Day 32 - Pavia to Orio Litta

• Day 32 - day 11 for 2023
• Satuday, 22 September  
• Pavia to Orio Litta   36 km today - bus 14 - walking 22
• 778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023
•    36 km for today
• 814 km on my Via Francigena (302 km for 2023)

l rise early so I can leave by 07h30.

The bus to Belgioioso leaves at 07h40 and I don't wish to miss it - the next is at 11h00.

I get off about 08h30 and look for a cash point and underway just after 09h.

I am on the roads because the official route (not the one created by Archbishop Sigeric) goes backwards and forwards and adding considerable distance in the process. 

I am surprised by the many small retail shops selling cold water and similar.  But I can feel my strength ebbing.

As today's journey nears its end there is a guy standing on my side of the r9as and waving at me.  I stop: he has two questions - 

Why aren't I on the official route? My answer - Archbishop Sigeric, no doubt keen to get back to Canterbury, would not have taken the now official route.

What does a Scotsman wear under the kilt? My answer - not telling. 

I've almost got over the head cold acquired at Montreux more than a week ago. And I'm waking during the night and not getting back to sleep as much as I would like.

At last I come under a railway arch and there is thr church for Orio Litta less than 2 km.  But the path is over 2.5 km to go.

I struggle with this information and the church never seems to get closer.  But then I am there.

I goto to the vigil Eucharist for the Sunday.

And begin looking for accommodation for Sunday night in Piacenza.

And so to bed.

Day 31 - Tromello to Pavia

• Day 31 - day 10 for 2023
• Friday, 22 September  
• Tremello to Pavia
• 751 km to Day 29                      (239 km for 2023)
•   27 km for today     all by train
• 778 km on my Via Francigena (266 km for 2023)

l want to be on the road early today as its a longish distance and the days are getting warm again. 

My hostess has left a nice variety in the hostel kitchen.  The whole of the top floor is devoted to the hostel with four beds.  And I have been the, b only resident this past evening. 

I over imbibe and am out the door just after sunrise. 

I have gone about 30 minutes when I notice a railway level crossing.  I reach for my camera: it's not in my shoulder bag nor in my pockets. I double check and start heading back to the village. 

Conundrum: 

I can't knock on the front door as its about 20 metres from the locked gate.  

cannot ring.

I walk about the town and notice both the local train station and the local police offce.

I enter the police station and between them, they recognize the property and within 30 minutes my phone and I are united

The second part of the conundrum is can I reach Pavia, the next town and where I have booked a bed for the night.

I choose what I am sure Archbishop Sigeric would have chosen, the current version of a fast horse.  One thing I have noticed about European railway systems: there is almost no noise of buffering when a train goes over points, turnouts, call then what you will.

I am at the accommodation, about 2km to the east of the rail station in Pavia by 13h and spend the afternoon looking around the central city..  A lot is relatively new. The old is the University and the churches.  What seems quite new is a statue of Pavia: you can do your own research. 

For the Saturday I have decided to bus about 10 km to Belgioioso and walk my more direct version of 20 km to Orio Litta.

 At Belgioioso I gave trouble locating the bank and its ATM (or BancoMat). So, I go into the cade across the busy road.  Coming out after coffee and a Pastry, I can see the signs clearly - when walking past on a 600 mm wide footpath,  the detail get lost in the need to look at my feet and not take in the bigger picture.  

The distance is about 20 km and I am surprised how many refreshment stops there are.

While making progress, the heat is, for me, very tiring.

The official path and I coincide at a bridge slightly more than 2 km to my destination.  The whole time the destination is clearly visible, but my energy is fast fading. 

I make the hostel and made very welcome.  I get a wash of the days clothes, go to a vigil eucharist and a pasta with tomato sauce and basil.

Before sleep overtakes me, I look at the accommodation and fire off some emails.

And so to bed.

day 30 - Robbio to Tremello

• Day 30 - day 9 for 2023
• Thursday, 21 September  
• Robbio to Tremello
• 723 km to Day 29                       (211 km for 2023)
•   28 km for today
• 751 km on my Via Francigena (239 km for 2023)

I rise about 06h and leave the Community hostel about 07h30, having heated and eaten a cachet of Rizzoli integrale.

The route to Mortara will follow the Via Francigena route almost exactly.  Simple explanation: it is shorter than the road by about 6 km or about 90 fewer minutes walking. 

Surprise: most of the road is sealed and the unsealed bits are not rough, so the going is good. 

On both sides I see crops of not great height.  I am reminded of wheat, but this is much shorter.  And there is an abundance on water reticulation channels.

About 09h is Nicorvo and a café and the first coffee of the day. Near the counter are vacuum sealed packs of rice.  Looking at the owner I point at the packs and then sweep my hand around.  He nods expressively, and sweeps his hand around also.  On leaving the village, I go into the chapel and say the morning office. 

The flat road entices me back and the town of Albanese comes up about 10h30.  Time for a quick cold drink and back on the sealed road to Mortara.

The roads are generally good and the traffic generally light.   So, I practice my wave and get many good responses. 

Then someone stops and, using a translation app, asks if I need assistance. I tell him what I am doing and the reaction and he is content.

Mortara comes up before 12 noon and I am soon seated with a large cappuccino and brioche marmelittia.

Here I look at accommodation for tonight in Tremello and ring one. We talk in simple terms, I am booked in and please be here by 16h.  It is 12 km and I have about 3 hours.

Before setting off a bottle of Moretti is called for.

I make good progress, a car stops: the occupants want to know about the kilt and offer me a ride to Tremello.  We chat on the way and I arrive.

