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day 44 - Aulla to Sarzana - day 11 for 2026

day 44 - day 11 for 2026
Thursday, 7 May 2026
Aulla to Sarzana - 18 km today – by bus
1 011 km on my Via Francigena before today
18 km for today
1 029 km on my Via Francigena (188 km for 2026)

The trip notes from Gronze.com for this sector say ‘one of the hardest stages of the Via Francigena takes place”. Having yesterday had my hardest day ever, I am not kern to have another. Nadine and I discuss this over morning cappuccino. She us keen and after exploring the start of a possible road alternative, we mutually abandon that idea. Nadine turns right up a steep road and I return back into Aulla to seek a bus or train solution.

I can see bus stops along an arterial road through the town and note they are all on the other side of my Greenway (former railway). And a local confirms this. After walking the length of the village the nearest bus stop is on a fast flowing road with a vey narrow grass shoulder. A mum with a 3 year old and an 18 month old join me. The bus comes, stops in the middle of the single lane and ee clamber aboard. It eventually stops where others are lined up. A bus turns up on time and we clamber aboard using the wide door that is normally the exit. And a few minutes later we are almost back where I started. Except now there are several buses waiting for simething. We all scramble off and the driver waves away any payment. A younger guy seeks out the bus that will drop me at Sarzana, a little over 12 km away by road.. This is lical bus si avariett if set diwn and puck ups. And I see another braided river – wide with much gravel washed out from the nearby hills – just not much water flow at present.

I am dropped at Sarzana central and find it is market day. Mainly womens clothing vlfilling the piazza and surrounding streets.

I make my way to the parish church that operates the ostello – it is close to the camino path. It is a relatively new building (less than 60 years okd is my guess. I “camp” there for over an hour and read the morning office for the past week. I find an out of the way place to put my pack in plain view and go to survey the town. The only notable find is the church of S Andrew – while centuries old it has been ‘tidied up” (my words) with limited art work. For me it was a pleasure to spend a few monents there.

A light lunch and a but more wanderibg around and getting lost helps pass the time.

Also keeping in touch with Nadine. In one message she describes crawling up on hands and knees to reach the summit. A funsk message tells me the road she will enter the town. I go to greet her only to find work for a new bridge means she will have a diversion.

I retire to the church, find the ostello and check in. And Nadine arrives. We natter for a while and learn her journey today was 21 km – certainly not a walk in the park And compares with the 17.5 km in the Cronze trip notes for this stage.

We agree to buy food at a Conrad super market (much like a smaller New World). For €6.58 we dine each like a king and queen with avocado, fine carrot slices, baby tomatoes, sluced tasty cheese, a hamburger pattie each and citron flavoured YoMo each.

And so to our own beds.

The days from Friday to Tuesday: if I described them as hard, I had not been properly prepared. Today was a short distance but by far was the hardest day I’ve ever had. We left at 07h and had a straightforward starting bit. But from then until after 12 noon we were in forest the whole time. That was the good news. The bad news is that we were traipsing from one valley to another up forest tracks filled with water and stones of all shapes snd sizes. Plus it was raining almost continuosly. Fed up after nearly five hours of slog we took to the roads and reached the northern end of Aulla and found a café for a cold drink and a chocolate brioche.

The hostel is found and there are six of us. One couple is cycling and started ar Cassio this morning. By comparison ee started from Cassio on Sunday morning.

Looking ahead we note the 18 km tomorrow is similar to today – through otherwise untouched bush / forest. We will find another way.

And so to our own beds.

day 43 - Filetto to Aulla - day 10 in 2026

day 43 - day 10 for 2026
Wednesday, 6 May 2026
Filetto to Aulla - 14 km today
997 km on my Via Francigena before today
14 km for today
1 011 km on my Via Francigena (170 km for 2026)

The hostel is found and there are six of us. One couple is cycling and started ar Cassio this morning. By comparison ee started from Cassio on Sunday morning.

Looking ahead we note the 18 km tomorrow is similar to today – through otherwise untouched bush / forest. We will find another way.

And so to our own beds.

day 42 - Pontremoli to Burgo di Filetto - day 9 for 2026

Day 42 - day 9 for 2026
Tuesday, 5 May 2026
Pontremoli to Burgo di Filetto - 18 km today
979 km on my Via Francigena before today
18 km for today
997 km on my Via Francigena (161 km for 2026)

In the chat at Pontremoli we were told that the 30 km or so to Aulla would be hard and afterwards Via Francigena becomes easier. The chat about today was right, in a way. There is always what seem to be gratuitous deviations. Some can be explained when we are taken up a steep path with many largish stones of varying sizes to a chapel, dedicated to the annunciation to Mary by the Archangel Gabriel of her pregnancy with a reredos in a 16th century style, which is locked. Many others can be understood as wanting to keep pilgrims away from main roads that motor vehicles and cyclists may find a nuisance. Today’s 18 km can be explained by that consideration. As I write the height is report as a tad above 200 m above sea level (asl). On our deviations towards the Apennines heights of around 400 m asl were noted.

