Day 28 Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune

• Day 28 - day 7 for 2023
• Friday, 15 September 2023
• Aigle to Saint-Maurice d'Agaune
• 691 km to yesterday
•   14 km today
• 705 km on my Via Francigena

The hotel has breakfast in the standard manner.  I go down shortly after 06h30 to be greeted by at least 10 cops in undress uniform.  Clearly not as upmarket as the price might indicate to lesser mortals from way down under.  As I sit down, I notice they are in three distinct groups.  Two from the Swiss railway system, four sitting together are Polizia and another group are Police according, respectively, to the words on their t-shirts. About 30 minutes later a slightly older one changes places and a few moments later, on some signal, they all rise and leave together. I have as much cereal as seems reasonable and leave a bit later.

There is no rush today: it is only 13 km.  And, I think, the shortest stage I have done started with. I emailed the Abbey's gite d'etape the day before and got confirmation of a place.

After about an hour, I am beside the quite wide Rhone River.  I am at once struck how fast it flows and by the milky-green colour.  The latter I guess is from the continuous washing of limestone from the hills.  But the speed of the water is not directly explicable: it hasn't rained for some time and the spring snow melt was also some time ago

Another slow hour and I see a sign for a café just the other side of a 20 metre wide long line of bush that has kept me company.

I go down and almost immediately make a fool of myself: my tiredness or whatever and I have accidentally tipped most of the coffee over me and the table.  I tidy up as best I can. And get another cup. I catch up on the news,  reflect on my tiredness, suspect I might have a temperature and eventually move on.

Five kilometres to go and I am struggling. Yes it is warm, but low 20s and not the high 20s, low 30s of the weekend. 

I decide to not attempt, at this time, any more of the route through Switzerland and especially not look at the route beyond Martigny. Instead I form the intention of transferring to Milano on Saturday, spend Sunday looking around.  To have the same pattern for Torino and then return to Via Francigena from Vercelli. 

I struggle into Saint-Maurice, drop my pack, say the morning office in the Abbey's church and go and get coffee and pastry.

Tonight's gite (hostel) residents are gathering. We are a couple from Melbourne (35 years married), two solo Scots, a French speaker and me.

The Community eucharist is at 18h.  The celebrant is relatively young while the remainder of the community are quite old priests.  As today celebrates the birth of Mary, they are habited in alb with a soft (Mary) blue stole. The chanting of the psalms and canticles by the community and others in choir is soothing to hear.

I make the travel and accommodation arrangements. 

And so to bed.

Day 27 Montreux to Aigle

• Day 27 - day 6 for 2023
• Thursday, 14 September 2023
• Montreux to Aigle
• 675 km to yesterday
•   16 km today
• 691 km on my Via Francigena

The hostel has breakfast in the standard manner and I imbibe.

As I set off, Henrietta and I wish one another well.

It is but 5 km along the side of Lac Leman.  While I am coming to the eastern end, the Lac stretches all the way back to Geneva at the western end.  There is much to see along the lakeside at this hour and many things capture my attention as I pass and some I even stop for.  Like many European towns I have encountered before, one aspect is defences against marauding intruders.

Shortly after leaving the Lac, I am at the town of Villeneuve.  It is shortly after 09h and the downtown area I am in is bustling.

I quickly find a wonderful café doing a roaring trade.  What was pain-au-raisin on Tuesday morning at Hopiteaux du Neufs has stayed the same visually and physically but is now called escargot - very much more exciting to be eating a snail.

My intention today is Aigle.

Across the road from the café is what, very much from the outside, looks like as a church.  I enter to say the morning office and find I have entered the town administration offices and, in particular,  The Information (Tourist) Office.  The lovely lady agrees to phone the two or three lower priced accommodation properties. One say she has a bed not "sold" and please use the nominated booking agent. I do that to find "nothing available".  The other properties do not respond.  Ah well!  

While waiting and using a map, I point out some land in the south west Pacific that look like a fish, with the mouth being near where I live.  The story of Maui, his brothers and the upturned waka goes down well. (as also happened at Romainmotier and Montreux, and as will also happen at Milano - and at each I also explain the farewell on parting - kia kaha).

As no response from the other properties of forthcoming, I bid kia kaha and set off for Aigle, now quite late in the morning. .

After another hour or so, I pass through Roche and pass by what looks like a grand restaurant doing a good trade also. I settle in and enjoy a tres bon large "small salad please".  And a glass of wine, s"il vous plait.

Again I surrender myself to the way.  I am definitely in the final reaches of the Rhone Valley in Switzerland.  Like the Waikato and Lake Taupo, the Rhone passes through Lac Leman to continue from Geneva through France and emerge into the Mediterranean. But I don't see any of that today.

The temperature is still warm and I am struggling a little.  As I walk I think about covid as a possibility.  It all seems to be in the head.  Is it just tiredness?

On this last 5 km, I see in the distance what look like vineyards on steep slopes.  And not just vineyards. Other crops occup the same slopes.  As do residential areas, seemingly well away from villages and towns, with no apparent centres.  And no apparent roads to and from.

And the hills either side of the valley just seem perpendicular with a jagged skyline.