From the works of art on the walls, the lady owner has some skills.  The property is named The House of the Nocciolo.

I do another wash, of today's clothes, and have a meal.

My choice of restart, Vercelli, could not have been better.

And so to bed.

Day 29 - Vercelli to Robbio

• Day 29 - day 8 for 2023
• Wedneday, 20 September  
• Vercelli to Robbio
• 705 km to Day 28
•   18 km for today
• 723 km on my Via Francigena (211 km for 2023)

I rise about 04h and leave the Combo hostel at about 05h walking Via XX September to Torino Porta Nuova train station. 

I arrive about 30 minutes later and soon find my departure platform.  Over three travel days,  I have found TrenItalia runs on a lot of passenger trust.  While I have an e-ticket for each stage, I have never been asked for it.

The train I have selected on arrival, actually departs at 05h54 - my ticket was for the departure at 06h54.  I arrive at Vercelli at 07h and I follow the VF route on my map to the eastern outskirts of town and the last and only open café so far.

My route initially is on road, then an outback agricultural service road.  I find the largish stones of this route, as anywhere, hard to walk on.  After about 12 km I encounter the town of Palestro (site of a largish battle in 1859 between Austria and a combined Sardinian (Torino) and French force - commemorated in the town square and on leaving eastwards).

To my destination for the day, Robbio, I walk the remainder on the road. I do my customary salute to oncoming motorists and have a very high response rate.

I come to the town council offices as they have a donativo apartment with five beds.  I am the only resident so far today and the log book suggest 2 or 3 users a week.

I wash a top, the front of my kilt and some smalls and put them on the drying frame outside.  The warm light breeze should do the trick.

After a brief look around, I repair to the bar across the road for a birra, brioche and trumpet ice cream. 

And to write these trip notes.

After a brief rest find a pizzeria that does other stuff,  so have a salad entirely of sea food.

At the end tell the owner the Maui and the fish story.  He seemed suitably impressed, maybe as he was of an age to have young children and looking for fresh things.

And so to bed.

Day 28 bis - transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino

• Day 28 bis - day 7 for 2023
• Saturday, 16  to Tuesday, 19 September 2023
• transfer from Saint-Maurice to Vercelli via Milano and Torino
• 705 km to Day 28
•     0 km for this transfer
• 705 km on my Via Francigena

Saturday, 16 September - Saint-Maurice to Milano

The Abbey hostel provides a simple breakfast of coffee, bread with confiture and cheese which all six of us enjoy.

Three are moving on today with the couple staying another night.

Today I start the process of bypassing, for now, the 2,000 metre climb over 5 days to the Great Saint-Bernard Pass and several days down the other side.

I have arranged to sit in the reception room of the Abbey during the morning.  I have decided to spend the time getting my trip notes up to date and almost succeed. I reward myself with a coffee and girella.

I am on the platform for almost an hour before departure and see a variety of train operations.  A Portugese man and I talk for about 5 minutes about the kilt and what we are each doing before he and his Brazilian wife go to their train. 

My train goes across the bottom half of Switzerland, starting in Geneva with Brig at the other end.  There we change to a train that takes us through the 1921 Simplon Tunnel to Domodossla, by bus to Stresa and then a stop start train (for stations and other events) to Milano. 

During this journey we change from announcements in French, German and Italian and from relative consideration for others to gentle pushing and queue hopping by young and old alike.

As the day moves on I keep adding a layer.  My head cold with a slight temperature has not improved.   And the 90 minute wait (20 was scheduled) in line at the Domodossla bus station has not helped. On arrival at Milano at about 21h I feel like a mental and physical cot case.  And I have yet to get to the hostel. It is about 2km walking or 2 metro subway stops and 500 metres walking. Getting to the metro platform is a major task in itself. 

At the hostel, the reception staff are very gracious and considerate.  In particular, without prompting,  the receptionist hand prints the things I need to know. I am so grateful and thank him most warmly.  And I relax.

And so to bed for this lay day.

Sunday, 17 September - walk about Milano

I have my short list and ask the reception for others.  I soon have a list, again with hand printed notes for the Metro.

In daylight and with some sleep I navigate the Metro with a bit more ease and am soon at Duomo (or Cathedral).  I enter the side reserved for prayer, to say the morning office and, before a painting of Mary and Jesus as a toddler, light three candles - for my youngest son Timothy (2002), for Cathy (2014) and for Sue (2023).

Victor Emmanuel II arcade is a must walk through to see the people seeing the people.

Coffee calls and so does the Museum for Teatro di la Scala. The museum has some items of interest.  But most fascinating for me is the opportunity to stand in the dozen or so boxes open as part of the visit and try to imagine 8 people seated in pairs viewing the performance.  And a scale model shows the audience have but a small part of the complex. The large orchestra pit, the large sloping stage, most of which can descend well below street level to present spectacular moments, the flying area above the stage, the massive area behind the stage, the various dressing rooms above - it just goes on and on.   Built in 1778 and going strong nearly 250 years later.

Back to Milano today and walking I note a restaurant doing a grand trade and wait in the queue for a table for one.  Pasta caarbonnara is good and so is the salad.

I continue walking and arrive back at Garibaldi Station. Now to find Navgli, the area for the last canal in Milano.  I find two: the suburb and park then the canal itself with people all over the bridge to the open air market street beyond.  While people do push in, there is also just as much standing back.