The rain stopped just before 10h. We have a second break at Filateria about 11h and agree to carry on. We climb one hill and return, almost to the main road (SS62) and then go up another before reaching Burgo di Filetto about 14h This is an enclosed town with central road west to east and two piazza. We find the B&B that Nadine has booked on line. We check in. Still damp clothes are swapped and we rest until 19h.

The pizzeria is like a diamond waiting to be discovered. We enter just before 20h and are amongst the first arrivals. Over our evening meal, Nadine and I discuss today. She is quite clear that, despite the early rain for about two hours, it was a good day. We completed 18 km and I had used very little water. Nadine says she has travelled in Italy several times and on one trip their car was the hotel.

We return well after 21h and find the water heaters are on. Joy, we can now be certain our damp clothes will be dry by morning.

And so to our own beds.

day 41 - Berceto to Pontremoli - day 8 for 2026

Day 41 - day 8 for 2026
Monday, 4 May 2026
Berceto to Pontremoli - 28 km today
951 km on my Via Francigena before
28 km for today
979 km on my Via Francigena (143 km for 2026)

Today was going to be hard: from 840 m asl up to 1,041 m asl then down to 300 m asl on rough tracks. Both Nadine and I knew this would be impossible for us. And I am sure Sigeric would not disapprove as he had arranged for a taxi to meet us in the square at Berceton.

We decamped from the hostel at 07h. I looked around the corridors near our room. I suspect it had been either a residential school or seminary to train young men for the oriest hood. Now adorning some nearby walls were some well executed memories of an event in 2019 for young people from Hungary, Czech Republic, Russia and a few others.

And we repair to Da Romano (who gave us pizza the night before) and find a lively mob. Cappuccino to start. As we have almost 4 hours before we go to the square, we exchange details of our families and photos that are on our phones. I go for a walk in the nearby park and notice a womsn with a baby. I ask (in English) if she has a camera and may I take a photo of the two of them. She seems grateful for the opportunity and it is done.

We meet the taxi driver who says we will stop at the pass between the hills, about 6 km on, for photos. First a sign just before announcing 1041 m slm (sur le mare) and then at the pass itself. We take some steps for better viewing points snd photos of both sides of the pass. It is 20 km of a steep winding road with several roadworks. I look across the valley to the verdant growth and where the Via Francigena track will have several walkers and remember we had been told it is quite rugged. The advice in one advisory is expect to take the best part of the day. There is no phone coverage: in the event of some disabling accident ...

We pay the driver and make our way to our hostel. The instructions are that it “At the entrance, in the Castello del Piagnaro”. We walk up the wide uneven stony psth to the entrance. After check in we are taken up a sloping path, through and arched tunnel into a courtyard and told our rooms are at the top of a set of stone staircase. We settle in and Nadine suggests we meet at 5 pm to explore the city and find a meal.

At 5 pm we gather and make our way back down the stone stairs and paths to a square. We don’t know it yet but every thing we need will be close by. The doors to a large church are open and we enter. There is enough light to be safe but not quite enough to appreciate the many works of art and there is a lot. Unlike the church at Berceto with round Roman pillars, here the columns are more elaborately decorated in a restrained Roccoco style with light blue colouring. Back outside Nadine sees a tower thinking it might be a church: it is but now used for secular performances. Back over our second bridge with a sign saying destroyed on 25 April 1945 and restored in 1947. With the first date I am reminded of a poster I had seen two days before at Medesano advertising an event on 25 April 2026 commemorating the end of the war that day in 1945, “81 years ago”.

We continue our walk about and cross another bridge over another river and see they merge just down stream from this point. Echoes of the River Taro at Fornovo two days before: both rivers have many largish boulders on both banks and there is much stone in the light water flow. With the exception of a few shops on one corner we are amongst houses. We have been walking, slowly for almost two hours and it is time to find a meal. Nadine searches for possibles but either they are just bars or are closed. We ffind Trattoris di Norina down a long enclosed corridor: it is open but not taking order unti 7:30. Returning to the square, two places that looked decidedly closed just after 5 pm are now alive and pumping. One just does cocktails and up market finger food while the other offers beer and nibbles: we sit down.

We return to Tratorria di Norina and get a warm welcome. Also joining us is a guy (of my age) from the Netherlands. He has good English and some French and we three talk as we eat. He wants to know why I come to Europe to walk. For me that is easy: i have walked for eight days, covered almost 150 km, seen many things and talked with many people and found food during the day and a bed at night and can expect to walk another 550 km to Rome. This not something I could even contemplate in New Zealand. He nicely persists and trot out the Ed Hilary saying “I did because it was there!”

