Dayy 21 Colombey-des-deux-eglise to Chaumont-en-haute-Marne

• Day 21
• Sunday, 16 September 2018
• Colombey-des-deux-eglise to Chaumont-en-haute-Marne
• 482 km to yesterday
•   30 km today (not including mis-directions)
• 512 km on Via Francigena to date

I breakfast in the hotel and get away as early as.

I’ve decided this will be my last day this season. My hope was to at least get to Reims – did that. And, looking ahead, the next week does not has distance between possible stops and few facilities.

And this day will be a slog.

The start of the only excitement this day happens quite early on. Aa car marked Gendarmerie passes me going in the same direction. When the car has passed I note two occupants.

In three weeks, this is one of the few occasions I have encountered police this close. They have not stopped, so an itinerant is not of interest at present.

When I remember, I make the one fingered salute to oncoming vehicles that is standard at home for all drivers in country area. Because these are urbane French citizens, I am not expecting much of a response. When walking in south-west France, I could categorize the responders from those who did not quite easily.

The inhabitants of SUV and large cars and women aged about 20 to 40 were typically in the “non” category, with the occasional exception. From all other cars/occupants the response rate in April 2016 was about 70%. And, on one occasion, all occupants were waving back.

I trudge along. The success rate for the one finger salute is so-so. Then, in the distance, I see the green Gendarmerie car.

In for a penny, in for a pound. If I’ve already caused some road offence, another won’t cost very much.

I raise my finger, The return is smiles and waves from both occupants.

My first stop is about 25 km into the journe, at a convenience store in what seems to be the middle of nowhere. The cool drink is most welcome.

A river in a deep narrow ravine separates travellers from the town centre. So a slow careful descent and an equally slow careful ascent up the town centre. Can see a hotel opposite the railway station.

Having dropped my stuff, I’m off to look around.

I am surprised to find at least two seminaries for priest training (one being Jesuit, if memory serves: now no longer in use. The Basilica of Saint-Jean-Baptiste has a steady stream of visitors

A meal finishes the day

And so to bed.