Day 33 bis London

Day 33 bis London

I am in awe of trains that I have seen in France, Switzerland and Italy.  Generally the carriages up relatively new, and those that aren't work just as well.  Sockets to power or charge abound  The trains keep to the timetable.  And they are full.

And the Monday journey, first to Milano and then Bergamo (an airport for Milano with 24 gates) is no exception.

At the gate there are large windows showing off the European Alps: they are not that far away. 

As it happens, the plane gives us a marvelous view.  And then I notice we will fly just south of the Great Saint-Bernard Pass. And I am on the right hand side and have a marvellous view down the valley I didn’t walk up.  Also to view are the mighty Rhone River with the icy blue colour from the limestone worn out of the surrounding hills. And the very narrow gap between the hills at Saint-Maurice is fleetingly visible. 

The large tllow or brown fields of France yell agriculture at me.

And the smaller green fields strongly suggest pastoral pursuits, although seldom do I spot livestock of any sort.

After three weeks in Europe there is time for a clean up.

Then, Wednesday through to Sunday and Monday morning, I'm on the trail again. On arrival earlier in the month,  I had completed part of a route called Capital Ring from Woolwich towards Crystal Palace and on to Wandsworth Common.  From Wednesday I continue around this route formed on the basis of being about 16 km (10 miles) from Big Ben.

At one point, in Richmond Park, at the locality named King Henry VIII mound there is a telescope to pull closer things such as Windsor Castle.  And to see the Tower of Saint Paul's Cathedral exactly 10 miles away: the telescope is about 80 metres above sea level and so is the mid-point of the tower.

Foe me, a high point of the journey was to see the low brick arched railway viaduct built by Isambarb Kingdom Brunel about 1837.  Until that time bridges were typically semicircular with a keystone top centre to keep the other stones in the arch from slipping out of place.  This bridge had relatively flat arches without a keystone: and nearly 200 years later is still part of the mainline from Paddington Station to the west of England. And is heavily used each and every day. In my short time near the bridge there was a train movement every 30 seconds or so.

A lot of Capital Ring is in green areas, somtimes divided by a busy road.  And a lot is on roads, with or without houses.  And, at times, the signage was very good.  And at times it wasn't. 

On the bush rich (trees and shrubs) hills it was common to see only more bush rich hills as far as the eye could reach with only a few tallish buildings visible now and again.  

Down in the streets only more houses etc could be seen. So I played my game of guess the age, quality of build and of maintenance. 

Of all the people I encountered, two are still clear to me nearly a fortnight on.

The first, an Orthodox priest from Romania.  His community had use of a former parish church, superceded by a rebuild from London in the 1930s.  He was preparing for a Eucharist and Baptism.  Noticing the many icons distributed around, my words about Mary only being pictured with Jesus (and not alone) brought a smile of appreciation. 

The other, together with a mate, were waiting near Welsh Harp Reservoir for someone to guide them on a walk through the local nature that would help with their mental health.

The last full day on Capital Ring route was nearly all "country side".

Firstly part of the Lea Valley Walk: the canal and then the river were filled up boats of all sorts and conditions - most looked as though they were not lived on or even moved - a small handful had sunk at their moorings.  But, then activity: a narrow boat on the move. A few moments later I was speaking with the owner who said she and her partner did live on their boat.

Secondly The Greeway: a 5 plus km walkway atop a sewage pipe built in in mid to late 1800s and still very much in use. The early stages took me past the Olympic Stadium (now the base for West Ham United Football club).

I returned on the Monday to complete the last few km back into Woolwich.  

This involved navigating the now ancient lock gates for the Royal Prince Albert and King George V docks.  Massive additions to shipping in their day: the water side areas are host to a university, a significant airport and water based outdoor pursuits. 

And walking under the Thames by the foot tunnel: I was thankful for the lift on the Woolwich side.

Day 33 - Orio Litta to Piacenza

• Day 33 - day 12 for 2023
• Sunday, 23 September  
• Orio Litta to Piacenza   24 km today - 7km boat - 17 km walked
• 814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023
•   24 km for today
• 838 km on my Via Francigena (326 km for 2023)

The night before, I am told another group has booked the ferryman for 08h30.  I am up early so I can make the distance (about 4 km) without panic - I am there a good 20 minutes before time.  