We are finished in due course and return to the Castello, agreeing to leave at 7 tomorrow.

And so to our own beds.

footnote

Sigeric was elected Archbishop of Canterbury and, as was the practice then and now, went to see the Roman pope to be given his badge of office, a pallio. His 80 day return journey was documented at time and forms a basis for the Via Francigena route that Nadine and I and many others we have encountered so far. Needless to say, Sigeric and his entourage would have use of the expressways of the day. In many cases those route form the basis of todays roads used by cars. So walkers on Via Francigena have what is left over.

day 40 - Cassio to Berceto - day 7 for 2026

Day 40 - day 7 for 2026
Sunday, 3 May 2026
Cassio to Berceto - 11 km today
940 km on my Via Francigena
11 km for today
951 km on my Via Francigena (115 km for 2026)

At 11 km this was expected to be a walk in the park. It turned out to be anything but.

Nadine and I agreed on a 07h start. Just before we set off, we take a photo of the far hills from the same spot we took a photo of the sun about to set behind the same hills.

We are off and I note our altitude is 840 metres above sea level (840 m asl).

We do not break any records for the 3 km to Cavazolla. Here the path leaves the road and enters a forest. The path has been well used by heavy vehicles and is deeply rutted with wster from the rains many days before adding an interesting feature. Our heads are downward looking. We catch up with a couple that had entered the forest a few minutes before us. We all ponder which of the branches ahead we should take. It is then ee notice we are well of route. We retrace our steps and after about 500 metres notice a very steep track to our left with a large Via Francigena sign pointing up.

Even in the Tararua mountains I have not encountered anything so steep. We rise from 760 m asl to over 900 m asl covering 1 km of distance emerging through a village to keep on rising. The pain continues. We rise just over 100 m of elevation but along narrow tracks with rubble generously strewn about making it hard for me to keep my balance.

A feature of this route is the many times we are taken up a hillock – I measure msny of them at over 1000 m asl. I have been this high only three times before – twice in the Tararua’s and once in the Pyrenees when crossing from France into Spain. Is is late Spring so the conditions are OK.

We find our hostel for the night and begin the wind down. I note we are 850 m asl and in the valley to the north, about 10 km away and only 200 m asl is the River Taro we crossed two afternoon ago on the entrance to Fornovo di Tsro.

We look for a meal about 19h (7pm) although it is Sunday and find Da Romano and a selection of about 20 pizza to choose from. We now have room mate who today has walked the 34 km from Fornovo and tomorrow will cross over the pass at 1100 m asl and begin the descent into Pontremoli, some 28 km all up.

Nadine and I decide to taxi to Pontremoli on Monday.

And so to our own beds.

day 39 - Fornovo de Taro to Cassio - day 6 for 2026

Day 39 - day 6 for 2026
Saturday, 2 May 2026
Fornovo di Taro to Cassio - 20 km today
920 km on my Via Francigena
20 km for today
940 km on my Via Francigena (102 km for 2026)

As there is much elevation gain (climbing) today we agree to set of at 06h30. We soon regret this as we pass a display telling, among other things the temperature: it is 6.0c.

We choose to take the road alternative as it avoids a straight up climb, only to come down the other side of the hill to meet the road we are on. The road is good with occasional traffic. As cars here drive on their right we normally walk on our left facing oncoming traffic, except we walk on the right (outer side of the curve) for a left hand bend.

About 10h we are Sivizzano and asking locals about accommodation. We had planned to stop for the night about 6 km further on. But current advise is there is no now accommodation there. We continue up the steep hill – we pause and the couple with the light gear arrive a few moments later – they had started 2 hours later so walking at twice our speed.

We continue up and take another pause. About 5 minutes latter a small FIAT looking like a mini stops and offers us a ride beyond our intention.

We are very grateful and accept. Cassio is a hidden gem of sorts. If just passing through you will see the 3 or 4 commercial endeavours. Hidden in a parallel street is flat limestone pavers and neat and tidy houses that are well presented. The hostel manager arrives and we check-in, get washing done, read books, arrange for Sunday night’s accommodation at Berceto and wait for a restaurant to open at 19h.

And so to our own beds.

day 38 - Mendesano to Fornovo di Taro - day 5 for 3026

Day 38 - day 5 for 2026
Friday, 1 May 2026 (May Dsy and a public holiday)
Medesano to Fornovo di Taro - 12 km today
908 km on my Via Francigena
12 km for today
920 km on my Via Francigena (82 km for 2026)

I rise at 06h and note that Richard and Eileen have already left.

Nadine messages to say she has set off from her stopping point at 06h30.

