.

day 48 - Camaiore to Lucca - day 15 for 2026

Day 48 – day 15 for 2026
Monday, 11 May 2026
Camaiore to Lucca – 24 km today by bus
1 073 km on my Via Francigena before today
24 km for today
1 097 km on my Via Francigena (283 km for 2026

The hostel at Camaiore has many more pilgrims than I have seen than I have seen this year. After my bowl of porridge I talk with a couple from The Netherlands while a few others come and go. I push of to the main (almost pedestrian only about 700 metres long) street. The night before it is full of life and vitality. At 07h30 there is only one café open. I have a cappuccino and croissant. By 08h30 I am at the stop waiting for the bus to Lucca.

I’ve been in several walled cities in Europe before but Lucca is uniquely different: not only are all the walls intact but the ramparts where I walked are about 30 metres wide and residents make use of this space for outdoor exercise. I find the hostel, note we are expected from 15h, and continue my walk about. Nadine messages to say she in on the outskirts of the town and we agree a place to meet. She says she had an easy day with but one slight hill to overcome but was underway for well over 5 hours. We lunch and chat. Then goto to the hostel of St Martin and St James. We are efficiently received.

In the allocated room Nadine shows me both her walking shoes: they are not fit to continue with. She locates a sports shoe shop within the walls: we go there but the do not have the high top style she needs. Back at the hostel we find another shop about 3 km away: we set off at about 17h and despite the many twists and turns make good time. Nadine makes her selection and we head back: we are conscious that dinner is at 19h and starts with a foot washing. We make it with about 20 minutes to prepare and find a room mate who has arrived by bike. His home is Slovakia.

Foot washing is done in a simple liturgical manner: then dinner. There is more than enough for three pilgrims and the two hospitallers but we finish it all. We are together for almost two hours with lots of questions and answers around the table. We learn, for example, the two hospitallers are volunteers for a 7 day duty. I also learn, as I have for the previous 14 days that people know of New Zealand and that it a long way away and isolated in the south west Pacific. Some confusion comes from my wearing the kilt and easily accept my explanation (my father was born in Edinburgh). And tonight is no exception.

And so to our own beds.

day 47 - Pietrasanta to Camaiore - day 14 for 2026

Day 47 – day 14 for 2026
Sunday, 10 May 2026
Pietrasanta to Camaiore – 9 km today
1 064 km on my Via Francigena before today
9 km for today
1 073 km on my Via Francigena (259 km for 2026)

We start at 06h30 at a cafe in Piazza Duomo and cappuccino. Some 3 km after setting off we start up a steepish road and soon are directed up a steep goat like track. Reaching the summit we see down into an abyss: a steep descent closed over by the trees giving little light. Towards the bottom the trees change to very tall bamboo and we use these to hold to preserve our footing. For us this is slow going. But by mid afternoon I meet an 82 year old Switzer who has completed 26 km today, including the section we found hard today.

On the outskirts of Camaiore, Nadine and I chat. I had told her last night I would finish this year at Lucca in two days. The chat now is should I stay at Camaiore tonight and on Monday bus to Lucca where we catch up and farewell.

I quickly agree as tomorrow is an 18 km day and we don’t know what difficulties will be ahead. We continue into Camaiore and find an open bar with a range of lunch food and partake. About noon Nadine continues the 6 km to her hostel for the night at . Not much later an image showing a terrible surface to climb up and just now (three hours later) one to say “It’s great, it’s nice to have company. I arrived safely and I’m all alone” at Valpromaro.

I get a bed in a hostel at Camaiore and will shortly go out to check the bus stop for tomorrow.

Even later I go out for a meal. The most active is the place we stopped for lunch. At 19h30 (7.30 pm) I get s table to myself, order a beer, a bottle of frizzante water and a quarter of a pizza heated por favore. Then a note is placed on my table reserving it for 4 people at 20h30. So I have an hour to finish. As I go I pay €6 (about $ 12) – very reasonable.

Nadine’s ostello is donativo and includes dinner with two locals.

And so to our own beds.

day 46 - Massa to Pietrasanta - day 13 for 2026

day 46 - day 13 for 2026

Saturday, 9 May 2026

Massa to Pietrasanta - 17 km today

1 047 km on my Via Francigena before today

17 km for today

1 064 km on my Via Francigena (250 km for 2026)

I quickly agree as tomorrow is an 18 km day and we don’t know what difficulties will be ahead. We continue into Camaiore and find an open bar with a range of lunch food and partake. About noon Nadine continues the 6 km to her hostel for the night. Not much later an image showing a terrible surface to climb up and just now (three hours later) 8one to say “It's great, it's nice to have company. I arrived safely and I'm all alone.”