The other group, husband, wife and friend are late 60s, early 70s, from France and have completed many pilgrimages together. 

The ferryman arrives and has been told there is a New Zealander today: he turns his cap around to show the Rugby World Cup insignia: I am non-committal.

This is the mighty Po River, the same Po River I walked beside at Torino.   Even though the banks are far apart, the flow is quite strong.  I suspect any Pooh stick dropped in the River at Torino a week ago would have swept past this point not long after.

As we go down the river I am taken by the flat land to the left (north and northeast) and the Pennine hills to the right.  

I have a decision to make - whether to carry on over those hills for about 10 to 12 days to a major pilgrimage  town of Lucca - or whether to stop at Piacenza. 

The river journey is tranquil. On disembarking, Danilo (the ferryman) takes us a short distance to his home.  There we complete his register and are soon on our way on top of the flood protection embankment. 

The village of Calendasco comes up soon enough and time to have a coffee and pastry.  There seems to be some local celebration today with a local policemen in attendance.

There is little shade and the day is warming up. The rest of the journey is 7 km or so in rural countryside,  a bridge ove a major tributary to the Po and 7 km or so trudge through Piacenza.

The night before I had emailed three hostels with a response from none..  I go to the address for one and find a church and nunnery.  As I am trying the phone numbers a car enters and the occupants, in a kindly way, ask my business.  No, it is no longer a hostel and if I can book a hotel room, they will take me there - done.  

In the walk through Piacenza earlier that afternoon,  I decide not to continue to Lucca.  Rather, I decide to go to London and make some of the UK trips on my list.

The hotel is at the eastern side of Piacenza.  So a side trip to a restaurant is in order.

And so to bed.

Day 32 - Pavia to Orio Litta

• Day 32 - day 11 for 2023
• Satuday, 22 September  
• Pavia to Orio Litta   36 km today - bus 14 - walking 22
• 778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023
•    36 km for today
• 814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023)

l rise early so I can leave by 07h30.

The bus to Belgioioso leaves at 07h40 and I don't wish to miss it - the next is at 11h00.

I get off about 08h30 and look for a cash point and underway just after 09h.

I am on the roads because the official route (not the one created by Archbishop Sigeric) goes backwards and forwards and adding considerable distance in the process. 

I am surprised by the many small retail shops selling cold water and similar.  But I can feel my strength ebbing.

As today's journey nears its end there is a guy standing on my side of the r9as and waving at me.  I stop: he has two questions - 

Why aren't I on the official route? My answer - Archbishop Sigeric, no doubt keen to get back to Canterbury, would not have taken the now official route.

What does a Scotsman wear under the kilt? My answer - not telling. 

I've almost got over the head cold acquired at Montreux more than a week ago. And I'm waking during the night and not getting back to sleep as much as I would like.

At last I come under a railway arch and there is thr church for Orio Litta less than 2 km.  But the path is over 2.5 km to go.

I struggle with this information and the church never seems to get closer.  But then I am there.

I goto to the vigil Eucharist for the Sunday.

And begin looking for accommodation for Sunday night in Piacenza.

And so to bed.

Day 31 - Tromello to Pavia

• Day 31 - day 10 for 2023
• Friday, 22 September  
• Tremello to Pavia
• 751 km to Day 29                      (239 km for 2023)
•   27 km for today     all by train
• 778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023)

l want to be on the road early today as its a longish distance and the days are getting warm again. 

My hostess has left a nice variety in the hostel kitchen.  The whole of the top floor is devoted to the hostel with four beds.  And I have been the, b only resident this past evening. 

I over imbibe and am out the door just after sunrise. 

I have gone about 30 minutes when I notice a railway level crossing.  I reach for my camera: it's not in my shoulder bag nor in my pockets. I double check and start heading back to the village. 

Conundrum: 

I can't knock on the front door as its about 20 metres from the locked gate.  

cannot ring.

I walk about the town and notice both the local train station and the local police offce.

I enter the police station and between them, they recognize the property and within 30 minutes my phone and I are united

The second part of the conundrum is can I reach Pavia, the next town and where I have booked a bed for the night.

I choose what I am sure Archbishop Sigeric would have chosen, the current version of a fast horse.  One thing I have noticed about European railway systems: there is almost no noise of buffering when a train goes over points, turnouts, call then what you will.