I pack and leave the hostel by about 07h and go to a nearby bar and coffee lounge, catch up with the news then walk to the EuroSpin (a largish Woolworths) at the far end if the village. My task is to find an adhesive to more or less permanently hold two pieces of my trekking pole together. They have nothing but suggest the “Chinese” shop closer to the village centre. The owner knows exactly what I need and shows me a variety of “feet” for someone’s poles. Continuing back towards the café I see another shop has just opened. I show the salesman my problem and hd shows me a tube of Uhu Glue. I retire to the steps outside thd hostel and make my repairs.

Now Nadine messages to say she is about 2 km away from Medesano. I walk slowly and we meet up. Coming back through Medesano we stop for a coffee.

We restart and find ourselves on a flat path that is well maintained for 6 km to the town of Felegara, where we stop for a bottle of water frizzante each.

The path towards Felegara in wide, flat and well used. After Felegara it passes through “bush” which gives shade from the sun.

Rested we take a path alongside a very wide river which we cannot see until we pass under a railway bridge. The banks are very far apart and the river bed is mainly gravel of mixed sizes and a few water courses making their way through. I am immediately reminded of the many braided rivers that come out of the southern alps across the Canterbury plain. And I recall reading that there are few braided rivers outside of Aotearoa-New Zealand. The source of this river (the Taro) is the nearby Appennine mountain range.

We are soon at the shared path bridge that leads across into Fornovo and the hostel for the night.

At the hostel we meet a couple that have walked from Fidenza (about 34 km) and on Saturday intend to walk to Berceto (about 34 km). I note they have very light-weight packs – wet-weather outers and not much else. They say their other gear is transported to them.

Nadine and I look for a meal and find an upper market pizza house with sit down clientele.

And so to bed.

day 37 - Fidenza to Mondesano - dsy 4 for 2026

Day 37 - day 4 for 2026
Thursday, 30 April
Fidenza to Mendesona – 22 km today by bus – no walking
886 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
908 km on my Via Francigena (70 km for 2026)

I have arranged for a 06h breakfast. I arrive at 05h45 and all is ready.

Nadine and I meet at the café we first encountered when we arrived at Fidenza yesterday. As the distance tomorrow is challenging for me we have agreed to stay in touch. But ee first walk to Fidenza Cathedral as it is part of the route and then walk about 3 km to the end the town. Nadine carries on and I return to the railway station to check out travel options.

The simplest is a bus to Mendesano, leaving at 13h20.

I fill in the near 5 hour wait by lounging in a series of café followed by a light lunch.

I now camp at the bus stop from 12h30 to see how things work. I check with another, local traveller that I am at the right place snd have the right ticket – he confirms. I check the buses as they arrive – do they have my route number and destination – nothing. A lsrge number of secondary students turn up and occupy their bus. Then I notice my friend race for a bus and talks with the driver then beckons me forward. Solely for school kids, I am ushered on.

About 40 minutes later the driver indicates my stop is coming up - I profusely thank him as I alight. I check my bearings and I am less than 100 metres from the parish hostel for tonight.

There to greet me are Eileen and Richard from two nights ago and in due course the parishioner on duty for today arrives snd checks us in.

In the meantime Nadine arrived at her hostel about 10 km further back.

I am sure Eileen and Richard will have a meal sussed in this biggish town.

And so to bed.

day 36 Fiorenzula d'Arda to Fidenza - day 3 for 2026

day 36 - day 3 for 2026
Wednesday, 29 April
Fiorenzuola d’Arda to Fidenza – 22 km today
864 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
886 km on my Via Francigena (48 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in front of the Cathedral at 07h and are off. Again she has her maps well trained and I follow behind. About 10 minutes later Nadine stumbles on the uneven paving blocks. No cuts or abrasions and she soon recovers – we set off lentement (slowly).

Today is again fields but with a difference – some are bare, some have long shallow runs for about 100 metres, some are having water pumped into these runnels, some have shoots about 100 mm high and others have growth beyond a metre. My guess is to stagger the effort for both irrigation drawdown and planting now in Spring and for cultivation in Autumn.

Our walking rate matches our years and I am content. Despite being well into the country side our first stop after 7 km for a mid morning break comes on the bright side of 09h We encounter 1 couple leaving as we arrive and a second couple arrive as we leave. So six of us underway and there was a couple leaving the cathedral area well before our departure time. So eight knowns so far.

Shortly before our lunch stop a relative youngster catches us. This is Lassie (as I heard his name, from Norway. We exchange pleasantries, including his departure time of 08h45, before he quickly disappears, as it seems, into the distance.

Lunch at Castione Marchesi had a promise of goodness as at least two restaurants are shown on the map, but it is not to be. We do find a bake house that does ginormous pizza – one just orders the size you want cut off. The manager does us proud and set up a table and two chairs out of the sun ans it is 12h30. We have done OK for 15 km.