I get a bed in a hostel at Camaiore and will shortly go out to check the bus stop for tomorrow.

And so to our own beds.

day 45 - Sarzana to Massa - day 12 for 2026

day 45 - day 12 for 2026
Friday, 8 May 2026
Sarzana to Massa - 18 km today
1 029 km on my Via Francigena before today
18 km for today – walk 12 – train 6
1 047 km on my Via Francigena (206 km for 2026)

We start at 07h. Today promises to be like a walk in the park and alongside a canal. Except the park is quite small and at the top of a hill. And the first two thirds of the canal is still having finishing touches and not yet open.

We avoided the first gratuitous hill: we could not avoid the next. The route takes up a steep hill and down the other side. After more than three hours on our feet we come to a section of the canal where the barricades have just been cast aside and final footpath painting (a walker above a diminutive bicycle are being carried out). The walking now is easy. This canal effort is already providing an activity for locals and long distance walkers alike.

Since Piacenza we have been slaves to major roads SS9 and SS62. Today we encountered SS1 Aurelia by crossing it to reach Avenza / Carrarra. But we first pass through the historical Latin site of Lunae (now Luni). We pass the indoor museum and the outdoor excavation (much is under cover from the worst of the elements.

The heat at 22c is affecting my abilities (despite drinking more water than usual at this stage) and Nadine agrees to a halt for a tall cold orange drink at the outskirts of Avenza. Nadine also buys some focaccia to have with our meal tonight.

From the train station the places where the pure white marble is taken is clearly visible across a wide area of hills about 5km away. And as the train leaves Avenza, I notice many businesses involved in preparing marble for delivery to customers.

Massa train station is several km from the centre of Massa and the hostel. The pin-drop location on the map is a building site. A local sees our confusion and instead of pointing and talking leads us to the hostel’s front door. We shake hands in farewell as he wishes us safe travels. And the process of checking-in is quick and efficient with warmth.

After a few hours rest Nadine and I go to the piazza our guide referred to. It is but a few minutes away. It would be almost 100 metres square. The east side is fully occupied by a three storied building – magnificent – not over powering. The north and west sides have one or two rows of orange trees laden with fruit. In the middle is an obelisk with a panrl on three sides noting significant events in the formation of Italy in 1851, 1860 and 1870. The side notes an event in 1943 and the departure north of German forces on 10 April 1945. The feature of the obelisk is recorded on piazza; this is s line, of Carrera marble of the spring and autumn equinox at midday.

We go shopping for food at a local Conad store and over dinner I ask Nadine what she most preferred. She replied with the two hilltop villages far above at all times. I agreed and would add the almost complete walk and cycle wsy beside the canal: as well as being a local utility it will transform the way for pilgrims to Rome. The pity is they could not extend it north to the outskirts of Sarzana. And that other communities from Pontremoli down cannot create similar facilities for their own communities and pilgrims.

And so to our own beds.

day 44 - Aulla to Sarzana - day 11 for 2026

day 44 - day 11 for 2026
Thursday, 7 May 2026
Aulla to Sarzana - 18 km today – by bus
1 011 km on my Via Francigena before today
18 km for today
1 029 km on my Via Francigena (188 km for 2026)

The trip notes from Gronze.com for this sector say ‘one of the hardest stages of the Via Francigena takes place”. Having yesterday had my hardest day ever, I am not kern to have another. Nadine and I discuss this over morning cappuccino. She us keen and after exploring the start of a possible road alternative, we mutually abandon that idea. Nadine turns right up a steep road and I return back into Aulla to seek a bus or train solution.

I can see bus stops along an arterial road through the town and note they are all on the other side of my Greenway (former railway). And a local confirms this. After walking the length of the village the nearest bus stop is on a fast flowing road with a vey narrow grass shoulder. A mum with a 3 year old and an 18 month old join me. The bus comes, stops in the middle of the single lane and ee clamber aboard. It eventually stops where others are lined up. A bus turns up on time and we clamber aboard using the wide door that is normally the exit. And a few minutes later we are almost back where I started. Except now there are several buses waiting for simething. We all scramble off and the driver waves away any payment. A younger guy seeks out the bus that will drop me at Sarzana, a little over 12 km away by road.. This is lical bus si avariett if set diwn and puck ups. And I see another braided river – wide with much gravel washed out from the nearby hills – just not much water flow at present.