And so to bed for this lay day

Monday, 18 September - Milano to Torino

I make porridge breakfast and leave about 08h30.  it will take well under 30 minutes to get to the station.  About the same to have a coffee and my train has come up on the board with its platform number. Within 30 minutes we are stopped, at Milano Centosa.  During what will be a 3 hour wait I go for a walk outside the station, pass a farmacia and buy some Paracetamol.  An hour later the six passengers remaining are told what to do.  As a group we stay together, including me and a Lithuanian, until we are on the train to Torino. 

I walk the 2 km to my hostel passing normal late afternoon activities in central Torino.  The hostel is large and well appointed. I have a meat and veg meal which is enjoyable. 

And so to bed for this lay day.

Tuesday, 19 September  - Torino 

Up early to start this four day section and have breakfast.

Away into Torino, passing the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Reale, and Mole, the worlds highest brick building and former synagogue and coffee and muffin. Down via Giuseppe Verdi (being refurbished for pedestrians) and the reasonably fast flowing Po River  especially as it comes over a Weir at this point.

Encounter memorials to Victor Emmanuel I, King of Sardinia and Victor Emmanuel II, King of Italy.

(Some day the composer Giuseppe Verdi started life with some other surname. And later changed to Verdi to show loyalty to Victor Emmanuel Rex and Duce di Italia (King and Leader of Italy).

I see a Decatholon store and go in to see why North Americans on the Santiago forum think so highly of it.  Walking shoes are of interest and I see something to follow up on when the rime is right.

I look about two weeks ahead from my restart point of Vercelli and feel reinvigorated. And the head cold is easing off and there are several trains for early Wednesday morning. 

And so to bed for this lay day.

Day 28 Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune

• Day 28 - day 7 for 2023
• Friday, 15 September 2023
• Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune
• 691 km to yesterday
•   14 km today
• 705 km on my Via Francigena

The hotel has breakfast in the standard manner.  I go down shortly after 06h30 to be greeted by at least 10 cops in undress uniform.  Clearly not as upmarket as the price might indicate to lesser mortals from way down under.  As I sit down, I notice they are in three distinct groups.  Two from the Swiss railway system, four sitting together are Polizia and another group are Police according, respectively, to the words on their t-shirts. About 30 minutes later a slightly older one changes places and a few moments later, on some signal, they all rise and leave together. I have as much cereal as seems reasonable and leave a bit later.

There is no rush today: it is only 13 km.  And, I think, the shortest stage I have done started with. I emailed the Abbey's gite d'etape the day before and got confirmation of a place.

After about an hour, I am beside the quite wide Rhone River.  I am at once struck how fast it flows and by the milky-green colour.  The latter I guess is from the continuous washing of limestone from the hills.  But the speed of the water is not directly explicable: it hasn't rained for some time and the spring snow melt was also some time ago

Another slow hour and I see a sign for a café just the other side of a 20 metre wide long line of bush that has kept me company.

I go down and almost immediately make a fool of myself: my tiredness or whatever and I have accidentally tipped most of the coffee over me and the table.  I tidy up as best I can. And get another cup. I catch up on the news,  reflect on my tiredness, suspect I might have a temperature and eventually move on.

Five kilometres to go and I am struggling. Yes it is warm, but low 20s and not the high 20s, low 30s of the weekend. 

I decide to not attempt, at this time, any more of the route through Switzerland and especially not look at the route beyond Martigny. Instead I form the intention of transferring to Milano on Saturday, spend Sunday looking around.  To have the same pattern for Torino and then return to Via Francigena from Vercelli. 

I struggle into Saint-Maurice, drop my pack, say the morning office in the Abbey's church and go and get coffee and pastry.

Tonight's gite (hostel) residents are gathering. We are a couple from Melbourne (35 years married), two solo Scots, a French speaker and me.

The Community eucharist is at 18h.  The celebrant is relatively young while the remainder of the community are quite old priests.  As today celebrates the birth of Mary, they are habited in alb with a soft (Mary) blue stole. The chanting of the psalms and canticles by the community and others in choir is soothing to hear.

I make the travel and accommodation arrangements. 

And so to bed.

Day 27 Montreux to Aigle

• Day 27 - day 6 for 2023
• Thursday, 14 September 2023
• Montreux to Aigle
• 675 km to yesterday
•   16 km today
• 691 km on my Via Francigena

The hostel has breakfast in the standard manner and I imbibe.

As I set off, Henrietta and I wish one another well.

It is but 5 km along the side of Lac Leman.  While I am coming to the eastern end, the Lac stretches all the way back to Geneva at the western end.  There is much to see along the lakeside at this hour and many things capture my attention as I pass and some I even stop for.  Like many European towns I have encountered before, one aspect is defences against marauding intruders.

Shortly after leaving the Lac, I am at the town of Villeneuve.  It is shortly after 09h and the downtown area I am in is bustling.

I quickly find a wonderful café doing a roaring trade.  What was pain-au-raisin on Tuesday morning at Hopiteaux du Neufs has stayed the same visually and physically but is now called escargot - very much more exciting to be eating a snail.

My intention today is Aigle.

Across the road from the café is what, very much from the outside, looks like as a church.  I enter to say the morning office and find I have entered the town administration offices and, in particular,  The Information (Tourist) Office.  The lovely lady agrees to phone the two or three lower priced accommodation properties. One say she has a bed not "sold" and please use the nominated booking agent. I do that to find "nothing available".  The other properties do not respond.  Ah well!  

While waiting and using a map, I point out some land in the south west Pacific that look like a fish, with the mouth being near where I live.  The story of Maui, his brothers and the upturned waka goes down well. (as also happened at Romainmotier and Montreux, and as will also happen at Milano - and at each I also explain the farewell on parting - kia kaha).