I struggle into Aigle, find the Information Office and the only accommodation available is the hotel next door. A mere snip at Swiss Francs 172 for the night.  The property itself offers a special deal for one person of CHF 150.  The room is comfortable but less than generously sized and no special features - just a pretty standard, but small, NZ motel room.

I got to the centre of Aigle, near the large train station (for a town of about 10 000 inhabitants) and have a biere.

And so to bed.

Day 26 Romainmotier to Montreux

• Day 26 - day 05 for 2023
• Wednesday, 13 September 2023
• Romainmotier to Montreux
• 621 km to yesterday
•   54 km today   (14 walked + 40 by train )
• 675 km on my Via Francigena

I start early and make good progress along the official Via Francigena route 70 to La Sharraz for café au lait and some pastries.

I decide to leave the 70 route in favour of the road.  The official route is much much longer and I feel much safer on the roads.

Several km on a driver stops and offers a ride to the next town, Cossonay: I accept and the distance is soon covered. I stay for a while to drink water and say the morning office in a protestant church, mainly because they have a Via Francigena stamp for my credential. 

I continue to Penthalaz and stop at a Vietnamese restaurant in the station for a bowl of soup.

It has begun to consistently drizzle and I continue to Lausanne by train. 

The Lausanne Information Office can only find a bed at 200 Swiss Francs (NZD 400).  But a possibility of one near Montreux look interesting. 

I train to Montreux and the Information Office there makes the booking. 

Another occasion where my long time map lets me down.  While good with the big picture, on a route like this it decides many changes of direction are necessary in an attempt to save distance.  I try to straighten it out but the planner says some bits aren't walkable. So off I go, and while I get there the constant changes take a mental toll.  Also the drizzle at Penthalaz has firmed up and I put on the parka.  I'm feeling hotter than I would like,  but it is only 30 minutes or so.

This is a Youth Hostel, having a centenial celebration this year. The receptionist is a joy and finds a room with a vacant lower bunk.  In return I tell the story about Maui and his fish (as I did with the receptionist at the Romainmotier Info Office).

I then head off to explore La Grande Rue and find a meal.  There are some marvelous, but very expensive shops.  Subway provides the salad dinner. I return by bus and see S John's Anglican Church right alongside.  The door is open,  so in I go, intending to say the evening office. While open, the furniture is be re-ordered and John, the parish priest hailing from Liverpool and a group are about to start a parish council meeting,  After some pleasantries I am off.

One of my roommates, Henrietta, says she has a beer outside before turning in for the night. She is from lower Austria and, for my sad ear, has a good command of English. We have a longish conversation about nothing and everything.

 

And so to our own beds.

Day 25 Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier

• Day 25   -   day 04 for 2023
• Tuesday, 12 September 202
• Les Hôpitaux-Neufs to Romainmotier 
• 600 km to yesterday
•   21 km today
• 621 km on my Via Francigena

I am also looking forward to this stage. For two reasons that I will note as they come up.

Le Sommet hoste, while excellent in all other respects to,, has breakfast at gentleman's hours with a consequential late start.

While only 20 km today there are things to note. I am out the door at 06h30 and buying some pain-au-raisin a few minutes later.

Well before 07h30 I have passed through the last French village, Jounge, and striking down a well trod path down into the Orbe Valley.  Vallorbe is to my right, Ballaigues is next with Les Clees and Orbe further down the valley.  They valley is best described as a canyon with steep limestone cliffs defining the north and west sides.  The closest I know in Aoteroa would be the Buller Valley after Inganahua Junction and the Rangitikei Valley in various places.

But the Orbe Valley is so much more dramatic. 

Small French settlements are passed.

Theb there is just a rough path with a French display board about good relationships and then a Swiss notice board about all the documents to have ready for inspection at the border post. 

No national flags in evidence on either side.  This I knew from my research.

I step through the gap in the hedge to be given a greeting by a slightly bemused, Swiss, farmer.

But things are ever so slightly different.

For starters, there are a very large number of firewood stacks, sometimes almost as far as the next bend in the road.

And I soon get a message to say my data plan does not include Switzerland, so more money for an add-on please. 

Ballaigues comes up quite soon. A good time for some small purchase in the Four Square / Tesco local , which also doubles as the local café. 

Another difference for walking is the signage.  Here, as I see it,  signage seems to be meant as a reminder to local wakers and not definitive details. So, foe me there are gaps that I have to fill in.

An example: I have almost got to the bottom of the valley an a sign points back the way I have come and forward. There are two paths slightly to the left (one of which has some slightly flattened gras (and not visible from the standpoint) and one slightly to the right.  The one that mattered on this occasion was the middle of the three with the slightly flatenned grass.  And, after trial and error, it is the only one actually going down hill.

Towards the bottom, the path goes down steeply with handrails.

Crossing the Orbe is a dream on a very rustic and very sturdy wooden bridge.  The path, now on the right bank of the Orbe, is a joy.  It has it its up and down challenges.  But, unlike the path beside the Loue after Ornans on Day 23, it is generally flat and wide. When the limestone walls present an issue, the solution includes a wall on the down hill side tied back to the uphill side, steel handrails and, occasionally a tunnel cut through the limestone, one as long as 30 metres or so.  No anxiety creating moments and I pass about six groups going the other way and one group passes me.  And this is a Tuesday.