When we are done and ready to push-off it is 12h15. The heat of the day is getting to us both and we stop for a 30 minute siesta in a shaded place. The heat is slowing us both down and we find reasons to stop under trees to check our maps against the Via Francigena signs.

At about 15h30 we arrive at a cafe and enjoy a made on the spot orange juice and “frizzante” water before going to our respective lodgings.

And so to bed.

day 35 Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d'Arda - day 2 for 2026

Day 35 - day 2 for 2026
Tuesday 28 April
Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d’Arda - 13 km today
851 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
864 km on my Via Francigena (26 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in the town square at 07h and are soon off. She has her mops well trained and I follow behind. She signals the turns well beforehand and Via Francigena stickers confirm. At 07h there is quite a bit of traffic on these back country roads and we stand on the edge (and even off when there is passing traffic). When walking in country areas at home I use the one finger salute and get a good response. Here I use a wave of the palm and are getting a very good response.

Today is, like Monday, as flat as a pancake. But to my right I can see the Pennine range. At this place it reminds me of the Tararua Range when coming down from Woodville to Greytown – there but not menacing – I take several photos to remind me.

There were two major items on the walk today – both were river crossings.

The first was quite benign: slow flowing clear shallow with a good base – easy peasy but still take care.

The second was a different kettle of fish:: faster with a sticky muddy base and muddy approaches. I was very pleased to have Nadine with me.

We were in Fiorenzuola d’Arda by 10h30 with a few micro pauses. After some orange drinks we inspect the cathedral. I then find my hostel and check-in. Then stay with Nadine until her check-some two hours later.

Time for a kip, a search for dried fruit and a lie down.

Eileen comes into my room. She is an Australian from Sydney walking with her husbsnd. They started at Aosta several weeks sgo. She invites me to join them for a meal. Another pilgrim, Lassie is what I hear, from Norway. The only place open is a pizerria and between we demolish two and drink each. On our return thirst again strikes us and we find a bar near the cathedral before returning to our rooms

And so to my bed.

day 34 Piacenza to Cadeo - day 1 for 2026

Monday, 27 April
Piacenza to Cadeo - 13 km today
838 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
851 km on my Via Francigena (13 km for 2026)

I am back on the road at last

To get here from London included attendance at the ANZAC Day service at 5 am at Hyde Park Corner, a barbie at the home of my London based son, his partner and my grandson before going to Gatwick for the 2 hour flight to Milan. The train to Piacenza (my restart point) had me seeing the sights I missed in 2023.

My accommodation is but 300 metres from the Via Francigena route to Rome. This is quite new with a good set up and E24 for the night.

Monday up, breakfasted and off just after 07h. As always, with the sun to the south, way finding can be check and check and check again. This time I had a major land based feature, the railway line always on my left both on the map and in reality.

After 6 km the only choice was the major SS9 highway: one lane in each direction and a barely adequate shoulder with some rough to use when large trucks rolled past. But well before 10h I arrive at Pontenure for morning coffee, church visit, note a new (2026) memorial “Ai Caduti “ (to the fallen), lunch break, encounter a French pilgrim (who is staying at the same hostel as me tonight), afternoon coffee before setting off with the sun behind me. The last 4 kilometres are also on the SS9 and takes a while. I stop for every big truck to pass. But a I arrive, get a key to the hostel and encounter, not unexpectedly, the French woman(Nadine from Loire Valley) from Pontenure town square. We agree to have a meal together. We don’t have a language in common so we use a translation app. She is from the lower Loire valley and knows of Le Puy-en-Velay in the upper Loire valley. The meal ends.

And so to our own beds.

day 33 bis London

In late February 2026 I booked air travel to London for a few days after Easter and bought travel insurance for UK, France, Switzerland and Italy.

On 17 March I started my last training walk for at least 14 km into Hutt central and possibly another 4 km to Petone. One km before Hutt central I stumbled. The bumps and scratches did my pride no good. However, the small team that instantly gathered to get me upright included two registered nurses: from their very professional concerns they called an ambulance resulting in a good check over at Hutt Hospital emergency department before sending me home. A week later I consulted my GP. After a check over, she advised going to London and “testing the water” so to speak and then make decision whether or not to go to Italy.

The journey up to Shanghai was uneventful. The journey from Shanghai to London was a sign of the times. On two previous trips througgh China, the "grest circle flight psth was used. This took me over, for exampoe, Ekatenburg and near Moscow before the descent into London. This time the flight wsd directly east across China and the 'Stans, then across the Caspian Sea about 100 km north of Iran to join whst the flight path would be if coming Saudi Arabia. And then heading for London.

In the two weeks since I have completed 10 of the 24 stages of the 244 km London Outer Orbital Path (LOOP) and a 20 km stage of Thames Path from Twickenham to Putney.

With some confidence I have booked a return to Piacenza, my last stop in 2023.

