• day 15
• Monday, 10 September 2018
• Reims stay put
• 321 km to yesterday
•      0 km today
• 321 km on Via Francigena to date

After breakfast, I find suggestions for what to do today.  

Top of my list is the Musée de la Reddition du 7 mai 1945.  A museum commemorating the end of World War II in Europe at the actual site of surrender.

It is just over 1 km from the Hotel Arden: I am there shortly after opening time.  The principal use of the building is a polytechnic, Lycée Franklin Roosevelt.

And the building had a similar use in 1994 and 1945, so the museum material said, to act as a disguise.  That part of the building that is a museum now was not a museum then, its was the headquarters for Eisenhower (as supreme commander) and his Allied staff as they directed the war to a conclusion.  And the surrender of Germany on 7 May 1945.

The space taken for the headquarters (and now the museum) was not large.  In a large room, one wall was taken up by a map of all of France and much of Germany.  The focus is on the relevant towns and the railway connections between them - a single track had a narrow line and double tracks had a wider line.  Simplicity - no motorways then and canals did not seem to feature.  

We are also carefully told that all allies, France, Great Britain and USSR (read Russia) negotiated the surrender terms and all was signed very early that morning.  And we are equally carefully told that Russian Head of State (Joseph Stalin) required a surrender ceremony in Moscow.  That was arranged for 8 May.  And that date has become the recognised date of surrender for all.

Shopping and a walk about completes the day.

And so to bed.

 

• day 14
• Sunday, 9 September 2018
• Cormichy to Reims
• 301 km to yesterday
•   20 km today
• 321 km on Via Francigena to date

I was great at setting up last night and was most uncomfortable. All packed up quite quickly and off not long after sunrise.  My map says about 20 km to the centre of Reims.  And navigation is straight forward.

What I don't anticipate is the roller-coaster like country-side.  Gently up a small hill, gently down the other side to stream, gently up a small hill, gently down the other ... in cycles of about 1 km between hill tops.  I note the road is now the D944.  Later I find the D1044 is in the Aisne Region and continues as D944 in the Marne Region.  Important to know.

In the city centre it is Sunday and I am having trouble finding my way around.  Eventually I alight on the Hotel Arden, 2 star with bed and breakfast.  Two night.  The room is comfortable with an outlook over the street - and there is a bath.

It is early afternoon and I go walk about.

The city centre is almost billiard table flat and sort of laid out in a grid pattern.

The Cathedral is less than 1 km away, so off I go.  It is a grand open space, and open for visitors.  Unlike many (most!) ancient abbeys and cathedrals in England and Spain that I know of, the floor from west door to the chapels at the east end is at the same level throughout.  Only the chancel (for choir and sanctuary) is raised about three modest steps and surrounded by a open grille, so all is visible.  It is hard to comprehend that during WW1 the roof caught alight and was destroyed but the walls stood.  Restoration started in 1919, according to the info sheets, being interrupted by WW2.  Amongst all the information I noticed a photo of President de Gaulle of France and Chancellor Adenauer of (West) Germany.  The caption says they were commemorating reconciliation for all the wars between these two countries since the early 1800s.  The photo was taken in front of where I was standing.  I recall it was just a week ago, at Arras, where the short movie after the tour of Carriere Wellington expressed the hope for no more wars in Europe.  And this photo signaled the start of the development of the European Union.

Mass is scheduled for 18h.  But a message does the rounds: cancelled.

And so to bed.

 

• day 13
• Saturday, 8 September 2018
• Laon to Cormichy
• 262 km to yesterday
•   39 km today
• 301 km on Via Francigena to date

Breakfast has been set out early for me and I am away a short while after daybreak.

Yesterday I got some background about Chemin des Dames: in WWI the enemy held the high ground to the south with French forces on the lower ground surrounding Laon.  A French plan was prepared to dislodge their enemy.  The timing was for late April 1917 (remember the Kiwi tunnellers at Arras and the Canadians at nearby Vimy).

As I set off, through the medieval gate and down to low ground, I can see the ridge along which Chemin des Dames runs from west to east.

My only target today is to make progress and meet whatever I encounter along the way.  I also note the "official" Via Francigena route is to the east before turning south to Reims.  I will touch on it at only one point, and that is accidental.