I reach Les Clees. I had stopped at Ballaigues to try and resolve the data plan for Switzerland: this country is neither EU or the other grouping, EEA. They seem to prefer just being independent on everything.

I feel as though wasted time has to be caught up.

But I decide to seriously climb up to the café away from my route.  And, I am pleased I did.

In the café is the owner ans two locals having a chat. Coffee ordered I am asked where I am from and where am I going.

Having answered, I ask if they know of accommodation for the night.  We agree on the camping ground at  Romainmotier,  which was my intention.  After some hiccups, they talk with someone who also has English.  I confirm a cabin is preferred.  And the male customer offers to drive me.

Be8ng driven over the next section conflicts me.

My research for this section, which was not but now is part of the official Via Francigena route through Switzerland, would have me walk alongside a small part of the railway from London to Venice that Cathy and I took in August 2006, as part of our honeymoon. 

But we are soon underway and his route is exactly as I seen on my maps. He soon drops me at the camping ground. 

I visit the Abbey Church at Romainmotier: simple as the Cluniac style of the Benedictine order prescribes, all necessities are the and well, but not over, done.

I have not had a real meal for a few days and mine prepares an omelet, pasta and vegetables, seasoned with gruyere cheese along with a glass of pinot noir and a largish glass of sangria.

And so to bed

Day 24 Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs

• Day 24
• Monday, 11 September 2023
• Pontarlier to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs
• 580 km to yesterday
•   20 km today  (using my route)
• 600 km on the Via Francigena

I am looking forward to this stage.  Since I started planning my Via Francigena, this last stage in France seemed problematic. 

Compounded by each country making its own decision as to where lay the route of Archbishop Sigeric cica AD 950.  The Swiss said through Yverdon. And so the last few kilometres in France, from the intersection at La Cluse, followed that dictat.

Other published routes also came through La Cluse and then struck uphill towards Les Hopitaux Neuf and Jounge with the border just beyond. 

Using the detail in Open Street Maps, I spotted a possible, and possibly much simpler alternative.  Only one way to find out.

I also noted the official route in France from Pontarlier to La Cluse had been charged from an impossible climb up to Château de Joux to a very slightly less challenging climb up a hill to the east of the main road N57.  Previously I had seen a cycling route beside the river Doubs, also towards La Cluse.

But before testing my research, I have been invited to an early coffee at the Sapeurs-Pompiers station at Pontarlier by the ambo team from yesterday. 

Then to have a brief look around the centre of Pontarlier.  The church is open and I say the morning office and set off..

The riverside cycling route is easy peasy and I am at the rail crossing beyond La Cluse to see a cross country train pass on its way to nearby (as trains go) Vallorbe in Switzerland. 

I find the former rail pathway, marked with a large information board and get going.  This is about 8 km from my start point.  And is about 800 metres above sea level.

The path is generally good.  A feature, much to be desired today, is the shade offered along the way.

There is a noticeable steady climb over the next 5 km, to the terminus for the tourist railway.  The terminus has undercover seating: this is also much appreciated today.

The path continues beside,  but not too close beside, the railway.  The going underfoot varies from good to difficult. The difficulty comes from the railway ballast under the sleepless migrating to the path.  A cyclist passed further back, so no problems there.

Another 3 km to look over the hill in the middle distance. Obviously a skifield with well manicured slopes waiting for snow. 

And now a mixture of urban roads and rural paths and another path beside the railway to Les Hôpitaux-Neufs.

Combined with two hot days and this, coupled with minimal sleep,  I am buggered.

A boulangerie offers cold drink and pain au raisin.  I  am so tired, I sit outside the shop to taketh orange juice.  A customer comes out and gently asks me to use the seats across the street. She asks what I am doing and I reply "to Rome".  As she goes back into the shop, I move across the road.

Refreshed I find the Mayor's Office.  The person there does not have English but takes me outside to someone who does.  A hostel close by is rung for me: I go to book in.  Le Sommet - very new.

There being no restaurants open  dinner is more Pain au raisin from the Boulangerie: the shop keeper throws in a gift and I thanher profusely. I repair to a bar across the road for vin ordinaire. 

And so to bed

Day 23 Ornans to Pontarlier

• Day 23
• Sunday, 10 September 2023
• Ornans to Pontarlier 
• 544 km to yesterday                   (32 km to yesterday)
•   36 km today 
• 580 km on the Via Francigena  (68 km for 2023)

I break camp welll before daybreak and underway at just before sunrise. 

The path is through verdant bush but the going underfoot is not the easiest.  The opportunity for change comes at the first village, Montgesoye.

It is Sunday and I am not expecting much. But a small shop is open, I make a small purchase and ask about un café. The shopkeeper very helpfully steps outside and points the way.  

I study the traffic for several minutes and decide to walk on the road, even though it winds back and forth.  

All road users (mainly cyclists at this hour) cooperate with one another without difficulty. 

And in no time I reach the next town:, Vuilafans, and a coffee.

Lods comes up quite quickly and the coffee goes down equally quickly.

Despite the winding road there is no aggressive driving.  My practice for road walking, developed over many years is working.  The main ingredient is to read the road and the traffic ahead.  As a driver myself, I try to be aware of what a driver might do.

The next town, Mouthier Saint-Pierre, will be the last for a while and I ask only for water. My own water supply is holding well, despite the heat.

