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day 40 - Cassio to Berceto - day 7 for 2026

Day 40 - day 7 for 2026
Sunday, 3 May 2026
Cassio to Berceto - 11 km today
940 km on my Via Francigena
11 km for today
951 km on my Via Francigena (115 km for 2026)

At 11 km this was expected to be a walk in the park. It turned out to be anything but.

Nadine and I agreed on a 07h start. Just before we set off, we take a photo of the far hills from the same spot we took a photo of the sun about to set behind the same hills.

We are off and I note our altitude is 840 metres above sea level (840 m asl).

We do not break any records for the 3 km to Cavazolla. Here the path leaves the road and enters a forest. The path has been well used by heavy vehicles and is deeply rutted with wster from the rains many days before adding an interesting feature. Our heads are downward looking. We catch up with a couple that had entered the forest a few minutes before us. We all ponder which of the branches ahead we should take. It is then ee notice we are well of route. We retrace our steps and after about 500 metres notice a very steep track to our left with a large Via Francigena sign pointing up.

Even in the Tararua mountains I have not encountered anything so steep. We rise from 760 m asl to over 900 m asl covering 1 km of distance emerging through a village to keep on rising. The pain continues. We rise just over 100 m of elevation but along narrow tracks with rubble generously strewn about making it hard for me to keep my balance.

A feature of this route is the many times we are taken up a hillock – I measure msny of them at over 1000 m asl. I have been this high only three times before – twice in the Tararua’s and once in the Pyrenees when crossing from France into Spain. Is is late Spring so the conditions are OK.

We find our hostel for the night and begin the wind down. I note we are 850 m asl and in the valley to the north, about 10 km away and only 200 m asl is the River Taro we crossed two afternoon ago on the entrance to Fornovo di Tsro.

We look for a meal about 19h (7pm) although it is Sunday and find Da Romano and a selection of about 20 pizza to choose from. We now have room mate who today has walked the 34 km from Fornovo and tomorrow will cross over the pass at 1100 m asl and begin the descent into Pontremoli, some 28 km all up.

Nadine and I decide to taxi to Pontremoli on Monday.

And so to our own beds.

day 39 - Fornovo de Taro to Cassio - day 6 for 2026

Day 39 - day 6 for 2026
Saturday, 2 May 2026
Fornovo di Taro to Cassio - 20 km today
920 km on my Via Francigena
20 km for today
940 km on my Via Francigena (102 km for 2026)

As there is much elevation gain (climbing) today we agree to set of at 06h30. We soon regret this as we pass a display telling, among other things the temperature: it is 6.0c.

We choose to take the road alternative as it avoids a straight up climb, only to come down the other side of the hill to meet the road we are on. The road is good with occasional traffic. As cars here drive on their right we normally walk on our left facing oncoming traffic, except we walk on the right (outer side of the curve) for a left hand bend.

About 10h we are Sivizzano and asking locals about accommodation. We had planned to stop for the night about 6 km further on. But current advise is there is no now accommodation there. We continue up the steep hill – we pause and the couple with the light gear arrive a few moments later – they had started 2 hours later so walking at twice our speed.

We continue up and take another pause. About 5 minutes latter a small FIAT looking like a mini stops and offers us a ride beyond our intention.

We are very grateful and accept. Cassio is a hidden gem of sorts. If just passing through you will see the 3 or 4 commercial endeavours. Hidden in a parallel street is flat limestone pavers and neat and tidy houses that are well presented. The hostel manager arrives and we check-in, get washing done, read books, arrange for Sunday night’s accommodation at Berceto and wait for a restaurant to open at 19h.

And so to our own beds.

day 38 - Mendesano to Fornovo di Taro - day 5 for 3026

Day 38 - day 5 for 2026
Friday, 1 May 2026 (May Dsy and a public holiday)
Medesano to Fornovo di Taro - 12 km today
908 km on my Via Francigena
12 km for today
920 km on my Via Francigena (82 km for 2026)

I rise at 06h and note that Richard and Eileen have already left.

Nadine messages to say she has set off from her stopping point at 06h30.