Like my efforts on LOOP, my daily stages between hostels in Italy will be less than 20 km.

I am now “resting’ in Hounslow for two days and taking in the local activities.

On Saturday, with my London based son, I plan to attend the ANZAC dawn parade at the NZ memorial at Hyde Park Corner.

Written at Hounslow on a sunny Thursday afternoon.

Day 33 bis Wellington

Now in early 2026: Looking back on my adventures in August and September 2023, I was content with the progress I had made down into Italy but disapointed a heavy cold prevented my going up to the Great Saint Bernard Pass. I was relaxed about the decision at the time and are looking how to include that into my 2026 adventures.

During 2024 and 2025 I kept up my regular routine of day walks and kept noting my stamina was holding back the distances achieved. I consulted the very helpful world wide community at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community. The response was very supportive and suggested I aim for not more than 20 km a day and in reality often less from one suitable hostel/backpack to the next. My indicative 2026 trip log from Piacenza to Sienna is built accordingly.

About 10 days ago I booked a flight (in early April) to London via Shangahi Pudong. I have yet to book a flight to Milan. And then by train to my start point Piacencza.

Then two days ago the US started "a war to end all wars", in the middle east at least!

Looking at the map, my flight from Shanghai should, literally, fly well above and north of any difficulties. But ...

In 2025, with 84 day trips around the Wellington region, I completed just over 1,400 km. I noted my speed when walking had dropped from a high of about 5.5 kph to around 5.1 (age does weary and the years do condemn). To hekp give me the best I consulted a personal trainer I first met in late 2023: the brief assist with stamina and tone my legs. After a week (five to go) the pace is about right and I am feeling very positive.

It is early morning as I write this, so I will rise and shine.

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy. Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well. Sockets to power or charge abound The trains keep to the timetable. And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away.

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view. And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up. Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible.

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month, I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common. From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle. And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837. Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place. This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road. And a lot is on roads, with or without houses. And, at times, the signage was very good. And at times it wasn't.

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance.

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania. His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s. He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism. Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation.

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings. But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks. Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits.

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.

Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
Sunday, 23 September
Orio Litta to Piacenza 24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
24 km for today
838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30. I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together.

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino. Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong. I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza.

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home. There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment.

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry. There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside, a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none.. I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery. As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business. No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon, I decide not to continue to Lucca. Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza. So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.

Day 32 - Pavia to Orio Litta

Day 32 - day 11 for 2023
Satuday, 22 September
Pavia to Orio Litta 36 km today - bus 14 - walking 22
778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023
36 km for today
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023)

l rise early so I can leave by 07h30.

The bus to Belgioioso leaves at 07h40 and I don't wish to miss it - the next is at 11h00.

I get off about 08h30 and look for a cash point and underway just after 09h.

I am on the roads because the official route (not the one created by Archbishop Sigeric) goes backwards and forwards and adding considerable distance in the process.

I am surprised by the many small retail shops selling cold water and similar. But I can feel my strength ebbing.

As today's journey nears its end there is a guy standing on my side of the r9as and waving at me. I stop: he has two questions -

Why aren't I on the official route? My answer - Archbishop Sigeric, no doubt keen to get back to Canterbury, would not have taken the now official route.

What does a Scotsman wear under the kilt? My answer - not telling.

I've almost got over the head cold acquired at Montreux more than a week ago. And I'm waking during the night and not getting back to sleep as much as I would like.

At last I come under a railway arch and there is thr church for Orio Litta less than 2 km. But the path is over 2.5 km to go.

I struggle with this information and the church never seems to get closer. But then I am there.

I goto to the vigil Eucharist for the Sunday.

And begin looking for accommodation for Sunday night in Piacenza.

And so to bed.

Day 31 - Tromello to Pavia

Day 31 - day 10 for 2023
Friday, 22 September
Tremello to Pavia
751 km to Day 29 (239 km for 2023)
27 km for today all by train
778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023)

l want to be on the road early today as its a longish distance and the days are getting warm again.

My hostess has left a nice variety in the hostel kitchen. The whole of the top floor is devoted to the hostel with four beds. And I have been the, b only resident this past evening.

I over imbibe and am out the door just after sunrise.

I have gone about 30 minutes when I notice a railway level crossing. I reach for my camera: it's not in my shoulder bag nor in my pockets. I double check and start heading back to the village.

Conundrum:

I can't knock on the front door as its about 20 metres from the locked gate.

cannot ring.

I walk about the town and notice both the local train station and the local police offce.

I enter the police station and between them, they recognize the property and within 30 minutes my phone and I are united

The second part of the conundrum is can I reach Pavia, the next town and where I have booked a bed for the night.

I choose what I am sure Archbishop Sigeric would have chosen, the current version of a fast horse. One thing I have noticed about European railway systems: there is almost no noise of buffering when a train goes over points, turnouts, call then what you will.