I am dropped at Sarzana central and find it is market day. Mainly womens clothing vlfilling the piazza and surrounding streets.

I make my way to the parish church that operates the ostello – it is close to the camino path. It is a relatively new building (less than 60 years okd is my guess. I “camp” there for over an hour and read the morning office for the past week. I find an out of the way place to put my pack in plain view and go to survey the town. The only notable find is the church of S Andrew – while centuries old it has been ‘tidied up” (my words) with limited art work. For me it was a pleasure to spend a few monents there.

A light lunch and a but more wanderibg around and getting lost helps pass the time.

Also keeping in touch with Nadine. In one message she describes crawling up on hands and knees to reach the summit. A funsk message tells me the road she will enter the town. I go to greet her only to find work for a new bridge means she will have a diversion.

I retire to the church, find the ostello and check in. And Nadine arrives. We natter for a while and learn her journey today was 21 km – certainly not a walk in the park And compares with the 17.5 km in the Cronze trip notes for this stage.

We agree to buy food at a Conrad super market (much like a smaller New World). For €6.58 we dine each like a king and queen with avocado, fine carrot slices, baby tomatoes, sluced tasty cheese, a hamburger pattie each and citron flavoured YoMo each.

And so to our own beds.

The days from Friday to Tuesday: if I described them as hard, I had not been properly prepared. Today was a short distance but by far was the hardest day I’ve ever had. We left at 07h and had a straightforward starting bit. But from then until after 12 noon we were in forest the whole time. That was the good news. The bad news is that we were traipsing from one valley to another up forest tracks filled with water and stones of all shapes snd sizes. Plus it was raining almost continuosly. Fed up after nearly five hours of slog we took to the roads and reached the northern end of Aulla and found a café for a cold drink and a chocolate brioche.

The hostel is found and there are six of us. One couple is cycling and started ar Cassio this morning. By comparison ee started from Cassio on Sunday morning.

Looking ahead we note the 18 km tomorrow is similar to today – through otherwise untouched bush / forest. We will find another way.

And so to our own beds.

day 43 - Filetto to Aulla - day 10 in 2026

day 43 - day 10 for 2026
Wednesday, 6 May 2026
Fileto to Aulla - 14 km today
997 km on my Via Francigena before today
14 km for today
1 011 km on my Via Francigena (170 km for 2026)

The hostel is found and there are six of us. One couple is cycling and started ar Cassio this morning. By comparison ee started from Cassio on Sunday morning.

Looking ahead we note the 18 km tomorrow is similar to today – through otherwise untouched bush / forest. We will find another way.

And so to our own beds.

day 42 - Pontremoli to Filetuo - day 9 for 2026

Day 42 - day 9 for 2026
Tuesday, 5 May 2026
Pontremoli to Burgo di Filetto - 18 km today
979 km on my Via Francigena before today
18 km for today
997 km on my Via Francigena (161 km for 2026)

In the chat at Pontremoli we were told that the 30 km or so to Aulla would be hard and afterwards Via Francigena becomes easier. The chat about today was right, in a way. There is always what seem to be gratuitous deviations. Some can be explained when we are taken up a steep path with many largish stones of varying sizes to a chapel, dedicated to the annunciation to Mary by the Archangel Gabriel of her pregnancy with a reredos in a 16th century style, which is locked. Many others can be understood as wanting to keep pilgrims away from main roads that motor vehicles and cyclists may find a nuisance. Today’s 18 km can be explained by that consideration. As I write the height is report as a tad above 200 m above sea level (asl). On our deviations towards the Apennines heights of around 400 m asl were noted.

The rain stopped just before 10h. We have a second break at Filateria about 11h and agree to carry on. We climb one hill and return, almost to the main road (SS62) and then go up another before reaching Burgo di Filetto about 14h This is an enclosed town with central road west to east and two piazza. We find the B&B that Nadine has booked on line. We check in. Still damp clothes are swapped and we rest until 19h.

The pizzeria is like a diamond waiting to be discovered. We enter just before 20h and are amongst the first arrivals. Over our evening meal, Nadine and I discuss today. She is quite clear that, despite the early rain for about two hours, it was a good day. We completed 18 km and I had used very little water. Nadine says she has travelled in Italy several times and on one trip their car was the hotel.