By mid morning I have achieved the largish town with the equally large name of Bruyères-et-Montbérault.  And it is a village market day: time for some fruit.  And across the road is the parish church and it is open.  And the seating is arranged intimately with the booklets telling of a wedding later that day.  Curiosity satisfied I continue on.

An hour along the road, at the village of Monthenault, I can see a very modern church a little of to one side and, joy of joys, it also is open.  I learn it was built in the 1930s and is a joy to behold, both inside and out.  Several years later I read the building is suspect in some way.  But a mention of that is not made in its Wikipedia (FR) page.

A few more km and I have coffee in an upmarket beside a lake.  And it costs.

I escape quickly and ascend up to the ridge to Cerny-en-Laonnois on Chemin des Dames.  Here I encounter, not for the first time, a very large Nécropole nationale.  More interestingly there is a German military cemetery along side and a few metres along a British Memorial Column.  And, in the mix a chapel for the use of those visiting these places.

I do not take stock of time elapsed or distance travelled since setting out and press on, east along Chemin des Dames.  I pass the Dragon's Cavern (a former quarry used for shelter by both sides in WWI - but at different times).  Then I encounter a memorial to the wars of 1814 (that also has a related link to 1916). And then a monument to the Basque Division that fought here in WWI.  I feel a call back to the Basque region that occupies parts of France and Spain and proudly hosts several camino to Santiago.

I now read my map for the town ahead and see they have a gite: in fact I haven't read properly or with any intelligence (blame my tiredness).  Yes, there is a gite in nearby Craonnelle.  But a gite is not a gite d'etape: the first is typically an upmarket motel or BnB, the second is a hostel for backpackers.  Gite typically will not accept backpackers and the clientele for gite would not be seen dead in a gite d'etape.  I walk into the village but the gite staff don't want to talk.  So I walk out.

So far today I've walked about 23 km.  And it is warm.

Over a hour later I reach Pontavert and the hotel Relais de Fleurette.  They have a room, but it is very pricey.  I decide to continue.  I cross the Aisne river and the related canal.  While I don't notice till now, I have moved through the Aisne Region into the Marne Region of France.  The British forces 100 years ago only talked of the Somme (where I was just a few days ago).  For the French Aisne and Marne are the rivers and regions of note.

Dusk is approaching as I enter the next town, Cormichy.  I do a circuit, looking for somewhere to set up my little campsite.  First east a few hundred metres then circle south around the parish church heading west.  Here I see a sign for pizza.  That solves dinner.  I enter and a chap with English talks with me.  When he understands I am walking to Rome is asks me to come past the counter and show me a photo on the fridge.  It is of him, with his pack, in S Peter's Plaza, Rome.  The pizza is free and the bottle of wine 2 Euro.  And he point me in the direction of a run down orchard on the road towards Reims.  I will sleep well.

And so to bed.

 

• day 12
• Friday, 7 September 2018
• Crepy to Laon
• 252 km to yesterday
•   10 km today
• 262 km on Via Francigena to date

Break camp just after sunrise and away.  The mesa top city of Laon is ahead of me all the way this morning.  The D1044, that caused me grief yesterday still has no shoulders to walk.  However, the road is straight and visibility ahead is excellent: if a need arise, I just step onto the grass berm beside the dashed white line and road edge.

On the roads for the past two days were large signs with a brown background (directions to museums, art galleries, etc). And just one phrase "Chemin de Dames" (Ladies Road).  Why is a road also a museum? That gets tucked away for a question to others.

In days past, cities and towns took fortifications against marauders very seriously.  Examples seen before taking up long-distance walking included York, Chester, Carcassonne, Le Quesnoy and Colmar.  Then Lauzerte (between Cahors and Moissac) is a mesa (or butte) with a steep pull up from the roads below.  And Laon is in that mould.  So where to find the narrow path to get to the top and the city.  My map gives me a clue and off I go up the Rampe Saint-Just and debouche onto Rue Saint-Jean (together with Rue Saint-Martin, I find later in the day) form the main thoroughfare of about 2 km across the flat mesa top.  At this end there are generous footpaths on both sides with a single carriageway for motors and bollards to keep everything in its proper place. 

As I walk I encounter a hanging sign for Les Chevalier Hotel and go in.  It is late morning and I have a bed for the night.  Before leaving my stuff with the manager, I check the pronunciation of the city's name: as I hear it La'on, but run together.  I set off to explore the elevated city and note, several centuries ago, just about all social services were provided by religious communities, both lay and consecrated.

