18 km for today
723 km on my Via Francigena (211 km for 2023)

I rise about 04h and leave the Combo hostel at about 05h walking Via XX September to Torino Porta Nuova train station.

I arrive about 30 minutes later and soon find my departure platform. Over three travel days, I have found TrenItalia runs on a lot of passenger trust. While I have an e-ticket for each stage, I have never been asked for it.

The train I have selected on arrival, actually departs at 05h54 - my ticket was for the departure at 06h54. I arrive at Vercelli at 07h and I follow the VF route on my map to the eastern outskirts of town and the last and only open café so far.

My route initially is on road, then an outback agricultural service road. I find the largish stones of this route, as anywhere, hard to walk on. After about 12 km I encounter the town of Palestro (site of a largish battle in 1859 between Austria and a combined Sardinian (Torino) and French force - commemorated in the town square and on leaving eastwards).

To my destination for the day, Robbio, I walk the remainder on the road. I do my customary salute to oncoming motorists and have a very high response rate.

I come to the town council offices as they have a donativo apartment with five beds. I am the only resident so far today and the log book suggest 2 or 3 users a week.

I wash a top, the front of my kilt and some smalls and put them on the drying frame outside. The warm light breeze should do the trick.

After a brief look around, I repair to the bar across the road for a birra, brioche and trumpet ice cream.

And to write these trip notes.

After a brief rest find a pizzeria that does other stuff, so have a salad entirely of sea food.

At the end tell the owner the Maui and the fish story. He seemed suitably impressed, maybe as he was of an age to have young children and looking for fresh things.

And so to bed.

Day 28 bis - transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino

Day 28 bis - day 7 for 2023
Saturday, 16 to Tuesday, 19 September 2023
transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino
705 km to Day 28
0 km for this transfer
705 km on my Via Francigena

Saturday, 16 September - Saint-Maurice to Milano

The Abbey hostel provides a simple breakfast of coffee, bread with confiture and cheese which all six of us enjoy.

Three are moving on today with the couple staying another night.

Today I start the process of bypassing, for now, the 2,000 metre climb over 5 days to the Great Saint-Bernard Pass and several days down the other side.

I have arranged to sit in the reception room of the Abbey during the morning. I have decided to spend the time getting my trip notes up to date and almost succeed. I reward myself with a coffee and girella.

I am on the platform for almost an hour before departure and see a variety of train operations. A Portugese man and I talk for about 5 minutes about the kilt and what we are each doing before he and his Brazilian wife go to their train.

My train goes across the bottom half of Switzerland, starting in Geneva with Brig at the other end. There we change to a train that takes us through the 1921 Simplon Tunnel to Domodossla, by bus to Stresa and then a stop start train (for stations and other events) to Milano.

During this journey we change from announcements in French, German and Italian and from relative consideration for others to gentle pushing and queue hopping by young and old alike.

As the day moves on I keep adding a layer. My head cold with a slight temperature has not improved. And the 90 minute wait (20 was scheduled) in line at the Domodossla bus station has not helped. On arrival at Milano at about 21h I feel like a mental and physical cot case. And I have yet to get to the hostel. It is about 2km walking or 2 metro subway stops and 500 metres walking. Getting to the metro platform is a major task in itself.

At the hostel, the reception staff are very gracious and considerate. In particular, without prompting, the receptionist hand prints the things I need to know. I am so grateful and thank him most warmly. And I relax.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Sunday, 17 September - walk about Milano

I have my short list and ask the reception for others. I soon have a list, again with hand printed notes for the Metro.

In daylight and with some sleep I navigate the Metro with a bit more ease and am soon at Duomo (or Cathedral). I enter the side reserved for prayer, to say the morning office and, before a painting of Mary and Jesus as a toddler, light three candles - for my youngest son Timothy (2002), for Cathy (2014) and for Sue (2023).

Victor Emmanuel II arcade is a must walk through to see the people seeing the people.

Coffee calls and so does the Museum for Teatro di la Scala. The museum has some items of interest. But most fascinating for me is the opportunity to stand in the dozen or so boxes open as part of the visit and try to imagine 8 people seated in pairs viewing the performance. And a scale model shows the audience have but a small part of the complex. The large orchestra pit, the large sloping stage, most of which can descend well below street level to present spectacular moments, the flying area above the stage, the massive area behind the stage, the various dressing rooms above - it just goes on and on. Built in 1778 and going strong nearly 250 years later.

Back to Milano today and walking I note a restaurant doing a grand trade and wait in the queue for a table for one. Pasta caarbonnara is good and so is the salad.

I continue walking and arrive back at Garibaldi Station. Now to find Navgli, the area for the last canal in Milano. I find two: the suburb and park then the canal itself with people all over the bridge to the open air market street beyond. While people do push in, there is also just as much standing back.

And so to bed for this lay day

Monday, 18 September - Milano to Torino

I make porridge breakfast and leave about 08h30. it will take well under 30 minutes to get to the station. About the same to have a coffee and my train has come up on the board with its platform number. Within 30 minutes we are stopped, at Milano Centosa. During what will be a 3 hour wait I go for a walk outside the station, pass a farmacia and buy some Paracetamol. An hour later the six passengers remaining are told what to do. As a group we stay together, including me and a Lithuanian, until we are on the train to Torino.

I walk the 2 km to my hostel passing normal late afternoon activities in central Torino. The hostel is large and well appointed. I have a meat and veg meal which is enjoyable.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Tuesday, 19 September - Torino

Up early to start this four day section and have breakfast.

Away into Torino, passing the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Reale, and Mole, the worlds highest brick building and former synagogue and coffee and muffin. Down via Giuseppe Verdi (being refurbished for pedestrians) and the reasonably fast flowing Po River especially as it comes over a Weir at this point.

Encounter memorials to Victor Emmanuel I, King of Sardinia and Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy.

(Some day the composer Giuseppe Verdi started life with some other surname. And later changed to Verdi to show loyalty to Victor Emmanuel Rex and Duce di Italia (King and Leader of Italy).

I see a Decatholon store and go in to see why North Americans on the Santiago forum think so highly of it. Walking shoes are of interest and I see something to follow up on when the rime is right.

I look about two weeks ahead from my restart point of Vercelli and feel reinvigorated. And the head cold is easing off and there are several trains for early Wednesday morning.

And so to bed for this lay day.