I am at the accommodation, about 2km to the east of the rail station in Pavia by 13h and spend the afternoon looking around the central city..  A lot is relatively new. The old is the University and the churches.  What seems quite new is a statue of Pavia: you can do your own research. 

For the Saturday I have decided to bus about 10 km to Belgioioso and walk my more direct version of 20 km to Orio Litta.

 At Belgioioso I gave trouble locating the bank and its ATM (or BancoMat). So, I go into the cade across the busy road.  Coming out after coffee and a Pastry, I can see the signs clearly - when walking past on a 600 mm wide footpath,  the detail get lost in the need to look at my feet and not take in the bigger picture.  

The distance is about 20 km and I am surprised how many refreshment stops there are.

While making progress, the heat is, for me, very tiring.

The official path and I coincide at a bridge slightly more than 2 km to my destination.  The whole time the destination is clearly visible, but my energy is fast fading. 

I make the hostel and made very welcome.  I get a wash of the days clothes, go to a vigil eucharist and a pasta with tomato sauce and basil.

Before sleep overtakes me, I look at the accommodation and fire off some emails.

And so to bed.

day 30 - Robbio to Tremello

• Day 30 - day 9 for 2023
• Thursday, 21 September  
• Robbio to Tremello
• 723 km to Day 29                       (211 km for 2023)
•   28 km for today
• 751 km on my Via Francigena (239 km for 2023)

I rise about 06h and leave the Community hostel about 07h30, having heated and eaten a cachet of Rizzoli integrale.

The route to Mortara will follow the Via Francigena route almost exactly.  Simple explanation: it is shorter than the road by about 6 km or about 90 fewer minutes walking. 

Surprise: most of the road is sealed and the unsealed bits are not rough, so the going is good. 

On both sides I see crops of not great height.  I am reminded of wheat, but this is much shorter.  And there is an abundance on water reticulation channels.

About 09h is Nicorvo and a café and the first coffee of the day. Near the counter are vacuum sealed packs of rice.  Looking at the owner I point at the packs and then sweep my hand around.  He nods expressively, and sweeps his hand around also.  On leaving the village, I go into the chapel and say the morning office. 

The flat road entices me back and the town of Albanese comes up about 10h30.  Time for a quick cold drink and back on the sealed road to Mortara.

The roads are generally good and the traffic generally light.   So, I practice my wave and get many good responses. 

Then someone stops and, using a translation app, asks if I need assistance. I tell him what I am doing and the reaction and he is content.

Mortara comes up before 12 noon and I am soon seated with a large cappuccino and brioche marmelittia.

Here I look at accommodation for tonight in Tremello and ring one. We talk in simple terms, I am booked in and please be here by 16h.  It is 12 km and I have about 3 hours.

Before setting off a bottle of Moretti is called for.

I make good progress, a car stops: the occupants want to know about the kilt and offer me a ride to Tremello.  We chat on the way and I arrive.

From the works of art on the walls, the lady owner has some skills.  The property is named The House of the Nocciolo.

I do another wash, of today's clothes, and have a meal.

My choice of restart, Vercelli, could not have been better.

And so to bed.

Day 29 - Vercelli to Robbio

• Day 29 - day 8 for 2023
• Wedneday, 20 September  
• Vercelli to Robbio
• 705 km to Day 28
•   18 km for today
• 723 km on my Via Francigena (211 km for 2023)

I rise about 04h and leave the Combo hostel at about 05h walking Via XX September to Torino Porta Nuova train station. 

I arrive about 30 minutes later and soon find my departure platform.  Over three travel days,  I have found TrenItalia runs on a lot of passenger trust.  While I have an e-ticket for each stage, I have never been asked for it.

The train I have selected on arrival, actually departs at 05h54 - my ticket was for the departure at 06h54.  I arrive at Vercelli at 07h and I follow the VF route on my map to the eastern outskirts of town and the last and only open café so far.

My route initially is on road, then an outback agricultural service road.  I find the largish stones of this route, as anywhere, hard to walk on.  After about 12 km I encounter the town of Palestro (site of a largish battle in 1859 between Austria and a combined Sardinian (Torino) and French force - commemorated in the town square and on leaving eastwards).

To my destination for the day, Robbio, I walk the remainder on the road. I do my customary salute to oncoming motorists and have a very high response rate.