As no response from the other properties of forthcoming, I bid kia kaha and set off for Aigle, now quite late in the morning. .

After another hour or so, I pass through Roche and pass by what looks like a grand restaurant doing a good trade also. I settle in and enjoy a tres bon large "small salad please".  And a glass of wine, s"il vous plait.

Again I surrender myself to the way.  I am definitely in the final reaches of the Rhone Valley in Switzerland.  Like the Waikato and Lake Taupo, the Rhone passes through Lac Leman to continue from Geneva through France and emerge into the Mediterranean. But I don't see any of that today.

The temperature is still warm and I am struggling a little.  As I walk I think about covid as a possibility.  It all seems to be in the head.  Is it just tiredness?

On this last 5 km, I see in the distance what look like vineyards on steep slopes.  And not just vineyards. Other crops occup the same slopes.  As do residential areas, seemingly well away from villages and towns, with no apparent centres.  And no apparent roads to and from.

And the hills either side of the valley just seem perpendicular with a jagged skyline.

I struggle into Aigle, find the Information Office and the only accommodation available is the hotel next door. A mere snip at Swiss Francs 172 for the night.  The property itself offers a special deal for one person of CHF 150.  The room is comfortable but less than generously sized and no special features - just a pretty standard, but small, NZ motel room.

I got to the centre of Aigle, near the large train station (for a town of about 10 000 inhabitants) and have a biere.

And so to bed.

Day 26 Romainmotier to Montreux

• Day 26 - day 05 for 2023
• Wednesday, 13 September 2023
• Romainmotier to Montreux
• 621 km to yesterday
•   54 km today   (14 walked + 40 by train )
• 675 km on my Via Francigena

I start early and make good progress along the official Via Francigena route 70 to La Sharraz for café au lait and some pastries.

I decide to leave the 70 route in favour of the road.  The official route is much much longer and I feel much safer on the roads.

Several km on a driver stops and offers a ride to the next town, Cossonay: I accept and the distance is soon covered. I stay for a while to drink water and say the morning office in a protestant church, mainly because they have a Via Francigena stamp for my credential. 

I continue to Penthalaz and stop at a Vietnamese restaurant in the station for a bowl of soup.

It has begun to consistently drizzle and I continue to Lausanne by train. 

The Lausanne Information Office can only find a bed at 200 Swiss Francs (NZD 400).  But a possibility of one near Montreux look interesting. 

I train to Montreux and the Information Office there makes the booking. 

Another occasion where my long time map lets me down.  While good with the big picture, on a route like this it decides many changes of direction are necessary in an attempt to save distance.  I try to straighten it out but the planner says some bits aren't walkable. So off I go, and while I get there the constant changes take a mental toll.  Also the drizzle at Penthalaz has firmed up and I put on the parka.  I'm feeling hotter than I would like,  but it is only 30 minutes or so.

This is a Youth Hostel, having a centenial celebration this year. The receptionist is a joy and finds a room with a vacant lower bunk.  In return I tell the story about Maui and his fish (as I did with the receptionist at the Romainmotier Info Office).

I then head off to explore La Grande Rue and find a meal.  There are some marvelous, but very expensive shops.  Subway provides the salad dinner. I return by bus and see S John's Anglican Church right alongside.  The door is open,  so in I go, intending to say the evening office. While open, the furniture is be re-ordered and John, the parish priest hailing from Liverpool and a group are about to start a parish council meeting,  After some pleasantries I am off.

One of my roommates, Henrietta, says she has a beer outside before turning in for the night. She is from lower Austria and, for my sad ear, has a good command of English. We have a longish conversation about nothing and everything.

 

And so to our own beds.

Day 25 Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier

• Day 25   -   day 04 for 2023
• Tuesday, 12 September 202
• Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier 
• 600 km to yesterday
•   21 km today
• 621 km on my Via Francigena

I am also looking forward to this stage. For two reasons that I will note as they come up.

Le Sommet hoste, while excellent in all other respects to,, has breakfast at gentleman's hours with a consequential late start.

While only 20 km today there are things to note. I am out the door at 06h30 and buying some pain-au-raisin a few minutes later.

Well before 07h30 I have passed through the last French village, Jounge, and striking down a well trod path down into the Orbe Valley.  Vallorbe is to my right, Ballaigues is next with Les Clees and Orbe further down the valley.  They valley is best described as a canyon with steep limestone cliffs defining the north and west sides.  The closest I know in Aoteroa would be the Buller Valley after Inganahua Junction and the Rangitikei Valley in various places.

But the Orbe Valley is so much more dramatic. 

Small French settlements are passed.

Theb there is just a rough path with a French display board about good relationships and then a Swiss notice board about all the documents to have ready for inspection at the border post. 

No national flags in evidence on either side.  This I knew from my research.

I step through the gap in the hedge to be given a greeting by a slightly bemused, Swiss, farmer.

But things are ever so slightly different.

For starters, there are a very large number of firewood stacks, sometimes almost as far as the next bend in the road.

And I soon get a message to say my data plan does not include Switzerland, so more money for an add-on please. 

Ballaigues comes up quite soon. A good time for some small purchase in the Four Square / Tesco local , which also doubles as the local café. 

Another difference for walking is the signage.  Here, as I see it,  signage seems to be meant as a reminder to local wakers and not definitive details. So, foe me there are gaps that I have to fill in.

An example: I have almost got to the bottom of the valley an a sign points back the way I have come and forward. There are two paths slightly to the left (one of which has some slightly flattened gras (and not visible from the standpoint) and one slightly to the right.  The one that mattered on this occasion was the middle of the three with the slightly flatenned grass.  And, after trial and error, it is the only one actually going down hill.