I go to the west side and work my way to the Cathedral at the east side, noting any gates I could use the next morning to continue onwards.

The Cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady of Laon, is marvelous.  Wikipedia tells me there was a bishop of Laon from around 500 CE until 1802 when it was translated to nearby Soissons.  Now a parish church (as is the equally magnificent Basilica of Saint Quentin 60 km to the north) is was completed about 1230.  There is much natural light and the tower at the centre of the cross shaped building was, for me, with windows at the top letting in light, an echo of the lantern tower at Ely Cathedral near Cambridge, England.

I return to the hotel and bath etc in preparation for an evening meal at the restaurant in the shadow of the west end of Notre Dame de Laon.

Mine host gives me a table to myself against one wall and the menu provides me with a degree of simplicity to choose from.  At a table against the adjoining wall are two younger and one slightly older.  As we are each finishing our meal the each of the women take out their phone and take photos of the other two.  I come across and signal them to get into a group and will take a photo.  They are pleased with the result.  As I return to my place there is tap on my shoulder: one of the younger women wants to take my photo: "thank you".  As I take up the pose the slightly older one rushes across and put her arm around my shoulders: nice one.  I write out my email address and a few moments later an email arrives with the message which I translate as "when you are in Corsica ..."

And so to bed.

 

• day 11
• Thursday, 6 September 2018
• Saint-Quentin to Crepy
• 215 km to yesterday
•   37 km today
• 252 km on Via Francigena to date

I am away at day break as usual. But this will turn out to be a different, mixed-mode day

Having looked at my map the night before I cross the river and head off along the D1044.  Through the built up area it is OK, if a bit stolid.  After leaving the houses the road looks good and flat.  But it has no shoulders as far ahead as my eye can see.  

I change direction to the east to look at the D57 - it also has no shoulders to walk on.

After about two hours of this I reverse and go to the Saint-Quentin station and take a train to Tergnier.  It is about 12 noon when I alight and immediately go east about 8 km to link up with the D1044, again.

While the D1044 has minimal shoulders, it also has minimal traffic.  So progress is made for another 11 km to the village of Crepy, a village with one long main road of several kilometres.  I see one place to pitch my tent: a well manicured green tucked in beside the ancient parish church (closed).  As I haven't seen  a food shop I continue on and eventually see a pub.  I enter and order the local brew: this is a lovely warm red colour and is served in very large brandy style glasses.

Before I drink I need a comfort stop and go down to the toilet. On entering I can see a door on either side and the urinals in full view straight ahead.  I need not the urinals and try the door on my left.  It has the customary foot places with an opening in the floor.  For those few who have not encountered this arrangement, the user downs trews and squats.  I was wearing the kilt and there was no where to hang it up.  I try the other door: it is locked.  I return to the bar, look mine hostess in the eye, hold up the edge of the kilt and say slowly (for my benefit) "Le clef pour madame, sil vous plait" (The key for the lady, please).  There is some loud laughter from the other patrons and mine hostess turns around, takes something of a hook and turning back, gives me a key.  My guess was right: behind the locked door was a sit-upon toilet.

I finish my drink and push off looking for a place for my tent.  I find a good place, with full view of Laon atop its hill about about 5 to 10 km ahead and the road (still the D1044) about 100 metres away.

And so to bed.

 

• day 10
• Wednesday, 5 September 2018
• Peronne to Saint-Quentin
• 186 km to yesterday
•   30 km today
• 216 km on Via Francigena to date

This day is as varied as the other nine so far.

Awake early and on the road (D397) just after sunrise.  A short distance on I leave that road to pass through the village of Doingt and pick up a former railway line, now walking track - very pleasant for about 3 km.

Generally heading south east towards the village of Vermand and arrive there for lunch.  The locals, and especially mine host, are taking double looks at me.  Is it my kilt.  Or just they haven't seen walkers before.  

Over lunch I look at my maps and see a near straight line from Vermand to Saint-Quentin.  And it is not a road.

Not gone very far when I see industrialised agriculture being practised.

There is one wheat harvester going round in ever decreasing circles and a squadron of trucks that, one by one, take their place under a discharge chute: when filled one moves off and another falls into place.  The harvester does not stop and obviously has storage capacity for at least one truck.

After watching for a space, I move on and into a pretty dense forest: no undergrowth so I cant call it bush.  And the track continues on.  