I come to the town council offices as they have a donativo apartment with five beds.  I am the only resident so far today and the log book suggest 2 or 3 users a week.

I wash a top, the front of my kilt and some smalls and put them on the drying frame outside.  The warm light breeze should do the trick.

After a brief look around, I repair to the bar across the road for a birra, brioche and trumpet ice cream. 

And to write these trip notes.

After a brief rest find a pizzeria that does other stuff,  so have a salad entirely of sea food.

At the end tell the owner the Maui and the fish story.  He seemed suitably impressed, maybe as he was of an age to have young children and looking for fresh things.

And so to bed.

Day 28 bis - transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino

• Day 28 bis - day 7 for 2023
• Saturday, 16  to Tuesday, 19 September 2023
• transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino
• 705 km to Day 28
•     0 km for this transfer
• 705 km on my Via Francigena

Saturday, 16 September - Saint-Maurice to Milano

The Abbey hostel provides a simple breakfast of coffee, bread with confiture and cheese which all six of us enjoy.

Three are moving on today with the couple staying another night.

Today I start the process of bypassing, for now, the 2,000 metre climb over 5 days to the Great Saint-Bernard Pass and several days down the other side.

I have arranged to sit in the reception room of the Abbey during the morning.  I have decided to spend the time getting my trip notes up to date and almost succeed. I reward myself with a coffee and girella.

I am on the platform for almost an hour before departure and see a variety of train operations.  A Portugese man and I talk for about 5 minutes about the kilt and what we are each doing before he and his Brazilian wife go to their train. 

My train goes across the bottom half of Switzerland, starting in Geneva with Brig at the other end.  There we change to a train that takes us through the 1921 Simplon Tunnel to Domodossla, by bus to Stresa and then a stop start train (for stations and other events) to Milano. 

During this journey we change from announcements in French, German and Italian and from relative consideration for others to gentle pushing and queue hopping by young and old alike.

As the day moves on I keep adding a layer.  My head cold with a slight temperature has not improved.   And the 90 minute wait (20 was scheduled) in line at the Domodossla bus station has not helped. On arrival at Milano at about 21h I feel like a mental and physical cot case.  And I have yet to get to the hostel. It is about 2km walking or 2 metro subway stops and 500 metres walking. Getting to the metro platform is a major task in itself. 

At the hostel, the reception staff are very gracious and considerate.  In particular, without prompting,  the receptionist hand prints the things I need to know. I am so grateful and thank him most warmly.  And I relax.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Sunday, 17 September - walk about Milano

I have my short list and ask the reception for others.  I soon have a list, again with hand printed notes for the Metro.

In daylight and with some sleep I navigate the Metro with a bit more ease and am soon at Duomo (or Cathedral).  I enter the side reserved for prayer, to say the morning office and, before a painting of Mary and Jesus as a toddler, light three candles - for my youngest son Timothy (2002), for Cathy (2014) and for Sue (2023).

Victor Emmanuel II arcade is a must walk through to see the people seeing the people.

Coffee calls and so does the Museum for Teatro di la Scala. The museum has some items of interest.  But most fascinating for me is the opportunity to stand in the dozen or so boxes open as part of the visit and try to imagine 8 people seated in pairs viewing the performance.  And a scale model shows the audience have but a small part of the complex. The large orchestra pit, the large sloping stage, most of which can descend well below street level to present spectacular moments, the flying area above the stage, the massive area behind the stage, the various dressing rooms above - it just goes on and on.   Built in 1778 and going strong nearly 250 years later.

Back to Milano today and walking I note a restaurant doing a grand trade and wait in the queue for a table for one.  Pasta caarbonnara is good and so is the salad.

I continue walking and arrive back at Garibaldi Station. Now to find Navgli, the area for the last canal in Milano.  I find two: the suburb and park then the canal itself with people all over the bridge to the open air market street beyond.  While people do push in, there is also just as much standing back.

And so to bed for this lay day

Monday, 18 September - Milano to Torino

I make porridge breakfast and leave about 08h30.  it will take well under 30 minutes to get to the station.  About the same to have a coffee and my train has come up on the board with its platform number. Within 30 minutes we are stopped, at Milano Centosa.  During what will be a 3 hour wait I go for a walk outside the station, pass a farmacia and buy some Paracetamol.  An hour later the six passengers remaining are told what to do.  As a group we stay together, including me and a Lithuanian, until we are on the train to Torino. 