We return well after 21h and find the water heaters are on. Joy, we can now be certain our damp clothes will be dry by morning.

And so to our own beds.

day 41 - Berceto to Pontremoli - day 8 for 2026

Day 41 - day 8 for 2026
Monday, 4 May 2026
Berceto to Pontremoli - 28 km today
951 km on my Via Francigena before
28 km for today
979 km on my Via Francigena (143 km for 2026)

Today was going to be hard: from 840 m asl up to 1,041 m asl then down to 300 m asl on rough tracks. Both Nadine and I knew this would be impossible for us. And I am sure Sigeric would not disapprove as he had arranged for a taxi to meet us in the square at Berceton.

We decamped from the hostel at 07h. I looked around the corridors near our room. I suspect it had been either a residential school or seminary to train young men for the oriest hood. Now adorning some nearby walls were some well executed memories of an event in 2019 for young people from Hungary, Czech Republic, Russia and a few others.

And we repair to Da Romano (who gave us pizza the night before) and find a lively mob. Cappuccino to start. As we have almost 4 hours before we go to the square, we exchange details of our families and photos that are on our phones. I go for a walk in the nearby park and notice a womsn with a baby. I ask (in English) if she has a camera and may I take a photo of the two of them. She seems grateful for the opportunity and it is done.

We meet the taxi driver who says we will stop at the pass between the hills, about 6 km on, for photos. First a sign just before announcing 1041 m slm (sur le mare) and then at the pass itself. We take some steps for better viewing points snd photos of both sides of the pass. It is 20 km of a steep winding road with several roadworks. I look across the valley to the verdant growth and where the Via Francigena track will have several walkers and remember we had been told it is quite rugged. The advice in one advisory is expect to take the best part of the day. There is no phone coverage: in the event of some disabling accident ...

We pay the driver and make our way to our hostel. The instructions are that it “At the entrance, in the Castello del Piagnaro”. We walk up the wide uneven stony psth to the entrance. After check in we are taken up a sloping path, through and arched tunnel into a courtyard and told our rooms are at the top of a set of stone staircase. We settle in and Nadine suggests we meet at 5 pm to explore the city and find a meal.

At 5 pm we gather and make our way back down the stone stairs and paths to a square. We don’t know it yet but every thing we need will be close by. The doors to a large church are open and we enter. There is enough light to be safe but not quite enough to appreciate the many works of art and there is a lot. Unlike the church at Berceto with round Roman pillars, here the columns are more elaborately decorated in a restrained Roccoco style with light blue colouring. Back outside Nadine sees a tower thinking it might be a church: it is but now used for secular performances. Back over our second bridge with a sign saying destroyed on 25 April 1945 and restored in 1947. With the first date I am reminded of a poster I had seen two days before at Medesano advertising an event on 25 April 2026 commemorating the end of the war that day in 1945, “81 years ago”.

We continue our walk about and cross another bridge over another river and see they merge just down stream from this point. Echoes of the River Taro at Fornovo two days before: both rivers have many largish boulders on both banks and there is much stone in the light water flow. With the exception of a few shops on one corner we are amongst houses. We have been walking, slowly for almost two hours and it is time to find a meal. Nadine searches for possibles but either they are just bars or are closed. We ffind Trattoris di Norina down a long enclosed corridor: it is open but not taking order unti 7:30. Returning to the square, two places that looked decidedly closed just after 5 pm are now alive and pumping. One just does cocktails and up market finger food while the other offers beer and nibbles: we sit down.

We return to Tratorria di Norina and get a warm welcome. Also joining us is a guy (of my age) from the Netherlands. He has good English and some French and we three talk as we eat. He wants to know why I come to Europe to walk. For me that is easy: i have walked for eight days, covered almost 150 km, seen many things and talked with many people and found food during the day and a bed at night and can expect to walk another 550 km to Rome. This not something I could even contemplate in New Zealand. He nicely persists and trot out the Ed Hilary saying “I did because it was there!”

We are finished in due course and return to the Castello, agreeing to leave at 7 tomorrow.