I pass through two residential areas and on entering Saint-Quentin pass a large German WWI military cemetery.  Venturing in I notice every grave marker has the name, age, rank and home town.  Very similar to how this is done in French military cemeteries.

Reaching the city centre I head towards the tower (or steeple) I can see on the hill top and, passing the Hotel le Florence, stop to get a bed for the night.

I have time to at least look around the Basilique de Saint-Quentin: it is an imposing building with much to commend it, but in places it looks as though it is damaged and with no resources to repair or complete.

I have a simple meal.

And so to bed.

 

• day 09
• Tuesday, 4 September 2018
• Rancourt to Peronne
• 176 km to yesterday
•   10 km today
• 186 km on Via Francigena to date

On waking I recall the problem I encountered after dinner last night.  My charger is still at the Ibis in Arras.  And any charger wont do.  I have a tablet with a 10 inch screen.  Not only a bit power hungry during the day, they need a charger with some oomph beyond those used by normal sized phones.  I call the Ibis in Arras and yes, they have the charger and await instructions.  

While the assistant manager at Hotel le Prieure, Rancourt has English, it is very clear we do not have the same vocabulary.  Eventually he arranges for an Arras based taxi to go to the Ibis, pick up the charger and bring it to Rancourt.  The driver is lovely and her charges are quite modest.

I get away quite late in the morning with a modest itinerary for the rest of the day, continuing on the D1017.  After a short while I pass over the Canal du Nord. European canals are wide with large barges being the beasts of burden.  I had first encountered their like at Moissac when walking from Le Puy-en-Velay in April 2016. And the Canal du Nord is no exception.  As I walked I recalled seeing images when the Kiwi soldiers, operating north-east of here, were part of the taking of this canal just on 100 years before.  

The approach to Peronne is not far on and I can see the tops of a memorial a few hundred metres ahead.  Having see many French memorials over the years, this one seems a little different. And it is.  

It is a memorial to the Australian 2nd Division battle of Mont Saint-Quentin.  There are fresh flowers and I can see the battle started on the night of 31 August 1918.  Just a few days (and 100 years) before.  The story board is fascinating and describes the flexibility of some small units in achieving their goals.  This memorial (and most of Peronne) is at 100 meters above sea level.  Mont-Saint-Quentin itself is just over 10 metres higher but gave a grand view of the surrounding countryside for enemy artillery.  The Somme River is about 1 km in the other direction at about 50 metres above sea level.  From reading that night I learn this was the last battle for this Australian division and one of the last battles the Australians too part in.  They had been heavily involved in pushing back the enemy offensive in March 1918 and now taking the fight forward and were exhausted.  I carry on to the museum title Historial de la Grande Guerre, pay the fee and walk around.  The museum is new and attached to a large ancient castle close by the River Somme.

In the town I do not see any accommodation so walk out of town and encounter a simple place.

And so to bed.

 

• day 08
• Monday, 3 September 2018
• Arras to Rancourt
• 141 km to yesterday
•   35 km today
• 176 km on Via Francigena to date

Have an early breakfast in the hotel and away about 08h.  I had scouted the route on Friday and Saturday. Today the route is on the D917 and is uneventful leaving Arras.  The countryside ahead is gently rolling and the road has good shoulders.  

About noon I arrive at Bapaume.  Although a short stage I look about for accommodation.  On the notice board outside the parish church (closed) is a notice for pilgrims.  I ask around and get the message it wont happen.  So back track to a hotel I noticed on entering the town: English is well spoken but no, they are fully booked.  

I get a quick bite for lunch and carry on.  On the way I notice signage for several WWI battle sites, in particular for South Africa. I know the major Kiwi memorial in France is not far beyond (Longueval - I had been there is 2010) and decide not to divert.

At the very small village of Sailly-Saillesel, the D917 becomes the D1017.  A short while after I pass through the village of Rancourt with the imposing Hotel Le Prieuré on the outskirts.  I've had a big day and decide this is my stopping place.

Not many guests and I have the restaurant almost to myself.  A largish meal follows.

And so to bed.

 

• day 07
• Sunday, 2 September 2018
• Arras
• 141 km to yesterday
•     0 km today
• 141 km on Via Francigena to date

In the morning I transfer to the Ibis hotel closer to the centre with more modern facilities for the same price.  