I strike off and soon see notices saying the Via Francigena route is blocked for repairs needed to keep users safe.  An alternative is on the other side of the river and my map says it connects to the main path about 5 km ahead.

I  casually look at alternatives and note the road is many km longer and quite windy.  So the alternative it is.

To start, the path appears overgrown and little used. But that soon changes and I make good progress.  Then there are little niggles.  A fallen tree,  mud, not a clear path ahead, them clarity.  Each time there is a niggle, it seems to me to be worse than the niggle before.  With the fallen trees it means taking of my pack, passing it across, scramble over, recover the pack and continue.  Other niggles, more critical to me, are a narrow dirt path with a low side to the river in the canyon below and a high side to the bank above.

After many of these, requiring attention and effort, I am tiring and anxious. A previous history of a version of vertigo is very much front of mind.  That laid me up for 10 days and unable to drive for another 20 days.  Repeat not required.

The final straw for me is just ahead.  What appears to be narrow steps cut into the limestone wall to my right with the river a good drop to my left.  I stop and backtrack a few metres to a clearing. I check that I am on the right path. I am.

While I have a text conversation with my son in London, a man and young boy pass me.  I get confirmation that I am seeing narrow stone steps  ahead.  My map says less than 500 metres ahead to join the normal Via Francigena route.  Because of the conditions of the path I have already traveled,  I feel quite unable to go back or go forward.

After much consideration I decide to push the button on the personal locator beacon I carry..

After a conversation via the emergency number, I am told a helicopter is being prepared. 

When I hear the sound I wave a top. While I am doing this, I get a tap on the shoulder.  While startled, I am so relieved. 

My pack, then me, are hoisted up and taken to a grassed spot at the end of this track.

While waiting for my shoulder bag to come with the ground party, my anxiety and stress drop quickly away.   But my tiredness remains.

Apart from the three in the helicopter, there is a ground party of nine.  Six from a local station (Ouhans, which was to have been my next stop) and three with an ambulance from Pontarlier. 

Asked if I had accommodation for the night, I show the confirmation for the booking. 

The ambo team drop me at the front door. 

And so to bed.

Day 22 Besançon to Ornans

• Day 22
• Saturday, 9 September 2023
• Besançon to Ornans 
• 512 km to September 2018
•   32 km today 
• 544 km on the Via Francigena  (32 km for 2023)

Like Langres and Belfort,  the hotel at Besançon provides a comprehensive, but not cooked, breakfast.  I dine like a king and set off before 07h.

Having walked through the town the afternoon before,  I take the opportunity to walk around down river side of the oxbow shape surrounding the city centre. 

And then to climb up to the chapel and WW2 memorial at the top.

I don't know why local route planned find the most difficult paths to have us walk.

But they do.

The designated path starts off steep and then becomes almost vertical, followed by about 60 steps that don't have much space for a foot and with out a handrail.  To keep my pack from pulling me back, should I mis-step, I feel compelled to climb up on all fours.  The final hurdle is moving on to the road which itself is at quite a steep angle.  Fortunately a passing cyclist pauses to render assistance. 

I make the Francican chapel and pause to say the morning office.  Then onto the WW2 liberation memorial for 8 September 1944.  There was a celebration the day before in central Besançon 

Then down the other side along a Ridgeline with bush either side - quite lovely to be amongst but he path itself left a lot to be desired..

On reaching "civilization" there is a 40 minute walk to a turning point and back to a path just a few hundred metres to my right.  A local uses his knowledge to have me avoid a long walk in the open with heat build-up.

The saving is rewarded by a walk through a green belt and to the western side of the village of Saone.  And the route markings are goog, until I miss one.  I am only 1 km of course!  And the heat is not helpful. As I get ready to turn around I see a car coming from the "wong direction" and put out my thumb. He stops and I ask hopefully for Mamirolle, my intended lunch stop.  My pack and poles go in the trailer and off we set.

But not to Mamirolle. 

First to a building site and his mother-in-law and then to his own home for an impromptu lunch he cooks.  We exchange life histories using a translation app on our phones. I meet his wife, four sons and their wife's.  After several hours we are off, not to Mamirolle but to Ornans.

I have eaten and drunk well.  So stay in the Tourist Office - the camping ground is a good option and is beside the route to Rome.  My first night on the way is in my tent!  It has been a long, but enjoyable day.  I finish with a beer from the camping ground restaurant. Here I decide my next stop is Pontarlier and make a booking for the cheapest hotel on the edge of the town.

And so to bed.

Day 22 bis plus - via Belfort move to Besançon

• Day 22 bis plus
• Thursday, 6 September: 

Being "on the ground" everything looks and feels different. 

First: there is a heatwave starting just as Autumn get underway.  This is not a good time to be actually walking long distances with minimal cover, and café and similar facilities along the way.

Second: accommodation is had to find ahead.

I decide to move on to Besançon. The first leg to Belfort is subject to delay, so overnight there.  This gives an opportunity to appreciate this town's place in history. 

Friday, 7 September I continue on to Besançon an have a brief scout around in the afternoon and plan my route for Saturday and Sunday.

And so to bed. 

Day 22 bis March 2020 to August 2023

• Day 22 bis 
• March 2020 to August 2023

The time from March 2020 to late 2023 was awkward for so many.  There are always those who want their view to prevail always,  And in our society there is no easy solution to a pandemic.  It will take time to get what was done into perspective. 