I pack and leave the hostel by about 07h and go to a nearby bar and coffee lounge, catch up with the news then walk to the EuroSpin (a largish Woolworths) at the far end if the village. My task is to find an adhesive to more or less permanently hold two pieces of my trekking pole together. They have nothing but suggest the “Chinese” shop closer to the village centre. The owner knows exactly what I need and shows me a variety of “feet” for someone’s poles. Continuing back towards the café I see another shop has just opened. I show the salesman my problem and hd shows me a tube of Uhu Glue. I retire to the steps outside thd hostel and make my repairs.

Now Nadine messages to say she is about 2 km away from Medesano. I walk slowly and we meet up. Coming back through Medesano we stop for a coffee.

We restart and find ourselves on a flat path that is well maintained for 6 km to the town of Felegara, where we stop for a bottle of water frizzante each.

The path towards Felegara in wide, flat and well used. After Felegara it passes through “bush” which gives shade from the sun.

Rested we take a path alongside a very wide river which we cannot see until we pass under a railway bridge. The banks are very far apart and the river bed is mainly gravel of mixed sizes and a few water courses making their way through. I am immediately reminded of the many braided rivers that come out of the southern alps across the Canterbury plain. And I recall reading that there are few braided rivers outside of Aotearoa-New Zealand. The source of this river (the Taro) is the nearby Appennine mountain range.

We are soon at the shared path bridge that leads across into Fornovo and the hostel for the night.

At the hostel we meet a couple that have walked from Fidenza (about 34 km) and on Saturday intend to walk to Berceto (about 34 km). I note they have very light-weight packs – wet-weather outers and not much else. They say their other gear is transported to them.

Nadine and I look for a meal and find an upper market pizza house with sit down clientele.

And so to bed.

day 37 - Fidenza to Mondesano - dsy 4 for 2026

Day 37 - day 4 for 2026
Thursday, 30 April
Fidenza to Mendesona – 22 km today by bus – no walking
886 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
908 km on my Via Francigena (70 km for 2026)

I have arranged for a 06h breakfast. I arrive at 05h45 and all is ready.

Nadine and I meet at the café we first encountered when we arrived at Fidenza yesterday. As the distance tomorrow is challenging for me we have agreed to stay in touch. But ee first walk to Fidenza Cathedral as it is part of the route and then walk about 3 km to the end the town. Nadine carries on and I return to the railway station to check out travel options.

The simplest is a bus to Mendesano, leaving at 13h20.

I fill in the near 5 hour wait by lounging in a series of café followed by a light lunch.

I now camp at the bus stop from 12h30 to see how things work. I check with another, local traveller that I am at the right place snd have the right ticket – he confirms. I check the buses as they arrive – do they have my route number and destination – nothing. A lsrge number of secondary students turn up and occupy their bus. Then I notice my friend race for a bus and talks with the driver then beckons me forward. Solely for school kids, I am ushered on.

About 40 minutes later the driver indicates my stop is coming up - I profusely thank him as I alight. I check my bearings and I am less than 100 metres from the parish hostel for tonight.

There to greet me are Eileen and Richard from two nights ago and in due course the parishioner on duty for today arrives snd checks us in.

In the meantime Nadine arrived at her hostel about 10 km further back.

I am sure Eileen and Richard will have a meal sussed in this biggish town.

And so to bed.

day 36 Fiorenzula d'Arda to Fidenza - day 3 for 2026

day 36 - day 3 for 2026
Wednesday, 29 April
Fiorenzuola d’Arda to Fidenza – 22 km today
864 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
886 km on my Via Francigena (48 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in front of the Cathedral at 07h and are off. Again she has her maps well trained and I follow behind. About 10 minutes later Nadine stumbles on the uneven paving blocks. No cuts or abrasions and she soon recovers – we set off lentement (slowly).

Today is again fields but with a difference – some are bare, some have long shallow runs for about 100 metres, some are having water pumped into these runnels, some have shoots about 100 mm high and others have growth beyond a metre. My guess is to stagger the effort for both irrigation drawdown and planting now in Spring and for cultivation in Autumn.

