.: May 2026

day 40 - Cassio to Berceto - day 7 for 2026

Day 40 - day 7 for 2026
Sunday, 3 May 2026
Cassio to Berceto - 11 km today
940 km on my Via Francigena
11 km for today
951 km on my Via Francigena (115 km for 2026)

At 11 km this was expected to be a walk in the park. It turned out to be anything but.

Nadine and I agreed on a 07h start. Just before we set off, we take a photo of the far hills from the same spot we took a photo of the sun about to set behind the same hills.

We are off and I note our altitude is 840 metres above sea level (840 m asl).

We do not break any records for the 3 km to Cavazolla. Here the path leaves the road and enters a forest. The path has been well used by heavy vehicles and is deeply rutted with wster from the rains many days before adding an interesting feature. Our heads are downward looking. We catch up with a couple that had entered the forest a few minutes before us. We all ponder which of the branches ahead we should take. It is then ee notice we are well of route. We retrace our steps and after about 500 metres notice a very steep track to our left with a large Via Francigena sign pointing up.

Even in the Tararua mountains I have not encountered anything so steep. We rise from 760 m asl to over 900 m asl covering 1 km of distance emerging through a village to keep on rising. The pain continues. We rise just over 100 m of elevation but along narrow tracks with rubble generously strewn about making it hard for me to keep my balance.

A feature of this route is the many times we are taken up a hillock – I measure msny of them at over 1000 m asl. I have been this high only three times before – twice in the Tararua’s and once in the Pyrenees when crossing from France into Spain. Is is late Spring so the conditions are OK.

The descent into Berceto is quite rapid, dropping 200 m of elevation over less than 2 km.

We find our hostel for the night and begin the wind down.

We will look for a meal about 19h (7pm) although it is Sunday ...

And so to our own beds.

day 39 - Fornovo de Taro to Cassio - day 6 for 2026

Day 39 - day 6 for 2026
Saturday, 2 May 2026
Fornovo di Taro to Cassio - 20 km today
920 km on my Via Francigena
20 km for today
940 km on my Via Francigena (102 km for 2026)

As there is much elevation gain (climbing) today we agree to set of at 06h30. We soon regret this as we pass a display telling, among other things the temperature: it is 6.0c.

We choose to take the road alternative as it avoids a straight up climb, only to come down the other side of the hill to meet the road we are on. The road is good with occasional traffic. As cars here drive on their right we normally walk on our left facing oncoming traffic, except we walk on the right (outer side of the curve) for a left hand bend.

About 10h we are Sivizzano and asking locals about accommodation. We had planned to stop for the night about 6 km further on. But current advise is there is no now accommodation there. We continue up the steep hill – we pause and the couple with the light gear arrive a few moments later – they had started 2 hours later so walking at twice our speed.

We continue up and take another pause. About 5 minutes latter a small FIAT looking like a mini stops and offers us a ride beyond our intention.

We are very grateful and accept. Cassio is a hidden gem of sorts. If just passing through you will see the 3 or 4 commercial endeavours. Hidden in a parallel street is flat limestone pavers and neat and tidy houses that are well presented. The hostel manager arrives and we check-in, get washing done, read books, arrange for Sunday night’s accommodation at Berceto and wait for a restaurant to open at 19h.

And so to our own beds.

day 38 - Mendesano to Fornovo di Taro - day 5 for 3026

Day 38 - day 5 for 2026
Friday, 1 May 2026 (May Dsy and a public holiday)
Medesano to Fornovo di Taro - 12 km today
908 km on my Via Francigena
12 km for today
920 km on my Via Francigena (82 km for 2026)

I rise at 06h and note that Richard and Eileen have already left.

Nadine messages to say she has set off from her stopping point at 06h30.

I pack and leave the hostel by about 07h and go to a nearby bar and coffee lounge, catch up with the news then walk to the EuroSpin (a largish Woolworths) at the far end if the village. My task is to find an adhesive to more or less permanently hold two pieces of my trekking pole together. They have nothing but suggest the “Chinese” shop closer to the village centre. The owner knows exactly what I need and shows me a variety of “feet” for someone’s poles. Continuing back towards the café I see another shop has just opened. I show the salesman my problem and hd shows me a tube of Uhu Glue. I retire to the steps outside thd hostel and make my repairs.

Now Nadine messages to say she is about 2 km away from Medesano. I walk slowly and we meet up. Coming back through Medesano we stop for a coffee.

We restart and find ourselves on a flat path that is well maintained for 6 km to the town of Felegara, where we stop for a bottle of water frizzante each.

The path towards Felegara in wide, flat and well used. After Felegara it passes through “bush” which gives shade from the sun.

Rested we take a path alongside a very wide river which we cannot see until we pass under a railway bridge. The banks are very far apart and the river bed is mainly gravel of mixed sizes and a few water courses making their way through. I am immediately reminded of the many braided rivers that come out of the southern alps across the Canterbury plain. And I recall reading that there are few braided rivers outside of Aotearoa-New Zealand. The source of this river (the Taro) is the nearby Appennine mountain range.

We are soon at the shared path bridge that leads across into Fornovo and the hostel for the night.

At the hostel we meet a couple that have walked from Fidenza (about 34 km) and on Saturday intend to walk to Berceto (about 34 km). I note they have very light-weight packs – wet-weather outers and not much else. They say their other gear is transported to them.

Nadine and I look for a meal and find an upper market pizza house with sit down clientele.

And so to bed.

day 37 - Fidenza to Mondesano - dsy 4 for 2026

Day 37 - day 4 for 2026
Thursday, 30 April
Fidenza to Mendesona – 22 km today by bus – no walking
886 km on my Via Francigena
22 km for today
908 km on my Via Francigena (70 km for 2026)

I have arranged for a 06h breakfast. I arrive at 05h45 and all is ready.

Nadine and I meet at the café we first encountered when we arrived at Fidenza yesterday. As the distance tomorrow is challenging for me we have agreed to stay in touch. But ee first walk to Fidenza Cathedral as it is part of the route and then walk about 3 km to the end the town. Nadine carries on and I return to the railway station to check out travel options.

The simplest is a bus to Mendesano, leaving at 13h20.

I fill in the near 5 hour wait by lounging in a series of café followed by a light lunch.

I now camp at the bus stop from 12h30 to see how things work. I check with another, local traveller that I am at the right place snd have the right ticket – he confirms. I check the buses as they arrive – do they have my route number and destination – nothing. A lsrge number of secondary students turn up and occupy their bus. Then I notice my friend race for a bus and talks with the driver then beckons me forward. Solely for school kids, I am ushered on.

About 40 minutes later the driver indicates my stop is coming up - I profusely thank him as I alight. I check my bearings and I am less than 100 metres from the parish hostel for tonight.

There to greet me are Eileen and Richard from two nights ago and in due course the parishioner on duty for today arrives snd checks us in.

In the meantime Nadine arrived at her hostel about 10 km further back.

I am sure Eileen and Richard will have a meal sussed in this biggish town.

And so to bed.