And so to our own beds.

footnote

Sigeric was elected Archbishop of Canterbury and, as was the practice then and now, went to see the Roman pope to be given his badge of office, a pallio. His 80 day return journey was documented at time and forms a basis for the Via Francigena route that Nadine and I and many others we have encountered so far. Needless to say, Sigeric and his entourage would have use of the expressways of the day. In many cases those route form the basis of todays roads used by cars. So walkers on Via Francigena have what is left over.

day 40 - Cassio to Berceto - day 7 for 2026

Day 40 - day 7 for 2026
Sunday, 3 May 2026
Cassio to Berceto - 11 km today
940 km on my Via Francigena
11 km for today
951 km on my Via Francigena (115 km for 2026)

At 11 km this was expected to be a walk in the park. It turned out to be anything but.

Nadine and I agreed on a 07h start. Just before we set off, we take a photo of the far hills from the same spot we took a photo of the sun about to set behind the same hills.

We are off and I note our altitude is 840 metres above sea level (840 m asl).

We do not break any records for the 3 km to Cavazolla. Here the path leaves the road and enters a forest. The path has been well used by heavy vehicles and is deeply rutted with wster from the rains many days before adding an interesting feature. Our heads are downward looking. We catch up with a couple that had entered the forest a few minutes before us. We all ponder which of the branches ahead we should take. It is then ee notice we are well of route. We retrace our steps and after about 500 metres notice a very steep track to our left with a large Via Francigena sign pointing up.

Even in the Tararua mountains I have not encountered anything so steep. We rise from 760 m asl to over 900 m asl covering 1 km of distance emerging through a village to keep on rising. The pain continues. We rise just over 100 m of elevation but along narrow tracks with rubble generously strewn about making it hard for me to keep my balance.

A feature of this route is the many times we are taken up a hillock – I measure msny of them at over 1000 m asl. I have been this high only three times before – twice in the Tararua’s and once in the Pyrenees when crossing from France into Spain. Is is late Spring so the conditions are OK.

We find our hostel for the night and begin the wind down. I note we are 850 m asl and in the valley to the north, about 10 km away and only 200 m asl is the River Taro we crossed two afternoon ago on the entrance to Fornovo di Tsro.

We look for a meal about 19h (7pm) although it is Sunday and find Da Romano and a selection of about 20 pizza to choose from. We now have room mate who today has walked the 34 km from Fornovo and tomorrow will cross over the pass at 1100 m asl and begin the descent into Pontremoli, some 28 km all up.

Nadine and I decide to taxi to Pontremoli on Monday.

And so to our own beds.

day 39 - Fornovo de Taro to Cassio - day 6 for 2026

Day 39 - day 6 for 2026
Saturday, 2 May 2026
Fornovo di Taro to Cassio - 20 km today
920 km on my Via Francigena
20 km for today
940 km on my Via Francigena (102 km for 2026)

As there is much elevation gain (climbing) today we agree to set of at 06h30. We soon regret this as we pass a display telling, among other things the temperature: it is 6.0c.

We choose to take the road alternative as it avoids a straight up climb, only to come down the other side of the hill to meet the road we are on. The road is good with occasional traffic. As cars here drive on their right we normally walk on our left facing oncoming traffic, except we walk on the right (outer side of the curve) for a left hand bend.

About 10h we are Sivizzano and asking locals about accommodation. We had planned to stop for the night about 6 km further on. But current advise is there is no now accommodation there. We continue up the steep hill – we pause and the couple with the light gear arrive a few moments later – they had started 2 hours later so walking at twice our speed.

We continue up and take another pause. About 5 minutes latter a small FIAT looking like a mini stops and offers us a ride beyond our intention.

We are very grateful and accept. Cassio is a hidden gem of sorts. If just passing through you will see the 3 or 4 commercial endeavours. Hidden in a parallel street is flat limestone pavers and neat and tidy houses that are well presented. The hostel manager arrives and we check-in, get washing done, read books, arrange for Sunday night’s accommodation at Berceto and wait for a restaurant to open at 19h.

And so to our own beds.

day 38 - Medesano to Fornovo di Taro - day 5 for 3026

Day 38 - day 5 for 2026
Friday, 1 May 2026 (May Dsy and a public holiday)
Medesano to Fornovo di Taro - 12 km today
908 km on my Via Francigena
12 km for today
920 km on my Via Francigena (82 km for 2026)

I rise at 06h and note that Richard and Eileen have already left.

Nadine messages to say she has set off from her stopping point at 06h30.