Towards the bottom, the path goes down steeply with handrails.

Crossing the Orbe is a dream on a very rustic and very sturdy wooden bridge.  The path, now on the right bank of the Orbe, is a joy.  It has it its up and down challenges.  But, unlike the path beside the Loue after Ornans on Day 23, it is generally flat and wide. When the limestone walls present an issue, the solution includes a wall on the down hill side tied back to the uphill side, steel handrails and, occasionally a tunnel cut through the limestone, one as long as 30 metres or so.  No anxiety creating moments and I pass about six groups going the other way and one group passes me.  And this is a Tuesday.

I reach Les Clees. I had stopped at Ballaigues to try and resolve the data plan for Switzerland: this country is neither EU or the other grouping, EEA. They seem to prefer just being independent on everything.

I feel as though wasted time has to be caught up.

But I decide to seriously climb up to the café away from my route.  And, I am pleased I did.

In the café is the owner ans two locals having a chat. Coffee ordered I am asked where I am from and where am I going.

Having answered, I ask if they know of accommodation for the night.  We agree on the camping ground at  Romainmotier,  which was my intention.  After some hiccups, they talk with someone who also has English.  I confirm a cabin is preferred.  And the male customer offers to drive me.

Be8ng driven over the next section conflicts me.

My research for this section, which was not but now is part of the official Via Francigena route through Switzerland, would have me walk alongside a small part of the railway from London to Venice that Cathy and I took in August 2006, as part of our honeymoon. 

But we are soon underway and his route is exactly as I seen on my maps. He soon drops me at the camping ground. 

I visit the Abbey Church at Romainmotier: simple as the Cluniac style of the Benedictine order prescribes, all necessities are the and well, but not over, done.

I have not had a real meal for a few days and mine prepares an omelet, pasta and vegetables, seasoned with gruyere cheese along with a glass of pinot noir and a largish glass of sangria.

And so to bed

Day 24 Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs

• Day 24
• Monday, 11 September 2023
• Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs
• 580 km to yesterday
•   20 km today  (using my route)
• 600 km on the Via Francigena

I am looking forward to this stage.  Since I started planning my Via Francigena, this last stage in France seemed problematic. 

Compounded by each country making its own decision as to where lay the route of Archbishop Sigeric cica AD 950.  The Swiss said through Yverdon. And so the last few kilometres in France, from the intersection at La Cluse, followed that dictat.

Other published routes also came through La Cluse and then struck uphill towards Les Hopitaux Neuf and Jounge with the border just beyond. 

Using the detail in Open Street Maps, I spotted a possible, and possibly much simpler alternative.  Only one way to find out.

I also noted the official route in France from Pontarlier to La Cluse had been charged from an impossible climb up to Château de Joux to a very slightly less challenging climb up a hill to the east of the main road N57.  Previously I had seen a cycling route beside the river Doubs, also towards La Cluse.

But before testing my research, I have been invited to an early coffee at the Sapeurs-Pompiers station at Pontarlier by the ambo team from yesterday. 

Then to have a brief look around the centre of Pontarlier.  The church is open and I say the morning office and set off..

The riverside cycling route is easy peasy and I am at the rail crossing beyond La Cluse to see a cross country train pass on its way to nearby (as trains go) Vallorbe in Switzerland. 

I find the former rail pathway, marked with a large information board and get going.  This is about 8 km from my start point.  And is about 800 metres above sea level.

The path is generally good.  A feature, much to be desired today, is the shade offered along the way.

There is a noticeable steady climb over the next 5 km, to the terminus for the tourist railway.  The terminus has undercover seating: this is also much appreciated today.

The path continues beside,  but not too close beside, the railway.  The going underfoot varies from good to difficult. The difficulty comes from the railway ballast under the sleepless migrating to the path.  A cyclist passed further back, so no problems there.

Another 3 km to look over the hill in the middle distance. Obviously a skifield with well manicured slopes waiting for snow. 

And now a mixture of urban roads and rural paths and another path beside the railway to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs.

Combined with two hot days and this, coupled with minimal sleep,  I am buggered.

A boulangerie offers cold drink and pain au raisin.  I  am so tired, I sit outside the shop to taketh orange juice.  A customer comes out and gently asks me to use the seats across the street. She asks what I am doing and I reply "to Rome".  As she goes back into the shop, I move across the road.

Refreshed I find the Mayor's Office.  The person there does not have English but takes me outside to someone who does.  A hostel close by is rung for me: I go to book in.  Le Sommet - very new.

There being no restaurants open  dinner is more Pain au raisin from the Boulangerie: the shop keeper throws in a gift and I thanher profusely. I repair to a bar across the road for vin ordinaire. 

And so to bed

Day 23 Ornans to Pontarlier

• Day 23
• Sunday, 10 September 2023
• Ornans to Pontarlier 
• 544 km to yesterday                   (32 km to yesterday)
•   36 km today 
• 580 km on the Via Francigena  (68 km for 2023)

I break camp welll before daybreak and underway at just before sunrise. 

The path is through verdant bush but the going underfoot is not the easiest.  The opportunity for change comes at the first village, Montgesoye.

It is Sunday and I am not expecting much. But a small shop is open, I make a small purchase and ask about un café. The shopkeeper very helpfully steps outside and points the way.  

I study the traffic for several minutes and decide to walk on the road, even though it winds back and forth.  

All road users (mainly cyclists at this hour) cooperate with one another without difficulty. 

