Day 24 Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs

• Day 24
• Monday, 11 September 2023
• Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs
• 580 km to yesterday
•   20 km today  (using my route)
• 600 km on the Via Francigena

I am looking forward to this stage.  Since I started planning my Via Francigena, this last stage in France seemed problematic. 

Compounded by each country making its own decision as to where lay the route of Archbishop Sigeric cica AD 950.  The Swiss said through Yverdon. And so the last few kilometres in France, from the intersection at La Cluse, followed that dictat.

Other published routes also came through La Cluse and then struck uphill towards Les Hopitaux Neuf and Jounge with the border just beyond. 

Using the detail in Open Street Maps, I spotted a possible, and possibly much simpler alternative.  Only one way to find out.

I also noted the official route in France from Pontarlier to La Cluse had been charged from an impossible climb up to Château de Joux to a very slightly less challenging climb up a hill to the east of the main road N57.  Previously I had seen a cycling route beside the river Doubs, also towards La Cluse.

But before testing my research, I have been invited to an early coffee at the Sapeurs-Pompiers station at Pontarlier by the ambo team from yesterday. 

Then to have a brief look around the centre of Pontarlier.  The church is open and I say the morning office and set off..

The riverside cycling route is easy peasy and I am at the rail crossing beyond La Cluse to see a cross country train pass on its way to nearby (as trains go) Vallorbe in Switzerland. 

I find the former rail pathway, marked with a large information board and get going.  This is about 8 km from my start point.  And is about 800 metres above sea level.

The path is generally good.  A feature, much to be desired today, is the shade offered along the way.

There is a noticeable steady climb over the next 5 km, to the terminus for the tourist railway.  The terminus has undercover seating: this is also much appreciated today.

The path continues beside,  but not too close beside, the railway.  The going underfoot varies from good to difficult. The difficulty comes from the railway ballast under the sleepless migrating to the path.  A cyclist passed further back, so no problems there.

Another 3 km to look over the hill in the middle distance. Obviously a skifield with well manicured slopes waiting for snow. 

And now a mixture of urban roads and rural paths and another path beside the railway to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs.

Combined with two hot days and this, coupled with minimal sleep,  I am buggered.

A boulangerie offers cold drink and pain au raisin.  I  am so tired, I sit outside the shop to taketh orange juice.  A customer comes out and gently asks me to use the seats across the street. She asks what I am doing and I reply "to Rome".  As she goes back into the shop, I move across the road.

Refreshed I find the Mayor's Office.  The person there does not have English but takes me outside to someone who does.  A hostel close by is rung for me: I go to book in.  Le Sommet - very new.

There being no restaurants open  dinner is more Pain au raisin from the Boulangerie: the shop keeper throws in a gift and I thanher profusely. I repair to a bar across the road for vin ordinaire. 

And so to bed