I pack and leave the hostel by about 07h and go to a nearby bar and coffee lounge, catch up with the news then walk to the EuroSpin (a largish Woolworths) at the far end if the village. My task is to find an adhesive to more or less permanently hold two pieces of my trekking pole together. They have nothing but suggest the “Chinese” shop closer to the village centre. The owner knows exactly what I need and shows me a variety of “feet” for someone’s poles. Continuing back towards the café I see another shop has just opened. I show the salesman my problem and hd shows me a tube of Uhu Glue. I retire to the steps outside thd hostel and make my repairs.

Now Nadine messages to say she is about 2 km away from Medesano. I walk slowly and we meet up. Coming back through Medesano we stop for a coffee.

We restart and find ourselves on a flat path that is well maintained for 6 km to the town of Felegara, where we stop for a bottle of water frizzante each.

The path towards Felegara in wide, flat and well used. After Felegara it passes through “bush” which gives shade from the sun.

Rested we take a path alongside a very wide river which we cannot see until we pass under a railway bridge. The banks are very far apart and the river bed is mainly gravel of mixed sizes and a few water courses making their way through. I am immediately reminded of the many braided rivers that come out of the southern alps across the Canterbury plain. And I recall reading that there are few braided rivers outside of Aotearoa-New Zealand. The source of this river (the Taro) is the nearby Appennine mountain range.

We are soon at the shared path bridge that leads across into Fornovo and the hostel for the night.

At the hostel we meet a couple that have walked from Fidenza (about 34 km) and on Saturday intend to walk to Berceto (about 34 km). I note they have very light-weight packs – wet-weather outers and not much else. They say their other gear is transported to them.

Nadine and I look for a meal and find an upper market pizza house with sit down clientele.

And so to bed.

day 37 - Fidenza to Medesano - day 4 for 2026

Day 37 - day 4 for 2026
Thursday, 30 April
Fidenza to Medesano – 22 km today by bus – no walking
886 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
908 km on my Via Francigena (70 km for 2026)

I have arranged for a 06h breakfast. I arrive at 05h45 and all is ready.

Nadine and I meet at the café we first encountered when we arrived at Fidenza yesterday. As the distance tomorrow is challenging for me we have agreed to stay in touch. But ee first walk to Fidenza Cathedral as it is part of the route and then walk about 3 km to the end the town. Nadine carries on and I return to the railway station to check out travel options.

The simplest is a bus to Medesano, leaving at 13h20.

I fill in the near 5 hour wait by lounging in a series of café followed by a light lunch.

I now camp at the bus stop from 12h30 to see how things work. I check with another, local traveller that I am at the right place snd have the right ticket – he confirms. I check the buses as they arrive – do they have my route number and destination – nothing. A lsrge number of secondary students turn up and occupy their bus. Then I notice my friend race for a bus and talks with the driver then beckons me forward. Solely for school kids, I am ushered on.

About 40 minutes later the driver indicates my stop is coming up - I profusely thank him as I alight. I check my bearings and I am less than 100 metres from the parish hostel for tonight.

There to greet me are Eileen and Richard from two nights ago and in due course the parishioner on duty for today arrives snd checks us in.

In the meantime Nadine arrived at her hostel about 10 km further back.

I am sure Eileen and Richard will have a meal sussed in this biggish town.

And so to bed.

day 36 Fiorenzula d'Arda to Fidenza - day 3 for 2026

day 36 - day 3 for 2026
Wednesday, 29 April
Fiorenzuola d’Arda to Fidenza – 22 km today
864 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
886 km on my Via Francigena (48 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in front of the Cathedral at 07h and are off. Again she has her maps well trained and I follow behind. About 10 minutes later Nadine stumbles on the uneven paving blocks. No cuts or abrasions and she soon recovers – we set off lentement (slowly).

Today is again fields but with a difference – some are bare, some have long shallow runs for about 100 metres, some are having water pumped into these runnels, some have shoots about 100 mm high and others have growth beyond a metre. My guess is to stagger the effort for both irrigation drawdown and planting now in Spring and for cultivation in Autumn.

Our walking rate matches our years and I am content. Despite being well into the country side our first stop after 7 km for a mid morning break comes on the bright side of 09h We encounter 1 couple leaving as we arrive and a second couple arrive as we leave. So six of us underway and there was a couple leaving the cathedral area well before our departure time. So eight knowns so far.

Shortly before our lunch stop a relative youngster catches us. This is Lassie (as I heard his name, from Norway. We exchange pleasantries, including his departure time of 08h45, before he quickly disappears, as it seems, into the distance.