And in no time I reach the next town:, Vuilafans, and a coffee.

Lods comes up quite quickly and the coffee goes down equally quickly.

Despite the winding road there is no aggressive driving.  My practice for road walking, developed over many years is working.  The main ingredient is to read the road and the traffic ahead.  As a driver myself, I try to be aware of what a driver might do.

The next town, Mouthier Saint-Pierre, will be the last for a while and I ask only for water. My own water supply is holding well, despite the heat.

I strike off and soon see notices saying the Via Francigena route is blocked for repairs needed to keep users safe.  An alternative is on the other side of the river and my map says it connects to the main path about 5 km ahead.

I  casually look at alternatives and note the road is many km longer and quite windy.  So the alternative it is.

To start, the path appears overgrown and little used. But that soon changes and I make good progress.  Then there are little niggles.  A fallen tree,  mud, not a clear path ahead, them clarity.  Each time there is a niggle, it seems to me to be worse than the niggle before.  With the fallen trees it means taking of my pack, passing it across, scramble over, recover the pack and continue.  Other niggles, more critical to me, are a narrow dirt path with a low side to the river in the canyon below and a high side to the bank above.

After many of these, requiring attention and effort, I am tiring and anxious. A previous history of a version of vertigo is very much front of mind.  That laid me up for 10 days and unable to drive for another 20 days.  Repeat not required.

The final straw for me is just ahead.  What appears to be narrow steps cut into the limestone wall to my right with the river a good drop to my left.  I stop and backtrack a few metres to a clearing. I check that I am on the right path. I am.

While I have a text conversation with my son in London, a man and young boy pass me.  I get confirmation that I am seeing narrow stone steps  ahead.  My map says less than 500 metres ahead to join the normal Via Francigena route.  Because of the conditions of the path I have already traveled,  I feel quite unable to go back or go forward.

After much consideration I decide to push the button on the personal locator beacon I carry..

After a conversation via the emergency number, I am told a helicopter is being prepared. 

When I hear the sound I wave a top. While I am doing this, I get a tap on the shoulder.  While startled, I am so relieved. 

My pack, then me, are hoisted up and taken to a grassed spot at the end of this track.

While waiting for my shoulder bag to come with the ground party, my anxiety and stress drop quickly away.   But my tiredness remains.

Apart from the three in the helicopter, there is a ground party of nine.  Six from a local station (Ouhans, which was to have been my next stop) and three with an ambulance from Pontarlier. 

Asked if I had accommodation for the night, I show the confirmation for the booking. 

The ambo team drop me at the front door. 

And so to bed.

Day 22 Besançon to Ornans

• Day 22
• Saturday, 9 September 2023
• Besançon to Ornans 
• 512 km to September 2018
•   32 km today 
• 544 km on the Via Francigena  (32 km for 2023)

Like Langres and Belfort,  the hotel at Besançon provides a comprehensive, but not cooked, breakfast.  I dine like a king and set off before 07h.

Having walked through the town the afternoon before,  I take the opportunity to walk around down river side of the oxbow shape surrounding the city centre. 

And then to climb up to the chapel and WW2 memorial at the top.

I don't know why local route planned find the most difficult paths to have us walk.

But they do.

The designated path starts off steep and then becomes almost vertical, followed by about 60 steps that don't have much space for a foot and with out a handrail.  To keep my pack from pulling me back, should I mis-step, I feel compelled to climb up on all fours.  The final hurdle is moving on to the road which itself is at quite a steep angle.  Fortunately a passing cyclist pauses to render assistance. 

I make the Francican chapel and pause to say the morning office.  Then onto the WW2 liberation memorial for 8 September 1944.  There was a celebration the day before in central Besançon 

Then down the other side along a Ridgeline with bush either side - quite lovely to be amongst but he path itself left a lot to be desired..

On reaching "civilization" there is a 40 minute walk to a turning point and back to a path just a few hundred metres to my right.  A local uses his knowledge to have me avoid a long walk in the open with heat build-up.

The saving is rewarded by a walk through a green belt and to the western side of the village of Saone.  And the route markings are goog, until I miss one.  I am only 1 km of course!  And the heat is not helpful. As I get ready to turn around I see a car coming from the "wong direction" and put out my thumb. He stops and I ask hopefully for Mamirolle, my intended lunch stop.  My pack and poles go in the trailer and off we set.

But not to Mamirolle. 

First to a building site and his mother-in-law and then to his own home for an impromptu lunch he cooks.  We exchange life histories using a translation app on our phones. I meet his wife, four sons and their wife's.  After several hours we are off, not to Mamirolle but to Ornans.

I have eaten and drunk well.  So stay in the Tourist Office - the camping ground is a good option and is beside the route to Rome.  My first night on the way is in my tent!  It has been a long, but enjoyable day.  I finish with a beer from the camping ground restaurant. Here I decide my next stop is Pontarlier and make a booking for the cheapest hotel on the edge of the town.

And so to bed.

Day 22 bis plus - via Belfort move to Besançon

• Day 22 bis plus
• Thursday, 6 September: 

Being "on the ground" everything looks and feels different. 

First: there is a heatwave starting just as Autumn get underway.  This is not a good time to be actually walking long distances with minimal cover, and café and similar facilities along the way.

Second: accommodation is had to find ahead.

I decide to move on to Besançon. The first leg to Belfort is subject to delay, so overnight there.  This gives an opportunity to appreciate this town's place in history. 

Friday, 7 September I continue on to Besançon an have a brief scout around in the afternoon and plan my route for Saturday and Sunday.

And so to bed. 