In late 2022 travel arrangements started to ease.  And then I had a prostate related condition. 

As that was being cleared, my close friend Sue became quite ill.  That resolved itself early June and I felt free to book air travel one way and travel insurance until 30 November. 

Whenever possible during restrictions, I continued my training: the blog summary is illuminating, to me at least.

One statistic that stood out was the gradual lessening of average rate per kilometre.  The fall was not great, but it was a fall.

In early August 2023 I arranged to deliver some LP records to a friend from the 1950s who had been involved in their creation.  So a week in Auckland while all that was done. 

Friday 1 September to London.

Sunday 3 September an NZ father’s day celebration with a few hours at the Imperial War Museum followed by roast dinner near Alastair's home in Twickenham. 

Monday 4 September make a start on the Capital Ring route from Woolwich to have dinner with Sue's half-brother brother near Crystal Palace. 

Tuesday 5 September - continue Capital Ring around to Wandsworth Common.  Back at Twickenham, do a final check on my pack and what's in it.

Wednesday 6 September - train to Langres, my selected restart point. 

And so to bed.

Day 21 bis To March 2020

• Day 21 bis
• Monday, 17 September 2018 to 31 March 2020

I have a little over a week before I return home.

Today I travel, first to Paris and then on to Brussels for four nights and three walks just walking around.

Then back to Al in London for a few nights and home.

Back, also, to continuing training. 

My trip log accumulates more trips and I do some multi day trips, to keep the hand in, as it were.

In the later part on 2019, I begin the planning to return to eastern France and continue to Rome.  This involves planes and travel insurance.  Restart date is late March. 

Early in 2020 the news of a new illness comes to the fore.  But nothing anywhere near where I will be.  Until the first few weeks of March.

The news is of an unexplained illness just below Milan and just a few kilometres from the Via Francigena route.  A son in London, and especially a cousin in Glasgow,  advise not coming.  And the New Zealand Government say don't go as you may not be able to get back.

And so to bed, quite a few times.

Dayy 21 Colombey-des-deux-eglise to Chaumont-en-haute-Marne

day 21   Colombey-des-deux-eglise - Chaumont-en-haute-Marne

• Sunday, 16 September 2018
• 482 km to yesterday
•   30 km today (not including mis-directions)
• 512 km on Via Francigena to date

I breakfast in the hotel and get away as early as.

I’ve decided this will be my last day this season. My hope was to at least get to Reims – did that. And, looking ahead, the next week does not has distance between possible stops and few facilities.

And this day will be a slog.

The start of the only excitement this day happens quite early on. Aa car marked Gendarmerie passes me going in the same direction. When the car has passed I note two occupants.

In three weeks, this is one of the few occasions I have encountered police this close. They have not stopped, so an itinerant is not of interest at present.

When I remember, I make the one fingered salute to oncoming vehicles that is standard at home for all drivers in country area. Because these are urbane French citizens, I am not expecting much of a response. When walking in south-west France, I could categorize the responders from those who did not quite easily.

The inhabitants of SUV and large cars and women aged about 20 to 40 were typically in the “non” category, with the occasional exception. From all other cars/occupants the response rate in April 2016 was about 70%. And, on one occasion, all occupants were waving back.

I trudge along. The success rate for the one finger salute is so-so. Then, in the distance, I see the green Gendarmerie car.

In for a penny, in for a pound. If I’ve already caused some road offence, another won’t cost very much.

I raise my finger, The return is smiles and waves from both occupants.

My first stop is about 25 km into the journe, at a convenience store in what seems to be the middle of nowhere. The cool drink is most welcome.

A river in a deep narrow ravine separates travellers from the town centre. So a slow careful descent and an equally slow careful ascent up the town centre. Can see a hotel opposite the railway station.

Having dropped my stuff, I’m off to look around.

I am surprised to find at least two seminaries for priest training (one being Jesuit, if memory serves: now no longer in use. The Basilica of Saint-Jean-Baptiste has a steady stream of visitors

A meal finishes the day

And so to bed.

Day 20 Bar-sur-Aube to Colombey-des-deux-eglise

• Day 20
• Saturday, 15 September 2018
• Bar-sur-Aube to Colombey-des-deux-eglise
• 472 km to yesterday
•   10 km today (not including mis-directions)
• 482 km on Via Francigena to date

I breakfast in the hotel. On checking out the manager asks to take a photo. I leave my email address and he undertakes to send it to me.

My intention today is Chaumont-en-haute-Marne; about 40 km away.

But I make an awful mess of leaving Bar-sur-Aube.

I have gone several kilometres down a lovely quiet road, when something doesn’t quite feel right. I backtrack to a cross roads, sit down and work it out.

My restart is promising and soon I can see a big Lorraine Cross on a forested hill some distance away. While I am not aiming for it as such, my road to Chaumont will take me close.

My road takes me the other side of the hill and signs tell me of the burial place of Charles de Gaulle and a museum. Through the encounter with de Gaulle at Reims Cathedral, I decide to stop the night. And providence has put an Hotel at this decision point.