Lunch at Castione Marchesi had a promise of goodness as at least two restaurants are shown on the map, but it is not to be. We do find a bake house that does ginormous pizza – one just orders the size you want cut off. The manager does us proud and set up a table and two chairs out of the sun ans it is 12h30. We have done OK for 15 km.

When we are done and ready to push-off it is 12h15. The heat of the day is getting to us both and we stop for a 30 minute siesta in a shaded place. The heat is slowing us both down and we find reasons to stop under trees to check our maps against the Via Francigena signs.

At about 15h30 we arrive at a cafe and enjoy a made on the spot orange juice and “frizzante” water before going to our respective lodgings.

And so to bed.

day 35 Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d'Arda - day 2 for 2026

Day 35 - day 2 for 2026
Tuesday 28 April
Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d’Arda - 13 km today
851 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
864 km on my Via Francigena (26 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in the town square at 07h and are soon off. She has her mops well trained and I follow behind. She signals the turns well beforehand and Via Francigena stickers confirm. At 07h there is quite a bit of traffic on these back country roads and we stand on the edge (and even off when there is passing traffic). When walking in country areas at home I use the one finger salute and get a good response. Here I use a wave of the palm and are getting a very good response.

Today is, like Monday, as flat as a pancake. But to my right I can see the Pennine range. At this place it reminds me of the Tararua Range when coming down from Woodville to Greytown – there but not menacing – I take several photos to remind me.

There were two major items on the walk today – both were river crossings.

The first was quite benign: slow flowing clear shallow with a good base – easy peasy but still take care.

The second was a different kettle of fish:: faster with a sticky muddy base and muddy approaches. I was very pleased to have Nadine with me.

We were in Fiorenzuola d’Arda by 10h30 with a few micro pauses. After some orange drinks we inspect the cathedral. I then find my hostel and check-in. Then stay with Nadine until her check-some two hours later.

Time for a kip, a search for dried fruit and a lie down.

Eileen comes into my room. She is an Australian from Sydney walking with her husbsnd. They started at Aosta several weeks sgo. She invites me to join them for a meal. Another pilgrim, Lassie is what I hear, from Norway. The only place open is a pizerria and between we demolish two and drink each. On our return thirst again strikes us and we find a bar near the cathedral before returning to our rooms

And so to my bed.

day 34 Piacenza to Cadeo - day 1 for 2026

Monday, 27 April
Piacenza to Cadeo - 13 km today
838 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
851 km on my Via Francigena (13 km for 2026)

I am back on the road at last

To get here from London included attendance at the ANZAC Day service at 5 am at Hyde Park Corner, a barbie at the home of my London based son, his partner and my grandson before going to Gatwick for the 2 hour flight to Milan. The train to Piacenza (my restart point) had me seeing the sights I missed in 2023.

My accommodation is but 300 metres from the Via Francigena route to Rome. This is quite new with a good set up and E24 for the night.

Monday up, breakfasted and off just after 07h. As always, with the sun to the south, way finding can be check and check and check again. This time I had a major land based feature, the railway line always on my left both on the map and in reality.

After 6 km the only choice was the major SS9 highway: one lane in each direction and a barely adequate shoulder with some rough to use when large trucks rolled past. But well before 10h I arrive at Pontenure for morning coffee, church visit, note a new (2026) memorial “Ai Caduti “ (to the fallen), lunch break, encounter a French pilgrim (who is staying at the same hostel as me tonight), afternoon coffee before setting off with the sun behind me. The last 4 kilometres are also on the SS9 and takes a while. I stop for every big truck to pass. But a I arrive, get a key to the hostel and encounter, not unexpectedly, the French woman(Nadine from Loire Valley) from Pontenure town square. We agree to have a meal together. We don’t have a language in common so we use a translation app. She is from the lower Loire valley and knows of Le Puy-en-Velay in the upper Loire valley. The meal ends.

And so to our own beds.

day 33 bis London

In late February 2026 I booked air travel to London for a few days after Easter and bought travel insurance for UK, France, Switzerland and Italy.

On 17 March I started my last training walk for at least 14 km into Hutt central and possibly another 4 km to Petone. One km before Hutt central I stumbled. The bumps and scratches did my pride no good. However, the small team that instantly gathered to get me upright included two registered nurses: from their very professional concerns they called an ambulance resulting in a good check over at Hutt Hospital emergency department before sending me home. A week later I consulted my GP. After a check over, she advised going to London and “testing the water” so to speak and then make decision whether or not to go to Italy.