Day 22 bis March 2020 to August 2023

• Day 22 bis 
• March 2020 to August 2023

The time from March 2020 to late 2023 was awkward for so many.  There are always those who want their view to prevail always,  And in our society there is no easy solution to a pandemic.  It will take time to get what was done into perspective. 

In late 2022 travel arrangements started to ease.  And then I had a prostate related condition. 

As that was being cleared, my close friend Sue became quite ill.  That resolved itself early June and I felt free to book air travel one way and travel insurance until 30 November. 

Whenever possible during restrictions, I continued my training: the blog summary is illuminating, to me at least.

One statistic that stood out was the gradual lessening of average rate per kilometre.  The fall was not great, but it was a fall.

In early August 2023 I arranged to deliver some LP records to a friend from the 1950s who had been involved in their creation.  So a week in Auckland while all that was done. 

Friday 1 September to London.

Sunday 3 September an NZ father’s day celebration with a few hours at the Imperial War Museum followed by roast dinner near Alastair's home in Twickenham. 

Monday 4 September make a start on the Capital Ring route from Woolwich to have dinner with Sue's half-brother brother near Crystal Palace. 

Tuesday 5 September - continue Capital Ring around to Wandsworth Common.  Back at Twickenham, do a final check on my pack and what's in it.

Wednesday 6 September - train to Langres, my selected restart point. 

And so to bed.

Day 21 bis To March 2020

• Day 21 bis
• Monday, 17 September 2018 to 31 March 2020

I have a little over a week before I return home.

Today I travel, first to Paris and then on to Brussels for four nights and three walks just walking around.

Then back to Al in London for a few nights and home.

Back, also, to continuing training. 

My trip log accumulates more trips and I do some multi day trips, to keep the hand in, as it were.

In the later part on 2019, I begin the planning to return to eastern France and continue to Rome.  This involves planes and travel insurance.  Restart date is late March. 

Early in 2020 the news of a new illness comes to the fore.  But nothing anywhere near where I will be.  Until the first few weeks of March.

The news is of an unexplained illness just below Milan and just a few kilometres from the Via Francigena route.  A son in London, and especially a cousin in Glasgow,  advise not coming.  And the New Zealand Government say don't go as you may not be able to get back.

And so to bed, quite a few times.

Dayy 21 Colombey-des-deux-eglise to Chaumont-en-haute-Marne

• Day 21
• Sunday, 16 September 2018
• Colombey-des-deux-eglise to Chaumont-en-haute-Marne
• 482 km to yesterday
•   30 km today (not including mis-directions)
• 512 km on Via Francigena to date

I breakfast in the hotel and get away as early as.

I’ve decided this will be my last day this season. My hope was to at least get to Reims – did that. And, looking ahead, the next week does not has distance between possible stops and few facilities.

And this day will be a slog.

The start of the only excitement this day happens quite early on. Aa car marked Gendarmerie passes me going in the same direction. When the car has passed I note two occupants.

In three weeks, this is one of the few occasions I have encountered police this close. They have not stopped, so an itinerant is not of interest at present.

When I remember, I make the one fingered salute to oncoming vehicles that is standard at home for all drivers in country area. Because these are urbane French citizens, I am not expecting much of a response. When walking in south-west France, I could categorize the responders from those who did not quite easily.

The inhabitants of SUV and large cars and women aged about 20 to 40 were typically in the “non” category, with the occasional exception. From all other cars/occupants the response rate in April 2016 was about 70%. And, on one occasion, all occupants were waving back.

I trudge along. The success rate for the one finger salute is so-so. Then, in the distance, I see the green Gendarmerie car.

In for a penny, in for a pound. If I’ve already caused some road offence, another won’t cost very much.

I raise my finger, The return is smiles and waves from both occupants.

My first stop is about 25 km into the journe, at a convenience store in what seems to be the middle of nowhere. The cool drink is most welcome.

A river in a deep narrow ravine separates travellers from the town centre. So a slow careful descent and an equally slow careful ascent up the town centre. Can see a hotel opposite the railway station.

Having dropped my stuff, I’m off to look around.

I am surprised to find at least two seminaries for priest training (one being Jesuit, if memory serves: now no longer in use. The Basilica of Saint-Jean-Baptiste has a steady stream of visitors

A meal finishes the day

And so to bed.

Day 20 Bar-sur-Aube to Colombey-des-deux-eglise

• Day 20
• Saturday, 15 September 2018
• Bar-sur-Aube to Colombey-des-deux-eglise
• 472 km to yesterday
•   10 km today (not including mis-directions)
• 482 km on Via Francigena to date

I breakfast in the hotel. On checking out the manager asks to take a photo. I leave my email address and he undertakes to send it to me.

My intention today is Chaumont-en-haute-Marne; about 40 km away.

But I make an awful mess of leaving Bar-sur-Aube.

I have gone several kilometres down a lovely quiet road, when something doesn’t quite feel right. I backtrack to a cross roads, sit down and work it out.

My restart is promising and soon I can see a big Lorraine Cross on a forested hill some distance away. While I am not aiming for it as such, my road to Chaumont will take me close.

My road takes me the other side of the hill and signs tell me of the burial place of Charles de Gaulle and a museum. Through the encounter with de Gaulle at Reims Cathedral, I decide to stop the night. And providence has put an Hotel at this decision point.

I spend the afternoon, firstly at the de Gaulle graves (parents and their daughter) in the cemetery of the parish church. Then to the museum. Here, amongst much other material, I read that de Gaille's “non” to the English joining the Common Market as it was then, was mainly to prevent the Americans “coat-tailing”.