I am at the accommodation, about 2km to the east of the rail station in Pavia by 13h and spend the afternoon looking around the central city.. A lot is relatively new. The old is the University and the churches. What seems quite new is a statue of Pavia: you can do your own research.

For the Saturday I have decided to bus about 10 km to Belgioioso and walk my more direct version of 20 km to Orio Litta.

At Belgioioso I gave trouble locating the bank and its ATM (or BancoMat). So, I go into the cade across the busy road. Coming out after coffee and a Pastry, I can see the signs clearly - when walking past on a 600 mm wide footpath, the detail get lost in the need to look at my feet and not take in the bigger picture.

The distance is about 20 km and I am surprised how many refreshment stops there are.

While making progress, the heat is, for me, very tiring.

The official path and I coincide at a bridge slightly more than 2 km to my destination. The whole time the destination is clearly visible, but my energy is fast fading.

I make the hostel and made very welcome. I get a wash of the days clothes, go to a vigil eucharist and a pasta with tomato sauce and basil.

Before sleep overtakes me, I look at the accommodation and fire off some emails.

And so to bed.

day 30 - Robbio to Tremello

Day 30 - day 9 for 2023
Thursday, 21 September
Robbio to Tremello
723 km to Day 29 (211 km for 2023)
28 km for today
751 km on my Via Francigena (239 km for 2023)

I rise about 06h and leave the Community hostel about 07h30, having heated and eaten a cachet of Rizzoli integrale.

The route to Mortara will follow the Via Francigena route almost exactly. Simple explanation: it is shorter than the road by about 6 km or about 90 fewer minutes walking.

Surprise: most of the road is sealed and the unsealed bits are not rough, so the going is good.

On both sides I see crops of not great height. I am reminded of wheat, but this is much shorter. And there is an abundance on water reticulation channels.

About 09h is Nicorvo and a café and the first coffee of the day. Near the counter are vacuum sealed packs of rice. Looking at the owner I point at the packs and then sweep my hand around. He nods expressively, and sweeps his hand around also. On leaving the village, I go into the chapel and say the morning office.

The flat road entices me back and the town of Albanese comes up about 10h30. Time for a quick cold drink and back on the sealed road to Mortara.

The roads are generally good and the traffic generally light. So, I practice my wave and get many good responses.

Then someone stops and, using a translation app, asks if I need assistance. I tell him what I am doing and the reaction and he is content.

Mortara comes up before 12 noon and I am soon seated with a large cappuccino and brioche marmelittia.

Here I look at accommodation for tonight in Tremello and ring one. We talk in simple terms, I am booked in and please be here by 16h. It is 12 km and I have about 3 hours.

Before setting off a bottle of Moretti is called for.

I make good progress, a car stops: the occupants want to know about the kilt and offer me a ride to Tremello. We chat on the way and I arrive.

From the works of art on the walls, the lady owner has some skills. The property is named The House of the Nocciolo.

I do another wash, of today's clothes, and have a meal.

My choice of restart, Vercelli, could not have been better.

And so to bed.

Day 29 - Vercelli to Robbio

Day 29 - day 8 for 2023
Wedneday, 20 September
Vercelli to Robbio
705 km to Day 28
18 km for today
723 km on my Via Francigena (211 km for 2023)

I rise about 04h and leave the Combo hostel at about 05h walking Via XX September to Torino Porta Nuova train station.

I arrive about 30 minutes later and soon find my departure platform. Over three travel days, I have found TrenItalia runs on a lot of passenger trust. While I have an e-ticket for each stage, I have never been asked for it.

The train I have selected on arrival, actually departs at 05h54 - my ticket was for the departure at 06h54. I arrive at Vercelli at 07h and I follow the VF route on my map to the eastern outskirts of town and the last and only open café so far.

My route initially is on road, then an outback agricultural service road. I find the largish stones of this route, as anywhere, hard to walk on. After about 12 km I encounter the town of Palestro (site of a largish battle in 1859 between Austria and a combined Sardinian (Torino) and French force - commemorated in the town square and on leaving eastwards).

To my destination for the day, Robbio, I walk the remainder on the road. I do my customary salute to oncoming motorists and have a very high response rate.

I come to the town council offices as they have a donativo apartment with five beds. I am the only resident so far today and the log book suggest 2 or 3 users a week.

I wash a top, the front of my kilt and some smalls and put them on the drying frame outside. The warm light breeze should do the trick.

After a brief look around, I repair to the bar across the road for a birra, brioche and trumpet ice cream.

And to write these trip notes.

After a brief rest find a pizzeria that does other stuff, so have a salad entirely of sea food.

At the end tell the owner the Maui and the fish story. He seemed suitably impressed, maybe as he was of an age to have young children and looking for fresh things.

And so to bed.