I walk the 2 km to my hostel passing normal late afternoon activities in central Torino.  The hostel is large and well appointed. I have a meat and veg meal which is enjoyable. 

And so to bed for this lay day.

Tuesday, 19 September  - Torino 

Up early to start this four day section and have breakfast.

Away into Torino, passing the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Reale, and Mole, the worlds highest brick building and former synagogue and coffee and muffin. Down via Giuseppe Verdi (being refurbished for pedestrians) and the reasonably fast flowing Po River  especially as it comes over a Weir at this point.

Encounter memorials to Victor Emmanuel I, King of Sardinia and Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy.

(Some day the composer Giuseppe Verdi started life with some other surname. And later changed to Verdi to show loyalty to Victor Emmanuel Rex and Duce di Italia (King and Leader of Italy).

I see a Decatholon store and go in to see why North Americans on the Santiago forum think so highly of it.  Walking shoes are of interest and I see something to follow up on when the rime is right.

I look about two weeks ahead from my restart point of Vercelli and feel reinvigorated. And the head cold is easing off and there are several trains for early Wednesday morning. 

And so to bed for this lay day.

Day 28 Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune

• Day 28 - day 7 for 2023
• Friday, 15 September 2023
• Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune
• 691 km to yesterday
•   14 km today
• 705 km on my Via Francigena

The hotel has breakfast in the standard manner.  I go down shortly after 06h30 to be greeted by at least 10 cops in undress uniform.  Clearly not as upmarket as the price might indicate to lesser mortals from way down under.  As I sit down, I notice they are in three distinct groups.  Two from the Swiss railway system, four sitting together are Polizia and another group are Police according, respectively, to the words on their t-shirts. About 30 minutes later a slightly older one changes places and a few moments later, on some signal, they all rise and leave together. I have as much cereal as seems reasonable and leave a bit later.

There is no rush today: it is only 13 km.  And, I think, the shortest stage I have done started with. I emailed the Abbey's gite d'etape the day before and got confirmation of a place.

After about an hour, I am beside the quite wide Rhone River.  I am at once struck how fast it flows and by the milky-green colour.  The latter I guess is from the continuous washing of limestone from the hills.  But the speed of the water is not directly explicable: it hasn't rained for some time and the spring snow melt was also some time ago

Another slow hour and I see a sign for a café just the other side of a 20 metre wide long line of bush that has kept me company.

I go down and almost immediately make a fool of myself: my tiredness or whatever and I have accidentally tipped most of the coffee over me and the table.  I tidy up as best I can. And get another cup. I catch up on the news,  reflect on my tiredness, suspect I might have a temperature and eventually move on.

Five kilometres to go and I am struggling. Yes it is warm, but low 20s and not the high 20s, low 30s of the weekend. 

I decide to not attempt, at this time, any more of the route through Switzerland and especially not look at the route beyond Martigny. Instead I form the intention of transferring to Milano on Saturday, spend Sunday looking around.  To have the same pattern for Torino and then return to Via Francigena from Vercelli. 

I struggle into Saint-Maurice, drop my pack, say the morning office in the Abbey's church and go and get coffee and pastry.

Tonight's gite (hostel) residents are gathering. We are a couple from Melbourne (35 years married), two solo Scots, a French speaker and me.

The Community eucharist is at 18h.  The celebrant is relatively young while the remainder of the community are quite old priests.  As today celebrates the birth of Mary, they are habited in alb with a soft (Mary) blue stole. The chanting of the psalms and canticles by the community and others in choir is soothing to hear.

I make the travel and accommodation arrangements. 

And so to bed.

Day 27 Montreux to Aigle

• Day 27 - day 6 for 2023
• Thursday, 14 September 2023
• Montreux to Aigle
• 675 km to yesterday
•   16 km today
• 691 km on my Via Francigena

The hostel has breakfast in the standard manner and I imbibe.

As I set off, Henrietta and I wish one another well.

It is but 5 km along the side of Lac Leman.  While I am coming to the eastern end, the Lac stretches all the way back to Geneva at the western end.  There is much to see along the lakeside at this hour and many things capture my attention as I pass and some I even stop for.  Like many European towns I have encountered before, one aspect is defences against marauding intruders.