Our walking rate matches our years and I am content. Despite being well into the country side our first stop after 7 km for a mid morning break comes on the bright side of 09h We encounter 1 couple leaving as we arrive and a second couple arrive as we leave. So six of us underway and there was a couple leaving the cathedral area well before our departure time. So eight knowns so far.

Shortly before our lunch stop a relative youngster catches us. This is Lassie (as I heard his name, from Norway. We exchange pleasantries, including his departure time of 08h45, before he quickly disappears, as it seems, into the distance.

Lunch at Castione Marchesi had a promise of goodness as at least two restaurants are shown on the map, but it is not to be. We do find a bake house that does ginormous pizza – one just orders the size you want cut off. The manager does us proud and set up a table and two chairs out of the sun ans it is 12h30. We have done OK for 15 km.

When we are done and ready to push-off it is 12h15. The heat of the day is getting to us both and we stop for a 30 minute siesta in a shaded place. The heat is slowing us both down and we find reasons to stop under trees to check our maps against the Via Francigena signs.

At about 15h30 we arrive at a cafe and enjoy a made on the spot orange juice and “frizzante” water before going to our respective lodgings.

And so to bed.

day 35 Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d'Arda - day 2 for 2026

Day 35 - day 2 for 2026
Tuesday 28 April
Cadeo to Fiorenzuola d’Arda - 13 km today
851 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
864 km on my Via Francigena (26 km for 2026)

Nadine and I meet in the town square at 07h and are soon off. She has her mops well trained and I follow behind. She signals the turns well beforehand and Via Francigena stickers confirm. At 07h there is quite a bit of traffic on these back country roads and we stand on the edge (and even off when there is passing traffic). When walking in country areas at home I use the one finger salute and get a good response. Here I use a wave of the palm and are getting a very good response.

Today is, like Monday, as flat as a pancake. But to my right I can see the Pennine range. At this place it reminds me of the Tararua Range when coming down from Woodville to Greytown – there but not menacing – I take several photos to remind me.

There were two major items on the walk today – both were river crossings.

The first was quite benign: slow flowing clear shallow with a good base – easy peasy but still take care.

The second was a different kettle of fish:: faster with a sticky muddy base and muddy approaches. I was very pleased to have Nadine with me.

We were in Fiorenzuola d’Arda by 10h30 with a few micro pauses. After some orange drinks we inspect the cathedral. I then find my hostel and check-in. Then stay with Nadine until her check-some two hours later.

Time for a kip, a search for dried fruit and a lie down.

Eileen comes into my room. She is an Australian from Sydney walking with her husbsnd. They started at Aosta several weeks sgo. She invites me to join them for a meal. Another pilgrim, Lassie is what I hear, from Norway. The only place open is a pizerria and between we demolish two and drink each. On our return thirst again strikes us and we find a bar near the cathedral before returning to our rooms

And so to my bed.

day 34 Piacenza to Cadeo - day 1 for 2026

Monday, 27 April
Piacenza to Cadeo - 13 km today
838 km on my Via Francigena
13 km for today
851 km on my Via Francigena (13 km for 2026)

I am back on the road at last

To get here from London included attendance at the ANZAC Day service at 5 am at Hyde Park Corner, a barbie at the home of my London based son, his partner and my grandson before going to Gatwick for the 2 hour flight to Milan. The train to Piacenza (my restart point) had me seeing the sights I missed in 2023.

My accommodation is but 300 metres from the Via Francigena route to Rome. This is quite new with a good set up and E24 for the night.

Monday up, breakfasted and off just after 07h. As always, with the sun to the south, way finding can be check and check and check again. This time I had a major land based feature, the railway line always on my left both on the map and in reality.