Today (Saturday) I will visit the Carrière Wellington (or Wellington Tunnel) on the south side of the city.  This is one of at least four tunnels prepared by Kiwi tunnellers from late 1916 for use in a major offensive along the British sector (see Vimy above).  The task was to extend existing tunnels starting near central Arras to go beyond enemy lines for a surprise attack in April 2017.  I have booked and am part of an English speakers only group.  Before we start I approach the guide saying I am from Wellington, New Zealand (where we have an Aeeas Tunnel) and may I have a few moments towards the end of the tour.  He looks thoughtful and slowly nods.

The tour is wonderful.  Apart from the tunnellers, no Kiwi troops were involved in the battle.  And the troops that did were brought in at night about a week before the battle.  The Kiwi's left many mementos of their time there, including naming many of the streets using names from home, and these names are still visible.  The guide assembles in one place and after a few words looks and me and slowly nods.  I start by speaking Ka mate (no actions) and link Te Rauparaha from about 200 years ago to the battles of about 100 years ago with today - less than a minute.  The tour concludes above ground with a short film (English sub-titles) which connects the hostilities of 100 years and 75 years ago with the formation of the European Union and the promise of no more wars in Europe.  Many of the tour group (many of whom know of Ka mate) want to know a bit more.

At the end of the day I get a simple meal and go to a vigil Mass in the nearby parish church.

And so to bed.

• day 06
• Saturday, 1 September 2018
• Gauchin-Légal to Arras
• 119 km to yesterday
•   22 km today
• 141 km on Via Francigena to date

Awake about sun-rise, break camp and continue on the D341.

I feel quite conflicted today as I pass signposts pointing to the Mémorial national du Canada à Vimy.  This was a major battle for the Canadian forces in April 1917 (a few months later the Canadians took over from New Zealand and others to complete the Battle for Passchendaele near Ypres, Belgium).  It is less than 10 km and would delay arrival at Arras by a day.  

I carry on to arrive in central Arras about noon.  And find a festival underway.  There are two town squares and I find a hotel room for one night in the larger Grand'Place.  I have a walk around the city and find the Cathedral is closed.  And I notice it is a relatively new building while the surrounding four storied buildings (shops on the ground floor and residences above) have an appearance and feel suggesting pre 1900.  While the look is similar, the design details from top to bottom make each building unique.  

The relatively smaller Place de Héros has an almost brand new Hôtel de Ville occupying the full width at the western end.  It looks magnificent and has a tower for both a town clock and bells.  In the chat with others I learn the original cathedral and town hall were both destroyed during the WWI hostilities.  This evening there is to be light (but no sound) show projecting from the eastern end of Place de Héros onto the Town Hall. I am there at the start but, with no where to sit and all walls taken I don't stay long as tiredness quickly sets in.  The little I saw tells me this is remembrancing of the events of exactly 100 years before in 1918.  

And so to bed.

 

• day 05
• Friday, 31 August 2018
• Thérouanne to Gauchin-Légal
•   84 km to yesterday
•   35 km today
• 119 km on Via Francigena to date

The first major destination after Calais is Arras.  I expect to have a rest day (stay two nights) here and the roads taken are with that in mind.

The community operated hostel has all mod cons, including a very well set up kitchen.  So, for the first time this journey, I cook porridge using the rolled oats brought from home.

Everything washed and put away I restart on the D341.  This is a straight line for most of the day, with a few kinks here and there.  Over todays distance, I start about 40 metres above sea level (m asl) and end about 100 m asl with a few ups and downs along the route.  The country is gently rolling agriculture land.  Like the trips across France and Spain in 2016 and 2017, no animals observed here.

The first kink is after about 90 minutes.  And a bakery is in full view.  Even at 09h customers are driving here (there are no villages close by) to get bread for the day.  I have a small item and carry on.  A few minutes later the cyclists from the night before pass by.  They are from the Po Valley in Italy and are returning home.

There are many villages and towns along the D341.  Looking ahead, if something looks interesting in the near distance I will consider a small diversion.  Usually this will be a church steeple or bell tower pushing above the surrounding one or two storied houses and shops. I find churches can be a good bell-weather for how the community takes care (takes pride) in itself.  As everywhere, the churches are locked when I pass by.  But the way the grounds and building exteriors are looked after tends to suggest that I will see the same in the other buildings.

And this is what happens along this stretch today.