Day 28 bis - transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino

Day 28 bis - day 7 for 2023
Saturday, 16 to Tuesday, 19 September 2023
transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino
705 km to Day 28
0 km for this transfer
705 km on my Via Francigena

Saturday, 16 September - Saint-Maurice to Milano

The Abbey hostel provides a simple breakfast of coffee, bread with confiture and cheese which all six of us enjoy.

Three are moving on today with the couple staying another night.

Today I start the process of bypassing, for now, the 2,000 metre climb over 5 days to the Great Saint-Bernard Pass and several days down the other side.

I have arranged to sit in the reception room of the Abbey during the morning. I have decided to spend the time getting my trip notes up to date and almost succeed. I reward myself with a coffee and girella.

I am on the platform for almost an hour before departure and see a variety of train operations. A Portugese man and I talk for about 5 minutes about the kilt and what we are each doing before he and his Brazilian wife go to their train.

My train goes across the bottom half of Switzerland, starting in Geneva with Brig at the other end. There we change to a train that takes us through the 1921 Simplon Tunnel to Domodossla, by bus to Stresa and then a stop start train (for stations and other events) to Milano.

During this journey we change from announcements in French, German and Italian and from relative consideration for others to gentle pushing and queue hopping by young and old alike.

As the day moves on I keep adding a layer. My head cold with a slight temperature has not improved. And the 90 minute wait (20 was scheduled) in line at the Domodossla bus station has not helped. On arrival at Milano at about 21h I feel like a mental and physical cot case. And I have yet to get to the hostel. It is about 2km walking or 2 metro subway stops and 500 metres walking. Getting to the metro platform is a major task in itself.

At the hostel, the reception staff are very gracious and considerate. In particular, without prompting, the receptionist hand prints the things I need to know. I am so grateful and thank him most warmly. And I relax.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Sunday, 17 September - walk about Milano

I have my short list and ask the reception for others. I soon have a list, again with hand printed notes for the Metro.

In daylight and with some sleep I navigate the Metro with a bit more ease and am soon at Duomo (or Cathedral). I enter the side reserved for prayer, to say the morning office and, before a painting of Mary and Jesus as a toddler, light three candles - for my youngest son Timothy (2002), for Cathy (2014) and for Sue (2023).

Victor Emmanuel II arcade is a must walk through to see the people seeing the people.

Coffee calls and so does the Museum for Teatro di la Scala. The museum has some items of interest. But most fascinating for me is the opportunity to stand in the dozen or so boxes open as part of the visit and try to imagine 8 people seated in pairs viewing the performance. And a scale model shows the audience have but a small part of the complex. The large orchestra pit, the large sloping stage, most of which can descend well below street level to present spectacular moments, the flying area above the stage, the massive area behind the stage, the various dressing rooms above - it just goes on and on. Built in 1778 and going strong nearly 250 years later.

Back to Milano today and walking I note a restaurant doing a grand trade and wait in the queue for a table for one. Pasta caarbonnara is good and so is the salad.

I continue walking and arrive back at Garibaldi Station. Now to find Navgli, the area for the last canal in Milano. I find two: the suburb and park then the canal itself with people all over the bridge to the open air market street beyond. While people do push in, there is also just as much standing back.

And so to bed for this lay day

Monday, 18 September - Milano to Torino

I make porridge breakfast and leave about 08h30. it will take well under 30 minutes to get to the station. About the same to have a coffee and my train has come up on the board with its platform number. Within 30 minutes we are stopped, at Milano Centosa. During what will be a 3 hour wait I go for a walk outside the station, pass a farmacia and buy some Paracetamol. An hour later the six passengers remaining are told what to do. As a group we stay together, including me and a Lithuanian, until we are on the train to Torino.

I walk the 2 km to my hostel passing normal late afternoon activities in central Torino. The hostel is large and well appointed. I have a meat and veg meal which is enjoyable.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Tuesday, 19 September - Torino

Up early to start this four day section and have breakfast.

Away into Torino, passing the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Reale, and Mole, the worlds highest brick building and former synagogue and coffee and muffin. Down via Giuseppe Verdi (being refurbished for pedestrians) and the reasonably fast flowing Po River especially as it comes over a Weir at this point.

Encounter memorials to Victor Emmanuel I, King of Sardinia and Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy.

(Some day the composer Giuseppe Verdi started life with some other surname. And later changed to Verdi to show loyalty to Victor Emmanuel Rex and Duce di Italia (King and Leader of Italy).

I see a Decatholon store and go in to see why North Americans on the Santiago forum think so highly of it. Walking shoes are of interest and I see something to follow up on when the rime is right.

I look about two weeks ahead from my restart point of Vercelli and feel reinvigorated. And the head cold is easing off and there are several trains for early Wednesday morning.

And so to bed for this lay day.