Shortly after leaving the Lac, I am at the town of Villeneuve.  It is shortly after 09h and the downtown area I am in is bustling.

I quickly find a wonderful café doing a roaring trade.  What was pain-au-raisin on Tuesday morning at Hopiteaux du Neufs has stayed the same visually and physically but is now called escargot - very much more exciting to be eating a snail.

My intention today is Aigle.

Across the road from the café is what, very much from the outside, looks like as a church.  I enter to say the morning office and find I have entered the town administration offices and, in particular,  The Information (Tourist) Office.  The lovely lady agrees to phone the two or three lower priced accommodation properties. One say she has a bed not "sold" and please use the nominated booking agent. I do that to find "nothing available".  The other properties do not respond.  Ah well!  

While waiting and using a map, I point out some land in the south west Pacific that look like a fish, with the mouth being near where I live.  The story of Maui, his brothers and the upturned waka goes down well. (as also happened at Romainmotier and Montreux, and as will also happen at Milano - and at each I also explain the farewell on parting - kia kaha).

As no response from the other properties of forthcoming, I bid kia kaha and set off for Aigle, now quite late in the morning. .

After another hour or so, I pass through Roche and pass by what looks like a grand restaurant doing a good trade also. I settle in and enjoy a tres bon large "small salad please".  And a glass of wine, s"il vous plait.

Again I surrender myself to the way.  I am definitely in the final reaches of the Rhone Valley in Switzerland.  Like the Waikato and Lake Taupo, the Rhone passes through Lac Leman to continue from Geneva through France and emerge into the Mediterranean. But I don't see any of that today.

The temperature is still warm and I am struggling a little.  As I walk I think about covid as a possibility.  It all seems to be in the head.  Is it just tiredness?

On this last 5 km, I see in the distance what look like vineyards on steep slopes.  And not just vineyards. Other crops occup the same slopes.  As do residential areas, seemingly well away from villages and towns, with no apparent centres.  And no apparent roads to and from.

And the hills either side of the valley just seem perpendicular with a jagged skyline.

I struggle into Aigle, find the Information Office and the only accommodation available is the hotel next door. A mere snip at Swiss Francs 172 for the night.  The property itself offers a special deal for one person of CHF 150.  The room is comfortable but less than generously sized and no special features - just a pretty standard, but small, NZ motel room.

I got to the centre of Aigle, near the large train station (for a town of about 10 000 inhabitants) and have a biere.

And so to bed.

Day 26 Romainmotier to Montreux

• Day 26 - day 05 for 2023
• Wednesday, 13 September 2023
• Romainmotier to Montreux
• 621 km to yesterday
•   54 km today   (14 walked + 40 by train )
• 675 km on my Via Francigena

I start early and make good progress along the official Via Francigena route 70 to La Sharraz for café au lait and some pastries.

I decide to leave the 70 route in favour of the road.  The official route is much much longer and I feel much safer on the roads.

Several km on a driver stops and offers a ride to the next town, Cossonay: I accept and the distance is soon covered. I stay for a while to drink water and say the morning office in a protestant church, mainly because they have a Via Francigena stamp for my credential. 

I continue to Penthalaz and stop at a Vietnamese restaurant in the station for a bowl of soup.

It has begun to consistently drizzle and I continue to Lausanne by train. 

The Lausanne Information Office can only find a bed at 200 Swiss Francs (NZD 400).  But a possibility of one near Montreux look interesting. 

I train to Montreux and the Information Office there makes the booking. 

Another occasion where my long time map lets me down.  While good with the big picture, on a route like this it decides many changes of direction are necessary in an attempt to save distance.  I try to straighten it out but the planner says some bits aren't walkable. So off I go, and while I get there the constant changes take a mental toll.  Also the drizzle at Penthalaz has firmed up and I put on the parka.  I'm feeling hotter than I would like,  but it is only 30 minutes or so.

This is a Youth Hostel, having a centenial celebration this year. The receptionist is a joy and finds a room with a vacant lower bunk.  In return I tell the story about Maui and his fish (as I did with the receptionist at the Romainmotier Info Office).

I then head off to explore La Grande Rue and find a meal.  There are some marvelous, but very expensive shops.  Subway provides the salad dinner. I return by bus and see S John's Anglican Church right alongside.  The door is open,  so in I go, intending to say the evening office. While open, the furniture is be re-ordered and John, the parish priest hailing from Liverpool and a group are about to start a parish council meeting,  After some pleasantries I am off.