I spend the afternoon, firstly at the de Gaulle graves (parents and their daughter) in the cemetery of the parish church. Then to the museum. Here, amongst much other material, I read that de Gaille's “non” to the English joining the Common Market as it was then, was mainly to prevent the Americans “coat-tailing”.

A nice meal at the hotel.

And so to bed.

Day 19 Brienne le Chateau to Bar-sur-Aube

• Day 19
• Friday, 14 September 2018
• Brienne le Chateau to Bar-sur-Aube
• 444 km to yesterday
• 28 km today
• 472 km on Via Francigena to date

I place the keu in the drop box outside the information office and head away.

First stop is Dienville and coffee. And also a large and different parish church.

Carrying on is about 15 km to the next step. Along the way I pass some grand Civil engineering. The presenting issue, according to the story boards, was regular flooding in Paris. And these weeks were designed to contain the flood waters, releasing them when convenient.

The heat is abating and my water supply is less of an issue

The next stop is the siylte of a theme park. There are a few shops selling volf things and I enjoy. About 50 metres away I see a walking couple, but we don’t make ila move to catch-up.

My map says 8 km to the end of the day and I am pleased to get there.

I call into the first accommodation: it is comfortable. I look about the town and note a tired look.

And so to bed.

• Day 18
• Thursday, 13 September 2018
• La Chaussée-sur-Marne to Brienne le Chateau
• 389 km to yesterday
•   55 km today
• 444 km on Via Francigena to date

Leaving the key where arranged at the restaurant, I head to the hotel for breakfast.

Then back to the tow path on the left bank of the Marne Canal and continue to Vitry-le-Francois, just in time for lunch. A good meal and time to look around, especially the parish church. It is large and appears to be well used by its community.

Over lunch, I look at the way ahead. And I don’t like what I see. The next village is at the end of my range for the day and appears to have no facilities, such as grocery or restaurant.

I have gone about 2 km from Vitry, when a cars stops and the driver calls out to me. I cross over and I understand he is offering me a lift towards the next principal stopping point. And, more especially, past the village with no resources. We set off in what I have found is typical Gallic style. The speed signs show us doing well above the posted limit

After about 30 km in this fasion, I get out when the driver is to turn right to Troyes, away from the path I am taking. I have but 6 km to walk into Brienne-le-Chateau.

At Brienne there is a civic information office. For €5 (about NZD 10) I can have a key to a large house.

Dinner is at an estaminet: I have heard and read of estaminet, One selects from a menu of limited choice: the meal is simple but well cooked.

And so to bed.

Conde-sur-Marne to La Chaussee-sur-Marne

• Day 17
• Wedesday, 12 September 2018
• Condé-sur-Marne to La Chaussée-sur-Marne
• 354 km to yesterday
•   35 km today
• 389 km on Via Francigena to date

Coffee breakfast, and on the road very early.

I cross over to the tow path on the left bank of the canal.. To add to the readers confusion. With respect to a river or stream the banks describe the sides as you face down stream. If I imagine standing in the middle of the river with back to the flow (facing down stream) and my hands held out pointing to a bank then ...

I am travelling up stream and there is nothing after nothing to see.

There are almost no craft of any type on the canal and, as the surrounding country side is quite flat, almost no locks. At one time each lock had its own staff with buildings to suit. When I came that way that had long gone. Now the boat masters arrange their own lock operations by pulling a cord suspended over the river to open or close the lock gates as needed.

By mid morning I arrive at the champagne capital of the world: Châlons-en-Champagne. I stroll up the main street, have a coffee and visit the Cathedral.

Back on the tow path, I am grateful for the shade the trees between me and the Marne River proper on what is the south side.

Despite the shade I am using up my water quite quickly. Seeing a village across the canal, I go in search. But it is siesta time and everything is closed. Except one small window beside the bakery. And two people are working in the room beyond. I get out my water bottle and, holding it up, tap on the window. The male, nearest the window gruuffly indicates “go away,” The woman goes into the next room and comes back with a bottle of water from the shop, gives it to me with a large smile and will not accept payment.

Late afternoon I cross over to the large town of La Chaussée-sur-Marne as my map tells me there is a hotel.

Yes there is, but it is “complet” full up. But the receptionist (who has slow but very understandable English) says she will enquire about the town. She comes back telling me of a restaurant that is closed for the season and would I go and look. The owner shows me over the outside grounds used for picnics and gives me a key to the building for the toilets.

I return to the hotel for dinner.

And so to bed.

• Day 16
• Tuesday, 11 September 2018
• Reims to Condé-sur-Marne
• 321 km to yesterday
•   33 km today
• 354 km on Via Francigena to date

Early breakfast, and on the road quite early.

The path is on the right bank of the Canal that connects the large Aisne River and Canal (at Reims) with the Marne River and Canal.

The going is good. The large industrial buildings, with loading and unloading docks on the far side, attest to the one time strength of the canal system in north-east France, Belgium and beyond.

Today, the only activity noted is an occasional truck coming or going.

Soon, too soon, there is a sign telling of slips on the path ahead and walking is prohibited. Turning right towards Sillery, I notice a sign saying “GR65”. I’ve been walking for nearly two weeks and this is the first sign for the Grande Randomee that is the Via Francigena in France. I take to it with joy unbounded. Sadly, there is not another.