After 6 km the only choice was the major SS9 highway: one lane in each direction and a barely adequate shoulder with some rough to use when large trucks rolled past. But well before 10h I arrive at Pontenure for morning coffee, church visit, note a new (2026) memorial “Ai Caduti “ (to the fallen), lunch break, encounter a French pilgrim (who is staying at the same hostel as me tonight), afternoon coffee before setting off with the sun behind me. The last 4 kilometres are also on the SS9 and takes a while. I stop for every big truck to pass. But a I arrive, get a key to the hostel and encounter, not unexpectedly, the French woman(Nadine from Loire Valley) from Pontenure town square. We agree to have a meal together. We don’t have a language in common so we use a translation app. She is from the lower Loire valley and knows of Le Puy-en-Velay in the upper Loire valley. The meal ends.

And so to our own beds.

day 33 bis London

In late February 2026 I booked air travel to London for a few days after Easter and bought travel insurance for UK, France, Switzerland and Italy.

On 17 March I started my last training walk for at least 14 km into Hutt central and possibly another 4 km to Petone. One km before Hutt central I stumbled. The bumps and scratches did my pride no good. However, the small team that instantly gathered to get me upright included two registered nurses: from their very professional concerns they called an ambulance resulting in a good check over at Hutt Hospital emergency department before sending me home. A week later I consulted my GP. After a check over, she advised going to London and “testing the water” so to speak and then make decision whether or not to go to Italy.

The journey up to Shanghai was uneventful. The journey from Shanghai to London was a sign of the times. On two previous trips througgh China, the "grest circle flight psth was used. This took me over, for exampoe, Ekatenburg and near Moscow before the descent into London. This time the flight wsd directly east across China and the 'Stans, then across the Caspian Sea about 100 km north of Iran to join whst the flight path would be if coming Saudi Arabia. And then heading for London.

In the two weeks since I have completed 10 of the 24 stages of the 244 km London Outer Orbital Path (LOOP) and a 20 km stage of Thames Path from Twickenham to Putney.

With some confidence I have booked a return to Piacenza, my last stop in 2023.

Like my efforts on LOOP, my daily stages between hostels in Italy will be less than 20 km.

I am now “resting’ in Hounslow for two days and taking in the local activities.

On Saturday, with my London based son, I plan to attend the ANZAC dawn parade at the NZ memorial at Hyde Park Corner.

Written at Hounslow on a sunny Thursday afternoon.

Day 33 bis Wellington

Now in early 2026: Looking back on my adventures in August and September 2023, I was content with the progress I had made down into Italy but disapointed a heavy cold prevented my going up to the Great Saint Bernard Pass. I was relaxed about the decision at the time and are looking how to include that into my 2026 adventures.

During 2024 and 2025 I kept up my regular routine of day walks and kept noting my stamina was holding back the distances achieved. I consulted the very helpful world wide community at https://www.caminodesantiago.me/community. The response was very supportive and suggested I aim for not more than 20 km a day and in reality often less from one suitable hostel/backpack to the next. My indicative 2026 trip log from Piacenza to Sienna is built accordingly.

About 10 days ago I booked a flight (in early April) to London via Shangahi Pudong. I have yet to book a flight to Milan. And then by train to my start point Piacencza.

Then two days ago the US started "a war to end all wars", in the middle east at least!

Looking at the map, my flight from Shanghai should, literally, fly well above and north of any difficulties. But ...

In 2025, with 84 day trips around the Wellington region, I completed just over 1,400 km. I noted my speed when walking had dropped from a high of about 5.5 kph to around 5.1 (age does weary and the years do condemn). To hekp give me the best I consulted a personal trainer I first met in late 2023: the brief assist with stamina and tone my legs. After a week (five to go) the pace is about right and I am feeling very positive.

It is early morning as I write this, so I will rise and shine.

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy. Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well. Sockets to power or charge abound The trains keep to the timetable. And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away.

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view. And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up. Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible.

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month, I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common. From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle. And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837. Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place. This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road. And a lot is on roads, with or without houses. And, at times, the signage was very good. And at times it wasn't.

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance.

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania. His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s. He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism. Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation.

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings. But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks. Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits.

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.

Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
Sunday, 23 September
Orio Litta to Piacenza 24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
24 km for today
838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30. I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together.

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino. Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong. I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza.

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home. There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment.

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry. There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside, a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none.. I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery. As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business. No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon, I decide not to continue to Lucca. Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza. So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.