A nice meal at the hotel.

And so to bed.

Day 19 Brienne le Chateau to Bar-sur-Aube

• Day 19
• Friday, 14 September 2018
• Brienne le Chateau to Bar-sur-Aube
• 444 km to yesterday
• 28 km today
• 472 km on Via Francigena to date

I place the keu in the drop box outside the information office and head away.

First stop is Dienville and coffee. And also a large and different parish church.

Carrying on is about 15 km to the next step. Along the way I pass some grand Civil engineering. The presenting issue, according to the story boards, was regular flooding in Paris. And these weeks were designed to contain the flood waters, releasing them when convenient.

The heat is abating and my water supply is less of an issue

The next stop is the siylte of a theme park. There are a few shops selling volf things and I enjoy. About 50 metres away I see a walking couple, but we don’t make ila move to catch-up.

My map says 8 km to the end of the day and I am pleased to get there.

I call into the first accommodation: it is comfortable. I look about the town and note a tired look.

And so to bed.

• Day 18
• Thursday, 13 September 2018
• La Chaussée-sur-Marne to Brienne le Chateau
• 389 km to yesterday
•   55 km today
• 444 km on Via Francigena to date

Leaving the key where arranged at the restaurant, I head to the hotel for breakfast.

Then back to the tow path on the left bank of the Marne Canal and continue to Vitry-le-Francois, just in time for lunch. A good meal and time to look around, especially the parish church. It is large and appears to be well used by its community.

Over lunch, I look at the way ahead. And I don’t like what I see. The next village is at the end of my range for the day and appears to have no facilities, such as grocery or restaurant.

I have gone about 2 km from Vitry, when a cars stops and the driver calls out to me. I cross over and I understand he is offering me a lift towards the next principal stopping point. And, more especially, past the village with no resources. We set off in what I have found is typical Gallic style. The speed signs show us doing well above the posted limit

After about 30 km in this fasion, I get out when the driver is to turn right to Troyes, away from the path I am taking. I have but 6 km to walk into Brienne-le-Chateau.

At Brienne there is a civic information office. For €5 (about NZD 10) I can have a key to a large house.

Dinner is at an estaminet: I have heard and read of estaminet, One selects from a menu of limited choice: the meal is simple but well cooked.

And so to bed.

• Day 17
• Wedesday, 12 September 2018
• Condé-sur-Marne to La Chaussée-sur-Marne
• 354 km to yesterday
•   35 km today
• 389 km on Via Francigena to date

Coffee breakfast, and on the road very early.

I cross over to the tow path on the left bank of the canal.. To add to the readers confusion. With respect to a river or stream the banks describe the sides as you face down stream. If I imagine standing in the middle of the river with back to the flow (facing down stream) and my hands held out pointing to a bank then ...

I am travelling up stream and there is nothing after nothing to see.

There are almost no craft of any type on the canal and, as the surrounding country side is quite flat, almost no locks. At one time each lock had its own staff with buildings to suit. When I came that way that had long gone. Now the boat masters arrange their own lock operations by pulling a cord suspended over the river to open or close the lock gates as needed.

By mid morning I arrive at the champagne capital of the world: Châlons-en-Champagne. I stroll up the main street, have a coffee and visit the Cathedral.

Back on the tow path, I am grateful for the shade the trees between me and the Marne River proper on what is the south side.

Despite the shade I am using up my water quite quickly. Seeing a village across the canal, I go in search. But it is siesta time and everything is closed. Except one small window beside the bakery. And two people are working in the room beyond. I get out my water bottle and, holding it up, tap on the window. The male, nearest the window gruuffly indicates “go away,” The woman goes into the next room and comes back with a bottle of water from the shop, gives it to me with a large smile and will not accept payment.

Late afternoon I cross over to the large town of La Chaussée-sur-Marne as my map tells me there is a hotel.

Yes there is, but it is “complet” full up. But the receptionist (who has slow but very understandable English) says she will enquire about the town. She comes back telling me of a restaurant that is closed for the season and would I go and look. The owner shows me over the outside grounds used for picnics and gives me a key to the building for the toilets.

I return to the hotel for dinner.

And so to bed.

• Day 16
• Tuesday, 11 September 2018
• Reims to Condé-sur-Marne
• 321 km to yesterday
•   33 km today
• 354 km on Via Francigena to date

Early breakfast, and on the road quite early.

The path is on the right bank of the Canal that connects the large Aisne River and Canal (at Reims) with the Marne River and Canal.

The going is good. The large industrial buildings, with loading and unloading docks on the far side, attest to the one time strength of the canal system in north-east France, Belgium and beyond.

Today, the only activity noted is an occasional truck coming or going.

Soon, too soon, there is a sign telling of slips on the path ahead and walking is prohibited. Turning right towards Sillery, I notice a sign saying “GR65”. I’ve been walking for nearly two weeks and this is the first sign for the Grande Randomee that is the Via Francigena in France. I take to it with joy unbounded. Sadly, there is not another.

Pulling up the hill, I see acres and acres of vines with the corners marked with a name. Some of these names are well known champagne brands. And the plantings carry on, above and below the road I am on and well into the distance.

I encounter two villages, enough for a snack but nothing more substantial. It is hot and I refill my water bottle. And I am slow.

Early afternoon and I pass the entrance to village of Trépail and start down it. A woman in the garden tells me there are no café. But invites me in to share their lunch. I don’t hesitate. They send me off with my water bottle refilled and a spring in my step with clear instructions to my destination of Condé-sur-Marne.

I quickly find accommodation and food to top up.

And so to bed.