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• day 11
• Thursday, 6 September 2018
• Saint-Quentin to Crepy
• 215 km to yesterday
•   37 km today
• 252 km on Via Francigena to date

I am away at day break as usual. But this will turn out to be a different, mixed-mode day

Having looked at my map the night before I cross the river and head off along the D1044.  Through the built up area it is OK, if a bit stolid.  After leaving the houses the road looks good and flat.  But it has no shoulders as far ahead as my eye can see.  

I change direction to the east to look at the D57 - it also has no shoulders to walk on.

After about two hours of this I reverse and go to the Saint-Quentin station and take a train to Tergnier.  It is about 12 noon when I alight and immediately go east about 8 km to link up with the D1044, again.

While the D1044 has minimal shoulders, it also has minimal traffic.  So progress is made for another 11 km to the village of Crepy, a village with one long main road of several kilometres.  I see one place to pitch my tent: a well manicured green tucked in beside the ancient parish church (closed).  As I haven't seen  a food shop I continue on and eventually see a pub.  I enter and order the local brew: this is a lovely warm red colour and is served in very large brandy style glasses.

Before I drink I need a comfort stop and go down to the toilet. On entering I can see a door on either side and the urinals in full view straight ahead.  I need not the urinals and try the door on my left.  It has the customary foot places with an opening in the floor.  For those few who have not encountered this arrangement, the user downs trews and squats.  I was wearing the kilt and there was no where to hang it up.  I try the other door: it is locked.  I return to the bar, look mine hostess in the eye, hold up the edge of the kilt and say slowly (for my benefit) "Le clef pour madame, sil vous plait" (The key for the lady, please).  There is some loud laughter from the other patrons and mine hostess turns around, takes something of a hook and turning back, gives me a key.  My guess was right: behind the locked door was a sit-upon toilet.

I finish my drink and push off looking for a place for my tent.  I find a good place, with full view of Laon atop its hill about about 5 to 10 km ahead and the road (still the D1044) about 100 metres away.

And so to bed.