- Day 25 - day 04 for 2023
- Tuesday, 12 September 202
- Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier
- 600 km to yesterday
- 21 km today
- 621 km on my Via Francigena
I am also looking forward to this stage. For two reasons that I will note as they come up.
Le Sommet hoste, while excellent in all other respects to,, has breakfast at gentleman's hours with a consequential late start.
While only 20 km today there are things to note. I am out the door at 06h30 and buying some pain-au-raisin a few minutes later.
Well before 07h30 I have passed through the last French village, Jounge, and striking down a well trod path down into the Orbe Valley. Vallorbe is to my right, Ballaigues is next with Les Clees and Orbe further down the valley. They valley is best described as a canyon with steep limestone cliffs defining the north and west sides. The closest I know in Aoteroa would be the Buller Valley after Inganahua Junction and the Rangitikei Valley in various places.
But the Orbe Valley is so much more dramatic.
Small French settlements are passed.
Theb there is just a rough path with a French display board about good relationships and then a Swiss notice board about all the documents to have ready for inspection at the border post.
No national flags in evidence on either side. This I knew from my research.
I step through the gap in the hedge to be given a greeting by a slightly bemused, Swiss, farmer.
But things are ever so slightly different.
For starters, there are a very large number of firewood stacks, sometimes almost as far as the next bend in the road.
And I soon get a message to say my data plan does not include Switzerland, so more money for an add-on please.
Ballaigues comes up quite soon. A good time for some small purchase in the Four Square / Tesco local , which also doubles as the local café.
Another difference for walking is the signage. Here, as I see it, signage seems to be meant as a reminder to local wakers and not definitive details. So, foe me there are gaps that I have to fill in.
An example: I have almost got to the bottom of the valley an a sign points back the way I have come and forward. There are two paths slightly to the left (one of which has some slightly flattened gras (and not visible from the standpoint) and one slightly to the right. The one that mattered on this occasion was the middle of the three with the slightly flatenned grass. And, after trial and error, it is the only one actually going down hill.
Towards the bottom, the path goes down steeply with handrails.
Crossing the Orbe is a dream on a very rustic and very sturdy wooden bridge. The path, now on the right bank of the Orbe, is a joy. It has it its up and down challenges. But, unlike the path beside the Loue after Ornans on Day 23, it is generally flat and wide. When the limestone walls present an issue, the solution includes a wall on the down hill side tied back to the uphill side, steel handrails and, occasionally a tunnel cut through the limestone, one as long as 30 metres or so. No anxiety creating moments and I pass about six groups going the other way and one group passes me. And this is a Tuesday.
I reach Les Clees. I had stopped at Ballaigues to try and resolve the data plan for Switzerland: this country is neither EU or the other grouping, EEA. They seem to prefer just being independent on everything.
I feel as though wasted time has to be caught up.
But I decide to seriously climb up to the café away from my route. And, I am pleased I did.
In the café is the owner ans two locals having a chat. Coffee ordered I am asked where I am from and where am I going.
Having answered, I ask if they know of accommodation for the night. We agree on the camping ground at Romainmotier, which was my intention. After some hiccups, they talk with someone who also has English. I confirm a cabin is preferred. And the male customer offers to drive me.
Be8ng driven over the next section conflicts me.
My research for this section, which was not but now is part of the official Via Francigena route through Switzerland, would have me walk alongside a small part of the railway from London to Venice that Cathy and I took in August 2006, as part of our honeymoon.
But we are soon underway and his route is exactly as I seen on my maps. He soon drops me at the camping ground.
I visit the Abbey Church at Romainmotier: simple as the Cluniac style of the Benedictine order prescribes, all necessities are the and well, but not over, done.
I have not had a real meal for a few days and mine prepares an omelet, pasta and vegetables, seasoned with gruyere cheese along with a glass of pinot noir and a largish glass of sangria.
And so to bed
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