One of my roommates, Henrietta, says she has a beer outside before turning in for the night. She is from lower Austria and, for my sad ear, has a good command of English. We have a longish conversation about nothing and everything.

 

And so to our own beds.

Day 25 Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier

• Day 25   -   day 04 for 2023
• Tuesday, 12 September 202
• Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier 
• 600 km to yesterday
•   21 km today
• 621 km on my Via Francigena

I am also looking forward to this stage. For two reasons that I will note as they come up.

Le Sommet hoste, while excellent in all other respects to,, has breakfast at gentleman's hours with a consequential late start.

While only 20 km today there are things to note. I am out the door at 06h30 and buying some pain-au-raisin a few minutes later.

Well before 07h30 I have passed through the last French village, Jounge, and striking down a well trod path down into the Orbe Valley.  Vallorbe is to my right, Ballaigues is next with Les Clees and Orbe further down the valley.  They valley is best described as a canyon with steep limestone cliffs defining the north and west sides.  The closest I know in Aoteroa would be the Buller Valley after Inganahua Junction and the Rangitikei Valley in various places.

But the Orbe Valley is so much more dramatic. 

Small French settlements are passed.

Theb there is just a rough path with a French display board about good relationships and then a Swiss notice board about all the documents to have ready for inspection at the border post. 

No national flags in evidence on either side.  This I knew from my research.

I step through the gap in the hedge to be given a greeting by a slightly bemused, Swiss, farmer.

But things are ever so slightly different.

For starters, there are a very large number of firewood stacks, sometimes almost as far as the next bend in the road.

And I soon get a message to say my data plan does not include Switzerland, so more money for an add-on please. 

Ballaigues comes up quite soon. A good time for some small purchase in the Four Square / Tesco local , which also doubles as the local café. 

Another difference for walking is the signage.  Here, as I see it,  signage seems to be meant as a reminder to local wakers and not definitive details. So, foe me there are gaps that I have to fill in.

An example: I have almost got to the bottom of the valley an a sign points back the way I have come and forward. There are two paths slightly to the left (one of which has some slightly flattened gras (and not visible from the standpoint) and one slightly to the right.  The one that mattered on this occasion was the middle of the three with the slightly flatenned grass.  And, after trial and error, it is the only one actually going down hill.

Towards the bottom, the path goes down steeply with handrails.

Crossing the Orbe is a dream on a very rustic and very sturdy wooden bridge.  The path, now on the right bank of the Orbe, is a joy.  It has it its up and down challenges.  But, unlike the path beside the Loue after Ornans on Day 23, it is generally flat and wide. When the limestone walls present an issue, the solution includes a wall on the down hill side tied back to the uphill side, steel handrails and, occasionally a tunnel cut through the limestone, one as long as 30 metres or so.  No anxiety creating moments and I pass about six groups going the other way and one group passes me.  And this is a Tuesday.

I reach Les Clees. I had stopped at Ballaigues to try and resolve the data plan for Switzerland: this country is neither EU or the other grouping, EEA. They seem to prefer just being independent on everything.

I feel as though wasted time has to be caught up.

But I decide to seriously climb up to the café away from my route.  And, I am pleased I did.

In the café is the owner ans two locals having a chat. Coffee ordered I am asked where I am from and where am I going.

Having answered, I ask if they know of accommodation for the night.  We agree on the camping ground at  Romainmotier,  which was my intention.  After some hiccups, they talk with someone who also has English.  I confirm a cabin is preferred.  And the male customer offers to drive me.

Be8ng driven over the next section conflicts me.

My research for this section, which was not but now is part of the official Via Francigena route through Switzerland, would have me walk alongside a small part of the railway from London to Venice that Cathy and I took in August 2006, as part of our honeymoon. 

But we are soon underway and his route is exactly as I seen on my maps. He soon drops me at the camping ground. 

I visit the Abbey Church at Romainmotier: simple as the Cluniac style of the Benedictine order prescribes, all necessities are the and well, but not over, done.

I have not had a real meal for a few days and mine prepares an omelet, pasta and vegetables, seasoned with gruyere cheese along with a glass of pinot noir and a largish glass of sangria.

And so to bed