Pulling up the hill, I see acres and acres of vines with the corners marked with a name. Some of these names are well known champagne brands. And the plantings carry on, above and below the road I am on and well into the distance.

I encounter two villages, enough for a snack but nothing more substantial. It is hot and I refill my water bottle. And I am slow.

Early afternoon and I pass the entrance to village of Trépail and start down it. A woman in the garden tells me there are no café. But invites me in to share their lunch. I don’t hesitate. They send me off with my water bottle refilled and a spring in my step with clear instructions to my destination of Condé-sur-Marne.

I quickly find accommodation and food to top up.

And so to bed.

 

• day 15
• Monday, 10 September 2018
• Reims stay put
• 321 km to yesterday
•      0 km today
• 321 km on Via Francigena to date

After breakfast, I find suggestions for what to do today.  

Top of my list is the Musée de la Reddition du 7 mai 1945.  A museum commemorating the end of World War II in Europe at the actual site of surrender.

It is just over 1 km from the Hotel Arden: I am there shortly after opening time.  The principal use of the building is a polytechnic, Lycée Franklin Roosevelt.

And the building had a similar use in 1994 and 1945, so the museum material said, to act as a disguise.  That part of the building that is a museum now was not a museum then, its was the headquarters for Eisenhower (as supreme commander) and his Allied staff as they directed the war to a conclusion.  And the surrender of Germany on 7 May 1945.

The space taken for the headquarters (and now the museum) was not large.  In a large room, one wall was taken up by a map of all of France and much of Germany.  The focus is on the relevant towns and the railway connections between them - a single track had a narrow line and double tracks had a wider line.  Simplicity - no motorways then and canals did not seem to feature.  

We are also carefully told that all allies, France, Great Britain and USSR (read Russia) negotiated the surrender terms and all was signed very early that morning.  And we are equally carefully told that Russian Head of State (Joseph Stalin) required a surrender ceremony in Moscow.  That was arranged for 8 May.  And that date has become the recognised date of surrender for all.

Shopping and a walk about completes the day.

And so to bed.

 

• day 14
• Sunday, 9 September 2018
• Cormichy to Reims
• 301 km to yesterday
•   20 km today
• 321 km on Via Francigena to date

I was great at setting up last night and was most uncomfortable. All packed up quite quickly and off not long after sunrise.  My map says about 20 km to the centre of Reims.  And navigation is straight forward.

What I don't anticipate is the roller-coaster like country-side.  Gently up a small hill, gently down the other side to stream, gently up a small hill, gently down the other ... in cycles of about 1 km between hill tops.  I note the road is now the D944.  Later I find the D1044 is in the Aisne Region and continues as D944 in the Marne Region.  Important to know.

In the city centre it is Sunday and I am having trouble finding my way around.  Eventually I alight on the Hotel Arden, 2 star with bed and breakfast.  Two night.  The room is comfortable with an outlook over the street - and there is a bath.

It is early afternoon and I go walk about.

The city centre is almost billiard table flat and sort of laid out in a grid pattern.

The Cathedral is less than 1 km away, so off I go.  It is a grand open space, and open for visitors.  Unlike many (most!) ancient abbeys and cathedrals in England and Spain that I know of, the floor from west door to the chapels at the east end is at the same level throughout.  Only the chancel (for choir and sanctuary) is raised about three modest steps and surrounded by a open grille, so all is visible.  It is hard to comprehend that during WW1 the roof caught alight and was destroyed but the walls stood.  Restoration started in 1919, according to the info sheets, being interrupted by WW2.  Amongst all the information I noticed a photo of President de Gaulle of France and Chancellor Adenauer of (West) Germany.  The caption says they were commemorating reconciliation for all the wars between these two countries since the early 1800s.  The photo was taken in front of where I was standing.  I recall it was just a week ago, at Arras, where the short movie after the tour of Carriere Wellington expressed the hope for no more wars in Europe.  And this photo signaled the start of the development of the European Union.

Mass is scheduled for 18h.  But a message does the rounds: cancelled.

And so to bed.

 

• day 13
• Saturday, 8 September 2018
• Laon to Cormichy
• 262 km to yesterday
•   39 km today
• 301 km on Via Francigena to date

Breakfast has been set out early for me and I am away a short while after daybreak.

Yesterday I got some background about Chemin des Dames: in WWI the enemy held the high ground to the south with French forces on the lower ground surrounding Laon.  A French plan was prepared to dislodge their enemy.  The timing was for late April 1917 (remember the Kiwi tunnellers at Arras and the Canadians at nearby Vimy).

As I set off, through the medieval gate and down to low ground, I can see the ridge along which Chemin des Dames runs from west to east.

My only target today is to make progress and meet whatever I encounter along the way.  I also note the "official" Via Francigena route is to the east before turning south to Reims.  I will touch on it at only one point, and that is accidental.

By mid morning I have achieved the largish town with the equally large name of Bruyères-et-Montbérault.  And it is a village market day: time for some fruit.  And across the road is the parish church and it is open.  And the seating is arranged intimately with the booklets telling of a wedding later that day.  Curiosity satisfied I continue on.

An hour along the road, at the village of Monthenault, I can see a very modern church a little of to one side and, joy of joys, it also is open.  I learn it was built in the 1930s and is a joy to behold, both inside and out.  Several years later I read the building is suspect in some way.  But a mention of that is not made in its Wikipedia (FR) page.