The journey up to Shanghai was uneventful. The journey from Shanghai to London was a sign of the times. On two previous trips througgh China, the "grest circle flight psth was used. This took me over, for exampoe, Ekatenburg and near Moscow before the descent into London. This time the flight wsd directly east across China and the 'Stans, then across the Caspian Sea about 100 km north of Iran to join whst the flight path would be if coming Saudi Arabia. And then heading for London.

In the two weeks since I have completed 10 of the 24 stages of the 244 km London Outer Orbital Path (LOOP) and a 20 km stage of Thames Path from Twickenham to Putney.

With some confidence I have booked a return to Piacenza, my last stop in 2023.

Like my efforts on LOOP, my daily stages between hostels in Italy will be less than 20 km.

I am now “resting’ in Hounslow for two days and taking in the local activities.

On Saturday, with my London based son, I plan to attend the ANZAC dawn parade at the NZ memorial at Hyde Park Corner.

Written at Hounslow on a sunny Thursday afternoon.

Day 33 bis Wellington

Now in early 2026: Looking back on my adventures in August and September 2023, I was content with the progress I had made down into Italy but disapointed a heavy cold prevented my going up to the Great Saint Bernard Pass. I was relaxed about the decision at the time and are looking how to include that into my 2026 adventures.

During 2024 and 2025 I kept up my regular routine of day walks and kept noting my stamina was holding back the distances achieved. I consulted the very helpful world wide community at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community. The response was very supportive and suggested I aim for not more than 20 km a day and in reality often less from one suitable hostel/backpack to the next. My indicative 2026 trip log from Piacenza to Sienna is built accordingly.

About 10 days ago I booked a flight (in early April) to London via Shangahi Pudong. I have yet to book a flight to Milan. And then by train to my start point Piacencza.

Then two days ago the US started "a war to end all wars", in the middle east at least!

Looking at the map, my flight from Shanghai should, literally, fly well above and north of any difficulties. But ...

In 2025, with 84 day trips around the Wellington region, I completed just over 1,400 km. I noted my speed when walking had dropped from a high of about 5.5 kph to around 5.1 (age does weary and the years do condemn). To hekp give me the best I consulted a personal trainer I first met in late 2023: the brief assist with stamina and tone my legs. After a week (five to go) the pace is about right and I am feeling very positive.

It is early morning as I write this, so I will rise and shine.

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy. Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well. Sockets to power or charge abound The trains keep to the timetable. And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away.

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view. And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up. Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible.

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month, I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common. From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle. And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837. Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place. This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road. And a lot is on roads, with or without houses. And, at times, the signage was very good. And at times it wasn't.

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance.

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania. His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s. He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism. Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation.

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings. But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks. Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits.

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.

Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
Sunday, 23 September
Orio Litta to Piacenza 24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
24 km for today
838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30. I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together.

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino. Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong. I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza.

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home. There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment.

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry. There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside, a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none.. I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery. As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business. No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon, I decide not to continue to Lucca. Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza. So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.

Day 32 - Pavia to Orio Litta

Day 32 - day 11 for 2023
Satuday, 22 September
Pavia to Orio Litta 36 km today - bus 14 - walking 22
778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023
36 km for today
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023)

l rise early so I can leave by 07h30.

The bus to Belgioioso leaves at 07h40 and I don't wish to miss it - the next is at 11h00.

I get off about 08h30 and look for a cash point and underway just after 09h.

I am on the roads because the official route (not the one created by Archbishop Sigeric) goes backwards and forwards and adding considerable distance in the process.

I am surprised by the many small retail shops selling cold water and similar. But I can feel my strength ebbing.

As today's journey nears its end there is a guy standing on my side of the r9as and waving at me. I stop: he has two questions -

Why aren't I on the official route? My answer - Archbishop Sigeric, no doubt keen to get back to Canterbury, would not have taken the now official route.

What does a Scotsman wear under the kilt? My answer - not telling.

I've almost got over the head cold acquired at Montreux more than a week ago. And I'm waking during the night and not getting back to sleep as much as I would like.

At last I come under a railway arch and there is thr church for Orio Litta less than 2 km. But the path is over 2.5 km to go.

I struggle with this information and the church never seems to get closer. But then I am there.

I goto to the vigil Eucharist for the Sunday.

And begin looking for accommodation for Sunday night in Piacenza.

And so to bed.