.

• Day 17
• Wedesday, 12 September 2018
• Condé-sur-Marne to La Chaussée-sur-Marne
• 354 km to yesterday
•   35 km today
• 389 km on Via Francigena to date

Coffee breakfast, and on the road very early.

I cross over to the tow path on the left bank of the canal.. To add to the readers confusion. With respect to a river or stream the banks describe the sides as you face down stream. If I imagine standing in the middle of the river with back to the flow (facing down stream) and my hands held out pointing to a bank then ...

I am travelling up stream and there is nothing after nothing to see.

There are almost no craft of any type on the canal and, as the surrounding country side is quite flat, almost no locks. At one time each lock had its own staff with buildings to suit. When I came that way that had long gone. Now the boat masters arrange their own lock operations by pulling a cord suspended over the river to open or close the lock gates as needed.

By mid morning I arrive at the champagne capital of the world: Châlons-en-Champagne. I stroll up the main street, have a coffee and visit the Cathedral.

Back on the tow path, I am grateful for the shade the trees between me and the Marne River proper on what is the south side.

Despite the shade I am using up my water quite quickly. Seeing a village across the canal, I go in search. But it is siesta time and everything is closed. Except one small window beside the bakery. And two people are working in the room beyond. I get out my water bottle and, holding it up, tap on the window. The male, nearest the window gruuffly indicates “go away,” The woman goes into the next room and comes back with a bottle of water from the shop, gives it to me with a large smile and will not accept payment.

Late afternoon I cross over to the large town of La Chaussée-sur-Marne as my map tells me there is a hotel.

Yes there is, but it is “complet” full up. But the receptionist (who has slow but very understandable English) says she will enquire about the town. She comes back telling me of a restaurant that is closed for the season and would I go and look. The owner shows me over the outside grounds used for picnics and gives me a key to the building for the toilets.

I return to the hotel for dinner.

And so to bed.