I don't remember a lunch break but am fascinated by the signposts point east, towards towns and cities that I encountered in my younger boyhood (and more recently) reading related to both world wars.  Places such as Saint-Omer, Hazebrouck and Bethune.  Other signposts might have a town or village ending in -hem.  I make a mental note to check, when home, if this ending is the same as -ham in England.  For example, Twickenham (just west of London, where son Alastair and co live and some rugby gets played), Dagenham (east London and one time site of a very large Ford cars factory) and West Ham United Football Club, to name a few.  A glossary of geography term says, in southern England, ham refers to a small settlement.  I get the impression that hem has much the same meaning in France.  But, to my eyes and ears, it doesn't seem of French origin but may be an indicator of the movement of cultures, language and people over the centuries.  I leave any enquiry to you, the readers.  Please let me know what you find.

During a brief, late, stop for a bite, I look ahead for somewhere to stay tonight.  A campsite at Rebreveuve-Ranchicourt appeals as it is almost beside the D341.  I arrive about 16h to find they have closed camping for the season (schools restarted late last month), they are closing for the day and I can buy an ice-cream.  I don't want to back track.  They suggest I carry on about 5 km to Gauchin-Légal, where there is a good restaurant.

And so it happens.  A woman in her late 20's is effectively running this family restaurant and speaks English, takes charge of my few needs including suggesting, as I have a tent, camping behind the church across the road.  I sit in the relative warmth until sundown, when I pitch my tent and retire ofr the night.

And so to bed.

 

• day 04
• Thursday, 30 August 2018
• Licques to Thérouanne
• 53 km to yesterday
• 31 km today
• 84 km on Via Francigena to date

For me, the start is a little late than my custom..  Because of the generosity of the camp manager, I decide to "break camp", take breakfast and then start out.

And it is not long before my wayfinding is sorely tested.  While is a major town ahead, the roads are fine but are not named and have no traffic.  No road signs point my way ahead for quite a while and the map on my tablet is working overtime.  After a while I pick up the D225 and almost after passing under a motorway, encounter a shopping centre on the outskirts of Lumbres.  Lunch is had and I move on, now along the D192.

A few hours on and Le Rivoli, labelled as "cafe - tabac - loto - fdj" hoves into view.  Yes there is a coffee machine and, as at Guines and Liques, the other activities seem more dominant.  Refreshed, I continue.

It is some time since I walked this distance, and had come from a lot of travel from London to Edinburgh for Virginia and Warren's Fringe Festival gig and back again the week before and I am still recovering.

As I arrive at the community operated gite d'etape (hostel for the section) two cyclists appear.  As they have the language they ring the number and we are soon registered.  As it is too late for a meal in the town our hosts drive us s small distance to takeaways.

And so to bed.

• day 03
• Wednesday, 29 August 2018
• Calais to Licques
• 29 km to yesterday
• 24 km today
• 53 km on Via Francigena to date

My usual practice, of going to bed dressed for walking is restarted.

Just on daylight I start out noting the tres grande hotel d'ville as I find the road to Guines and lunch.  

It is overcast.  My standard practice is to walk on roads (and related footpaths, if any). So, picking up the D127, with a canal from Calais to Guines to my left, is quite straightforward.  But my nervousness is heightened.  Similar to when I left Le Puy-en-Velay some 30 months before, the magnitude of the entire task ahead bears down on me for a while.  

But the footpath beside the road is good and by late morning I am at Guines.  The town square has a good collection of shops and I select the café, which also has a bar and quickfire lotto games.  My sense is that most activity seems is focused on the latter two activities.  I eat, drink (coffee) and spread my slightly damp tops out to see if they will dry a bit.

After about an hour, I sense I have outstayed my welcome and get underway.  This time on the D215.

Licques is the destination for the day and this section is almost as flat a the proverbial pancake.  The road is good, the shoulders are adequate and traffic is minimal.

What is not minimal is the rain.  It started before Guines and is now very persistent.  And I have not perfected putting on my wet weather gear.  So I am getting quite wet and will not need a shower today.

At Licques I ask in the café about accommodation and told of the camp site on the outskirts and also in my general direction for the next day.  A few km on and I talk with the manager about a tent site.  He takes one look at me and says "here's a key for a chalet, at the price of a tent site".  There is heating and I can start to dry out my wet clothes and put on my dry.  And have a meal.

And so to bed.