A few more km and I have coffee in an upmarket beside a lake.  And it costs.

I escape quickly and ascend up to the ridge to Cerny-en-Laonnois on Chemin des Dames.  Here I encounter, not for the first time, a very large Nécropole nationale.  More interestingly there is a German military cemetery along side and a few metres along a British Memorial Column.  And, in the mix a chapel for the use of those visiting these places.

I do not take stock of time elapsed or distance travelled since setting out and press on, east along Chemin des Dames.  I pass the Dragon's Cavern (a former quarry used for shelter by both sides in WWI - but at different times).  Then I encounter a memorial to the wars of 1814 (that also has a related link to 1916). And then a monument to the Basque Division that fought here in WWI.  I feel a call back to the Basque region that occupies parts of France and Spain and proudly hosts several camino to Santiago.

I now read my map for the town ahead and see they have a gite: in fact I haven't read properly or with any intelligence (blame my tiredness).  Yes, there is a gite in nearby Craonnelle.  But a gite is not a gite d'etape: the first is typically an upmarket motel or BnB, the second is a hostel for backpackers.  Gite typically will not accept backpackers and the clientele for gite would not be seen dead in a gite d'etape.  I walk into the village but the gite staff don't want to talk.  So I walk out.

So far today I've walked about 23 km.  And it is warm.

Over a hour later I reach Pontavert and the hotel Relais de Fleurette.  They have a room, but it is very pricey.  I decide to continue.  I cross the Aisne river and the related canal.  While I don't notice till now, I have moved through the Aisne Region into the Marne Region of France.  The British forces 100 years ago only talked of the Somme (where I was just a few days ago).  For the French Aisne and Marne are the rivers and regions of note.

Dusk is approaching as I enter the next town, Cormichy.  I do a circuit, looking for somewhere to set up my little campsite.  First east a few hundred metres then circle south around the parish church heading west.  Here I see a sign for pizza.  That solves dinner.  I enter and a chap with English talks with me.  When he understands I am walking to Rome is asks me to come past the counter and show me a photo on the fridge.  It is of him, with his pack, in S Peter's Plaza, Rome.  The pizza is free and the bottle of wine 2 Euro.  And he point me in the direction of a run down orchard on the road towards Reims.  I will sleep well.

And so to bed.

 

• day 12
• Friday, 7 September 2018
• Crepy to Laon
• 252 km to yesterday
•   10 km today
• 262 km on Via Francigena to date

Break camp just after sunrise and away.  The mesa top city of Laon is ahead of me all the way this morning.  The D1044, that caused me grief yesterday still has no shoulders to walk.  However, the road is straight and visibility ahead is excellent: if a need arise, I just step onto the grass berm beside the dashed white line and road edge.

On the roads for the past two days were large signs with a brown background (directions to museums, art galleries, etc). And just one phrase "Chemin de Dames" (Ladies Road).  Why is a road also a museum? That gets tucked away for a question to others.

In days past, cities and towns took fortifications against marauders very seriously.  Examples seen before taking up long-distance walking included York, Chester, Carcassonne, Le Quesnoy and Colmar.  Then Lauzerte (between Cahors and Moissac) is a mesa (or butte) with a steep pull up from the roads below.  And Laon is in that mould.  So where to find the narrow path to get to the top and the city.  My map gives me a clue and off I go up the Rampe Saint-Just and debouche onto Rue Saint-Jean (together with Rue Saint-Martin, I find later in the day) form the main thoroughfare of about 2 km across the flat mesa top.  At this end there are generous footpaths on both sides with a single carriageway for motors and bollards to keep everything in its proper place. 

As I walk I encounter a hanging sign for Les Chevalier Hotel and go in.  It is late morning and I have a bed for the night.  Before leaving my stuff with the manager, I check the pronunciation of the city's name: as I hear it La'on, but run together.  I set off to explore the elevated city and note, several centuries ago, just about all social services were provided by religious communities, both lay and consecrated.

I go to the west side and work my way to the Cathedral at the east side, noting any gates I could use the next morning to continue onwards.

The Cathedral, dedicated to Our Lady of Laon, is marvelous.  Wikipedia tells me there was a bishop of Laon from around 500 CE until 1802 when it was translated to nearby Soissons.  Now a parish church (as is the equally magnificent Basilica of Saint Quentin 60 km to the north) is was completed about 1230.  There is much natural light and the tower at the centre of the cross shaped building was, for me, with windows at the top letting in light, an echo of the lantern tower at Ely Cathedral near Cambridge, England.

I return to the hotel and bath etc in preparation for an evening meal at the restaurant in the shadow of the west end of Notre Dame de Laon.

Mine host gives me a table to myself against one wall and the menu provides me with a degree of simplicity to choose from.  At a table against the adjoining wall are two younger and one slightly older.  As we are each finishing our meal the each of the women take out their phone and take photos of the other two.  I come across and signal them to get into a group and will take a photo.  They are pleased with the result.  As I return to my place there is tap on my shoulder: one of the younger women wants to take my photo: "thank you".  As I take up the pose the slightly older one rushes across and put her arm around my shoulders: nice one.  I write out my email address and a few moments later an email arrives with the message which I translate as "when you are in Corsica ..."

And so to bed.